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翻译：阿宅 老看经 小木匠
中国 世界五分之一人口的家园 China, home to one in five of the planets population.
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校对：深沉的爱 老看经 scgawyw
世界敬畏的超级大国，却鲜有人真正了解 The superpower the world fears, but few really know.
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后期：老看经
谭荣辉是中国菜的教父 Ken Hom is the Godfather of Chinese food.
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压制：小客
人间天堂 Heaven on Earth.
三十余年前 他把锅引入了西方 He introduced the wok to the West more than 30 years ago.
你要这样烧才行 This is the way you should be cooking it.
黄瀞亿则是下一代中餐厨师的领头人 Ching He Huang is leading the next generation of Chinese cooks...
接下来我要剁下它的头 Im just going to chop off the head.
她的烹饪手法时尚又匠心独运 ..with a modern, inventive approach to the cuisine.
这就像春日里野鸭游水嬉戏 Its like ducks playing in springtime.
我们即将开始一段绝无仅有的旅行 借由饮食走访中国 Were taking a once-in-a-lifetime adventure across China through food...
兔头 尝尝看？ Rabbit head. Shall we try one?
探寻这个古老国家最深处的灵魂 ..to delve into its heart and soul.
摔 然后拉 Bang it, pull it.
饮食 是了解中国文化最好的途径 Food is the best way to explore Chinese culture,
因为我们为食而生 because we really live to eat.
这是一场史诗般的旅程 Its an epic trip,
横跨3000英里 从东部繁华的都市 3,000 miles from the megacities of the East
到西部荒凉 被人遗忘的村落 to the forgotten villages of the Wild West.
感觉像是回到了成吉思汗时代 Its like going back to the time of Genghis Khan.
她就这样把它的头掐掉了 Shes just decapitated it!
我们会探寻熟悉的味道 秘密及惊喜… Well uncover the familiar, the secret and the surprising...
哇 我以前从未见过这样的！ Wow, Ive never seen that done before!
做一些简单却味美的菜肴 ..cook simple and delicious dishes...
这是我的川味香肠 That is my Sichuan sausage.
揭开中国过去以及现在的秘密 ..and reveal the secrets of China, old and new.
就像我梦境中一直出现的那场旅行 Its like a journey that Ive always dreamt about,
那场中国之旅 but in a China Ive dreamt about.
发现中国
美食之旅 1
为期一月的旅行中 我们将在首都北京 We're spending the first week of our month-long trip
度过一周的时间 in the capital, Beijing.
我在芝加哥长大 I was raised in Chicago,
我第一次来这的时候是上世纪80年代 and when I first came here in the 1980s,
中国刚刚对外开放 it was just beginning to open up to the West
在文革结束后 after the dark years of the Cultural Revolution.
完全无法辨认了 现在焕然一新 Unrecognisable. It's like the new frontier.
环顾四周 'Now everywhere you look,
新潮冲击着古老 'new China smashes up against the old.'
我们这次旅行 The question for both of us,
带着一个问题 on this voyage of discovery,
美食是否也受到 is to see if all this incredible pace of changes,
中国这些巨变的影响 is that going to affect food?
-恩 -有好有坏 Yeah. Good and bad.
在这我很享受现代中国的烹饪技艺 And I'd love to experience modern Chinese cookery here
是否一些传统已被破坏 and whether some of the traditions have been eroded.
这些酝酿着有趣的事情 It's a brew that will be quite interesting to see.
中国是一个矛盾体 China is a country of contradictions.
传统与革新并行 Tradition and innovation sit side by side.
这在北京尤为明显 And it's most evident here in Beijing.
位于中国的东北角落 In the northeast corner of the country,
北京做了800多年的都城 it has been the imperial capital for 800 years.
北京是春秋时期燕都蓟城 十六国时期前燕国都 金朝中都 元代大都和明 清帝都
它依然为自己有着传统的文化与美食而自豪 It remains deeply proud of its traditional culture and cuisine.
随着北京的大门为全世界敞开 As it opens up to the world,
它用一种全新的烹饪技艺揭开了这些秘密 it's revealing those secrets with a new culinary confidence.
首先将要探索中华料理的精髓—— We're beginning with the quintessential Chinese food -
面条 noodles.
它在所有的地方 都是一道朴素的家常菜 They're a humble everyday dish, eaten in all regions.
但是它在北京却有着4000年的历史 But they have a 4,000-year-old history and today in Beijing,
现在 这个古老的手艺 依然很有名望 this ancient craft is being celebrated centre stage.
难以置信 It's just incredible.
我觉得他们是从西方获得开放厨房的概念 I think they got this concept from the West, the open kitchen.
是的 壮观之至 Yes! And it's pretty spectacular.
确实 看他们干活好像看交响乐演奏 It is. Watching them work,it is like an orchestra.
我喜欢做刀削面的家伙 Like the guy with the big block that's just shaving noodles,
像拉小提琴似的 he looks like he's playing the violin.
是的 Yes!
北京汇聚了中国各路顶尖烹饪大师 'The capital is pulling in the country's best cooking talents.
这些面条大师来自北京西面的山西省 'These noodle masters are from Shanxi Province, West of Beijing,
做面条的独门功夫 'where the art of noodle making
都是世代相传的 'has been passed down through the generations.
他们以拉面著称 'They are most famous for their hand-pulled noodles, La Mian.
用小麦面和水制成 'Made from just wheat flour and water,
技巧在把握其力道 'the skill is in manipulating the dough.'
一根变两根然后拉成多根 You double it up and double again.
是的 不断地对折 Yeah. It's folding, folding on itself.
可能会很乱 关键在于均衡弹性 It could be a mess. It's about balancing the elasticity
在他把面拉长之前 before he can actually pull the noodles.
他在拉长它 现在变长了 So he's stretching that.Now stretching.
现在做的就是把面拉长再折起来 OK, what he's doing,he's pulling and folding it,
有点像小孩玩翻花绳 a little bit like how children used to play Cat's Cradle.
翻花绳比这简单多了好嘛 Cat's Cradle is a lot easier! Yeah!
好厉害 这就是我们说的长寿面 Wow, that's beautiful! That's what we call tung chow mein.
恩 Yes!
他们会做20多种不同式样的面条 'They serve 20 different types of noodles here,
这些家伙都是面条大神 'and these guys are masters of them all.'
为了精益求精 每年 To perfect the technique, every year
他一天至少练两个小时 he would do this for at least two hours a day,
整整坚持了一年半 for a year and a half.
噢 天啊 Oh, my God!
不错啊 很好 This is good! That's good!
令人吃惊 That's amazing!
就像… 面条子弹 It's like...noodle bullets! Yeah!
噢 这是某种… 给我进锅里去 Oh, OK. So it's kind of like...Get in there!
我在英国长大 做饭都是母亲在家里教的 'I was taught to cook at home by my mother growing up in England.
在中国的旅行中 'As we as we travel across China,
我越来越期待 挑战一下自己 'I'm looking forward to the challenge of cooking
用专门厨房和大火做菜 in its fiery, professional kitchens,
这里面女的很少 'where it's rare to find any women.'
我喜欢 厨房上演的混乱戏剧 I love it!The drama, the commotion, you know?
看到这样的锅很激动 Also the excitement, as you approach a wok like this,
你不知道会发生什么事 because you never know what's going to happen.
这是给锅加热的热源 This is a very intensive heat source here.
能把锅加热到超过350度 It heats up the wok to over 350 degrees.
这个很厉害 你得当心点 It's very powerful. It really keeps you on your toes
只要手一抖 菜就烧焦了 cos one second off, you could burn and destroy the whole dish.
我们在旅行中 'Throughout our trip,we'll be cooking dishes
会尝试做简单的家常菜 'simple enough to do at home.
我带了个传统的北方面条配方 'First is my take on a classic northern noodle recipe,
杂酱面 'Zha Jiang Mien.
中国版的意大利肉酱面 'It the Chinese version of spaghetti Bolognese.'
这个用肉做臊子 It's basically a meat topping,
好吃又开胃的肉臊子 a delicious savoury meat topping,
浇到面的上面 on top of delicious noodles,
你也可以放点新鲜的脆黄瓜 and sometimes you have some fresh crunchy cucumbers.
每个地方都有不同种类的臊子 'Every region has its own variation of the sauce,
但是里面基本上都会放豆瓣酱和肉末 'but the essentials are minced pork and bean paste.'
这是五花肉 中国人叫花肉 This is belly pork. The Chinese call it "hua rou"
五层的天堂 这是皮 脂肪 "five layers of heaven". You've got skin, you've got fat,
然后是瘦肉 又是脂肪 you've got meat,you've got fat again.
那个是赋予它味道的 That's what gives it flavour.
这个有点肥 我不打算用 And this bit is quite fatty, so I'm not going to use that.
哦 这个不错 很油吧 老谭 Ooh! That's the best bit! It's really oily, Ken!
我不知道 你这样认为？ 确实有点 Ohhh. I don't know, you think so? Maybe a little bit.
只是对你而言 Just for you!
我叔叔常说 无脂即无味 My uncle used to tell me,"No fat, no flavour!"
这个菜是传统干煸茄子 My dish is a classic stir-fry
用的配菜是青椒 of aubergines with mild green chillies.
我做主厨52年了 I've been chefing now for 52 years.
我11岁就开始在我叔叔的饭店工作了 I started in my uncle's restaurant when I was 11.
妈妈为了不叫我惹麻烦把我送去的 My mother sent me there to keep me out of trouble.
我先学的就是主厨厨具的用法 My first lesson was in mastering the essential tool of a Chinese chef.
在我叔叔的饭店 连个像去皮机之类的都没有 In my uncle's restaurant, there was no such thing as a vegetable peeler.
他们只有菜刀 All they had was cleavers.
你得学会怎么用它 So you either had to learn how to use it,
要不活就干不完 or you would never get your work done.
和西方的成套刀具不同 'Unlike the range of knives we have in the West,
一把菜刀就搞定了 'the cleaver blade does it all -
剁 切 割 削 所有工序 'from chopping and shredding to slicing and dicing.'
通常人们做茄子都是炸 Usually what people do with aubergine is they fry it,
我不喜欢这样做 所以… which I don't really like. So what I do...
我一般都是炖茄子 这样不会油腻 Braising it is very nice. It doesn't get it to be very oily.
我知道 瀞亿 你也不喜欢油腻的食物 And I know, Ching, you don't like it greasy and oily either.
锅里的油热了 我开始烧茄子了 'I've got my wok smoking hot, ready to stir-fry my ingredients.'
先放点姜蒜 I'm putting in some ginger and garlic.
多放点蒜 因为我喜欢蒜 Lots of garlic, because I love garlic.
放点青椒 Mild chilli peppers.
茄子 Aubergine.
放在一起炖 Stock, just to braise it.
再加点酱油 Little bit of soy sauce.
关键是掌握火候 'The key to wok cooking is controlling the heat.
火焰和炒锅之间跳起曼妙的舞蹈 'It's a delicate dance between the flame and the wok
来控制好油的温度 'to control the temperature of the oil.
这种技艺叫做【锅味】 意思就是锅的气息 'This skill is called wok hei, meaning "breath of the wok".
接着 放入漂水后的刀削面 'Next, in go the blanched, knife-cut noodles.'
再放点葱 Some spring onions. Yes, that's it.
淋点辣椒油 And a little drizzle of their fragrant chilli oil.
再等几分钟就可以出锅了 'It cooks for another minute, and it's ready to serve.'
看起来太棒了 That looks bloody good!
我喜欢你做的菜的样子 I love the look of your dish.
看着很丰盛 烟雾缭绕 You know, it's rich, it's smoky.
可以辨别出它的锅味 炒锅的气息 You can tell it has wok hei,the breath of the wok, all over it.
是的 Yes!
现在该我了 'Now it's my turn at the wok,
做杂酱面臊子 'making my Zha Jiang Mein Sauce.'
在热油里放点葱姜蒜 In with the garlic, ginger, leeks,
四川的辣椒 Sichuan pepper in the hot oil,
还有五花肉 together with the belly pork.
再放点料酒 And then in with little bit of wine.
少许甜面酱 豆瓣酱 Little bit of this tian mian jiang, sweet bean paste.
甜面酱是京菜的关键之处 'Tian Mian Jiang is a key ingredient in Beijing cooking.
这是一种混合着小麦粉 豆瓣酱 'It's a wheat-flour fermented soybean paste,
糖以及调味料的混合物 'with sugar and spices.'
再加一点料 上等猪肉和鸡肉 And a little bit of good stock.Good quality pork and chicken stock.
搅拌一下食材 要不就糊了 'Keep stirring the ingredients so they don't burn.
臊子里放的糖成了焦糖 'The sugars in the sauces will caramelize,
可以使猪肉脆甜 'giving the pork a sweet, crispy edge.
这个火很给力 'This wok burner is so intense,
几分钟就把猪肉炸好了 'it only takes a couple of minutes to crisp up the pork.
通常需要４分钟 'Usually, it would need about four.
再配上拉面 'I'm serving it with hand-pulled noodles.'
哦 很厉害嘛 Wow! Oh, beautiful!
面条 已经做好了 Noodles, once they're cooked,
就要稍微搅动一下 you need to loosen them up a little bit,
我准备放芝麻油和辣椒油拌一下 so I'm going to toss them in this sesame oil and chilli oil.
这个不是传统的杂酱面风格 This is not traditional zha jiang mein style,
是我自创的 but this my twist on it.
在上面放上黄瓜萝卜 Just on the top, I'm putting cucumber, radish.
浇上好吃的臊子 And then with that delicious meat sauce on top,
就倍儿好吃 which has got a lot of flavour.
再放点香油 And then some of this sort of savoury oil on top.
为了美观 放点花点缀 And then just some flowers, for beauty.
哦 生菜 和丰富的酱以及面条 Oh, raw vegetables. It gives a nice contrast
有了一个很好的对比 to the richness of the sauce and the noodles.
非常好吃 Bloody good!
恩 真不错 Mmm, the aubergine is delicious!
有点烧烤味道 烧烤的味道 It's got that kind of barbeque-y flavour. Barbeque grill flavour.
炖的很充分 It's been tossed well.
噢 Oh!
不仅像面条一样的传统中国菜 It's not just the classics of Chinese cuisine, like noodles,
被展示出来 that are being showcased.
街边小吃也也愈富光泽 时尚现代 Street food is also getting a shiny, modern makeover.
王府井夜市在北京市中心 Wanfujang Night Market is bang in the city centre.
传统美食都摆在 Traditional food stalls sit alongside
豪华饭店和购物中心旁边 luxury hotels and shopping malls.
香蕉 Banana!
我不要 谢谢 我喜欢那个 No, thank you! I love it!
他们以前都不说英语的 我知道 They used to never speak English! I know!
小吃作为北京人日常生活的一部分已经几百年了 Xaiochi, or "small eats",were very much part of the Beijing life for centuries,
小吃店遍及每个角落 with vendors on every corner.
2008年奥运会为了市容美观 But as part of the major clean-up for the 2008 Olympics,
他们都搬走了 they were moved off the streets,
现在都按照规定经营 统一制服 and now operate in regulated and uniformed places like this.
这是蒸煎包 Now, this is zhen jin bao. Zhen jin bao. Oh!
当提起北京的时候 这个就是我所想到的 When I think about Beijing, this is exactly what I think about.
包子类似于小圆面包 The bao type of bun.
噢 好辣 Ooh, that's spicy!
多少钱 How much do I owe you?
噢 涨价了 Wow! Prices have gone up.
-哇 以前很便宜啊 要十块钱 就这个！ Wow, they used to be very cheap here.10 Yuan - that's ? - for this!
-你瞎扯的吧 -不 这太贵了 You're joking! You're joking!No, it's expensive.
噢 简直就是打劫 Wow. It's highway robbery.
这是个好地方 就是东西贵了点 'Despite the prices,this is a great place
不过在这能吃到中国各地小吃 'to get a bite-sized taste of China,with foods from every region.
中国人以什么都吃闻名 'The Chinese are known for eating EVERYTHING,
尤其是像我这样的广东人 'especially Cantonese Chinese like me.'
呃 怎么刚提起就出现它了 不 Oh, now... Now we're talking! Oh, no!
噢 不 No, no, no, no, no!
我想吃那个蝎子 I'd like a small scorpion.
吃蟋蟀如何 好极 Let's have a cricket. Yes!
蟋蟀 A cricket?!
呃 Eurgh!
嗯 Mmm!
吃到中间内脏时 肉多吗 Is it meaty right in the middle? - It's not meaty.
吃起来像炸薯条 It's like eating a fried piece of crisp.
我喜欢吃内脏 也喜欢凤爪之类的… I do love offal, and I do love things like chicken's feet...
我喜欢那个 所有的这些 像鸭舌这种 I love that...and all these traditional...You know, duck's tongue.
我算不上真正的中国人 因为我不是啥都吃 But I can't be really Chinese,because I don't eat everything!
-肠胃决定一切 -对啊 My stomach dictates who I really am.Yeah.
在北京时尚现代的面孔下 Beneath the modern face of the capital,
也存在着一些不为人知的小地方 there are small pockets of the city,
几个世纪以来几乎没有改变 where it seems little has changed for centuries
依然很传统 and there is still a strong sense of tradition.
景山公园在紫禁城的荫蔽下 Jingshan Park is in the shadow of the Forbidden City,
故宫作为皇帝居住之所 the Imperial Palace that was home to China's emperors
已经有500年之久 for 500 years.
每天早饭前 Every morning before breakfast,
人们聚在一起讨论日常事物 people meet for their daily routines.
我曾练过一阵 但想到年纪未到只好作罢 I took classes for a while.I thought I was too young for it!
或许现在我得重新开始了 Maybe I'll get back into it now.
对于我俩来说 这个旅行是纯粹的个人行为 For both Ching and I,this trip is deeply personal.
我们想探寻我们和故土的羁绊之情 We want to understand more about our relationship with our homeland.
即使我在美国长大 我也在很小的时候 Even though I was raised in America, I've been connected to China
通过食物和中国紧密相连 through food from a very early age.
我八个月大的时候父亲过世 My father passed away when I was eight months old
母亲在芝加哥的唐人街抚养我长大 and my mother brought me up in Chicago's Chinatown.
我在满是华人的氛围中成长 I grew up in a Chinese bubble cos I didn't see any other people
除了中国人没见过其他人 except Chinese people.
我们只吃中国菜看华语电影 We only ate Chinese food,we went to see Chinese movies
我们只说汉语 and we only spoke Chinese.
也就是广东话 Cantonese, that is.
我成长在一个很艰难的时代里 The era I grew up in,
作为美国的少数族群 it was very difficult to be a minority in America.
我们经常被嘲笑或被无视 You were either made fun of or you didn't exist
中国就就像遥远的梦 and China was like a dream.
梦幻之境 Like a fantasy.
那是紧握的希望 我为我的华人身份而自豪 That was the life raft I clung to,to be proud of my identity.
1983年我回到故土 When I finally made it to the homeland in 1983,
眼前已不是我想象中的中国 it was not the China I imagined.
它仍旧带着上世纪六七十年代 It was still emerging from the trauma of the Cultural Revolution
文革动荡造成的创伤 of the 1960s and '70s.
当时我就震惊了 I was pretty appalled.
中国好像倒退了50年 It was as if China was almost 50 years behind.
我不敢相信 I just couldn't believe it.
在北京 毛主席为彻底清除 In Beijing, traditional food culture was nearly wiped out
走资派和右倾错误危害国家 as a result of Chairman Mao's communist ideals
中国传统的饮食文化几乎绝迹 to rid the country of bourgeois influence.
饭店只好关门大吉 Red Guards shut down restaurants and burnt recipe books.
大量厨师离开中国 或私下保留厨艺 A lot of chefs left China, or else they kept their art secret.
换句话说 他们就不在公共场合做菜了 In other words, they didn't practise it any more in public.
但一旦学会做菜 就永远不会忘记这门手艺 But, you know, once you cook,you can never forget how to cook.
当改革来临时 And when the reforms came,
这些人走出厨房 all these people came out of their kitchens
又开始烹饪 and started cooking again.
为了解传统烹饪怎样一直持续下去 To see how traditional cooking is being kept alive,
瀞亿和我被引到一家胡同里的 Ching and I are headed to a backstreet restaurant
背街餐馆 in one of the hutong districts,old neighbourhoods
残酷的现代化中幸存下来的老居民区 that have survived the city's often brutal modernisation.
看起来…十分隐蔽 你确定是这里吗 This looks...quite dodgy. Are you sure it's here?
我们要去见一位改革开放后 We're meeting a chef who returned
回到首都的厨师 to the capital after the reforms.
我想他负责维护着的 He's been responsible for preserving what, I think,
就是北京最经典的烹饪传统 北京烤鸭 is Beijing's greatest culinary tradition, Peking duck.
瀞亿 我想在我一生中也许已经烹饪了一万只烤鸭 Ching, I think in my lifetime I've cooked, perhaps, 10,000 ducks.
一万！ - 是的 我想看看烤鸭的传统做法 10,000! Yes. I'd like to see how they make them, traditionally.
- 在这里？ -是的 In here? Yes.
你好 你好 你好 Ni hao. Ni hao. Ni hao.
张利群厨师和他的女儿经营着 'Chef Li Chin has turned his family home of 50 years
由50年的自家房舍改建而成的餐馆 'into this restaurant,which he runs with his daughter.
北京烤鸭之于中国正如香槟之于法国 'Peking duck is to the Chinese what champagne is to France,
北京正是其发祥地 'and Beijing is its birthplace.
其历史可以追溯到13世纪的元代 'It dates back to the Yuan Dynasty of the 13th century
当时它是皇帝用膳的贡品 'when it was reserved exclusively for the Emperor's table.'
北京烤鸭的秘密是表皮酥脆 Well, the secret of Peking duck is it has to be crispy skin,
不含油脂 鸭肉温润 no fat and moist meat.
如果没有这些 那就不能叫北京烤鸭 And if you don't have that,it's not Peking duck.
利群师傅已经学习了这门七百年之久的 Chef Li Chin has studied the 700-year-old techniques
宫廷厨艺 of the Imperial Court kitchens.
首先最重要的是从脂肪上分离出表皮 The first step is most important -to separate the skin from the fat.
皮可以充气膨胀 这样在烘烤时 It can inflate, so that when it roasts,
当脂肪融化时 皮可以单独地在空气层中烘烤 the skin can roast separately in this layer of air while the fat melts.
呈现并保持鸭肉的润泽 And renders. And renders and keeps the meat moist. Hm.
这就是北京烤鸭的秘密 That's the secret of Peking duck.
做到这点就要使用打气筒 我总这样做 And how I do it is use a bicycle pump. Hm. I've always...
这很容易 一瞬间就完成了 It's really easy to do and it does it instantly.
真酷 It's quite a cool thing.
但利群师傅是“传统方法总是最好”的坚定信徒 'But Chef Li Chin is a firm believer that the old ways are best.'
他这样…吹气进去 吹气吹进去 Oh, he does it by... Yeah, blowing into it. ..blowing into it. Wow.
哇 我之前从未这样做过 Wow, I've never seen that done before,
用嘴巴吹 by a mouth.
北京烤鸭 一种有着白色羽毛的绿头鸭 The Peking duck, it's a type of Mallard duck with white feathers.
品种很重要 因为鸭皮的缘故 The species is important because of the skin.
这就是皮肤很重要的原因 This is why the skin is very important.
你不能用其它的鸭子品种 You can't use any type of duck,
必须是这种鸭子才行 it has to be this type of duck that works.
可以充分膨胀 脂肪含量也刚好 It can inflate better and it's the amount of fat that it has in it.
但在中国有一个新的健康意识 But in a new health-conscious China,
对低脂禽类有一个不断增长的需求 there's a growing demand for a less fatty bird.
现在超过一半的北京烤鸭是一种超低脂品种的 Now over half of the ducks consumed are reared from a super lean breed
从英国引进的北京鸭子 of Peking chick imported from England.
内脏剔除之后 开水 With the entrails removed,boiling water
和糖浆浇透鸭子全身 让皮收紧 and sugar syrup are poured over the duck to tighten the skin.
悬挂晾干四个小时 然后准备烘烤 It's hung up to dry for four hours and then it's ready to roast.
感觉就像羊皮纸 那样干燥是必不可少的 It feels like parchment paper.It's essential that it's that dry.
一小时 一小时 One hour. One hour! Hour.
火焰上的鸭子 Duck over the flame.
而且…噢！ And...ooh!
-真美 -很美 不是吗 -噢 太漂亮了 That is beautiful. Beautiful,isn't it? Oh, it is so beautiful.
我想这赋予了它 就像… 有了一种水果味 I suppose it gives it, like, a...It's got a lovely fruit flavour.
80年代当我来到北京 我吃过北京烤鸭 When I came to Beijing in the '80s,I had Peking duck.
感到很失望 于是我进入厨房 I was very disappointed.And I went into the kitchen,
有很多不专业的年轻厨师 and there were a lot of young chefs who did not have his expertise and knowledge.
这个男人充满激情 - 谢谢你 This man is passionate. Thank you.
谢谢 Thank you.
利群厨师的激情不仅在文革中得以幸存 Chef Li Chin's passion has survived not only the Cultural Revolution -
他为挽救餐馆而奋力抗争 he battled to save his restaurant
当有400年历史的老居民区面临 when the 400-year-old neighbourhood
为了建设新公寓而被拆迁的威胁时 was threatened with demolition to make way for new apartment living.
只有三分之一的北京胡同仍然存在 Only a third of Beijing's hutongs still exist,
这里的生活条件可以是相当原始的 and the living conditions here can be pretty primitive.
-你的厕所体验如何 -这是公共厕所 How was your loo experience?It's communal.
天啊 毫无隐私可言 God, there was no privacy.
-真的吗？ -真的 没有隔离 -噢 上帝啊！ -一点也没 Really? No. No segregation.Oh, my God! At all.
-在这里真是人人平等 -没错 Everyone's equal here. Right!
经过一个多小时的烘烤 我们得鸭子可以吃了 After an hour of roasting,our duck is ready to eat.
-哇！我可以闻到…闻起来很香有烟熏味 Wow! I can smell...It smells lovely and smoky.
-你看到水汽蒸腾而出吗？ Can you see all the steam coming out?
-从中间切开 -看那鸭皮 Slice it the middle.Look at that skin!
噢 我开始口水横流了 Oh. My mouth is watering like crazy.
如何享用烤鸭 地球人都知道 'The ritual is familiar to people all over the world.
一点点甜面酱 几片烤鸭肉 'A dab of sweet bean sauce,a couple of slices of duck,
小葱和黄瓜 'spring onion and cucumber,
全部被包裹进一张极薄的煎饼 'all wrapped in a wafer-thin pancake.'
嗯！ Mmm!
美味可口 That is delicious.
香气扑鼻 It's aromatic,
多汁 皮很酥脆 it's juicy, the skin is crispy.
我在全世界吃了这么多的北京烤鸭 I've eaten so many Peking ducks all over the world,
但是这才是正宗的总店 but this is the mothership.
谢谢 Thank you.
-就像一部人生的传奇 -正是 It's like a human epic... It is.
…他历尽千难万险来到此地 ..that he's gone through all thishardship to arrive here.
这就是我们的故事 And this is our story.
我认为他体现了很多很多中国的品质 And I think he embodies very much what China is about.
-并不是一味抱怨 -不是 -而是向前看 -是的 It's not about complaining. No.It's about looking forward. Yeah.
-别回头 -是的 没错 Don't look back. Yeah, yeah.
我们已在首都待了几天 We've been in the capital for a couple of days,
我们开始欣赏北京人的精神 and we're starting to appreciate the spirit of the Beijingers.
北京坐落于中国的北方 暴露于严酷寒冷之冬 Being in the north of the country,Beijing is exposed to some harsh, cold winters.
-戴上帽子暖和了吗 老谭？ -是的 戴上很暖和 Are you warm with a hat on, Ken?Yeah, I'm very warm with the hat on.
- 希望我也有一顶！ -真的？你有头发 而我没有 I wish I got one as well! Really?Oh, you have hair! I don't.
当地人靠丰盛而舒适的食物渡过严冬 The locals survive it on a diet of hearty comfort food.
我们将要和他们一起享用传统早餐 And we're joining them for a traditional breakfast.
闻起来很不错 噢 这是我喜欢的那种食物 Smells really good.Aw, this is the kind of food I love!
-无与伦比！ -感觉就像在学校食堂 哇 Oh, fantastic! I feel like we're at a school cafeteria. Wow!
不吃包子你就不该来北京 You can't come to Beijing without eating a baozi.
-这是猪肉韭菜馅 -是的 This is the pork and leek one. Yes.
嗯！简直就是人间天堂 Mm-mmm! This is heaven on Earth.
里面汤汁很多 It's so juicy inside.
嗯！面还有点甜味 Mmm!And the bread is slightly sweet.
面团必须有枕形纹理 And the dough has to have that pillowy texture about it.
蒸熟之后 就像松软的云彩 It's steamed,just like fluffy clouds.
-美味 -吃起来甘甜爽滑 -恩! It's delicious.It's actually like eating almost sweet nothingness. Mmm! Mmm!
包子有咸味或者甜味的馅料 Baozi have savoury or sweet fillings,
全国各地都找得到的街头小吃 and are found across the country as street snacks.
在北京 有一种特殊的吃法 In Beijing,there's a unique way of eating them.
他们用这些东西配包子 比如 肠…汤 汤 They serve the baozi with this, like, an intestine... Soup. ..soup.
像蒜汤 相当浓稠 Like a garlicy soup, quite starchy.
里面有肠 是的 And inside there's intestine. Yeah.
当地人似乎吃不厌 怎么会吃厌呢？ The locals can't seem to get enough of it, so why not?
嗯 Mmm.
我之前从未吃过包裹着如此浓汁的包子 I've never had baozis with, like,a rich soup like that before.
非常地北京味 恩 Very Beijing-y. Mm.
包子是品种繁多的“饺子”家族重要的一员 Baozi are part of the extensive dumpling family,
褶边包裹的美味 pleated parcels of deliciousness
作为中国美食的核心已经600年了 that have been at the heart of Chinese cuisine for 600 years.
在首都的高档餐厅 In the capital's high-end restaurants,
烹饪荣誉感已经达到了一种狂热迷恋的程度 culinary pride has been taken to levels of fanatical obsession.
厨房俨如工厂的生产线 Kitchens are like factory production lines,
每天按照标准生产数以万计的饺子 producing thousands of dumplings a day to rulebook standards.
对我来说 这永远不会和自制饺子的简单快乐相较 For me, this is never going to compete with the simple pleasure of a home-cooked dumpling.
为完善技术 我们现在要返回水饺学校 To perfect our techniques,we're going back to dumpling school.
南锣鼓巷 北京胡同的一部分 It is in Nanluoguxiang, one of the hutong areas
这里不是被拆迁而是被保护并涅槃而生 that instead of being bulldozed are now being protected and regenerated
政府开始认识到它们的文化和商业价值 as the government begins to recognise both their cultural and commercial value.
看看这里 看看这里 那是旧式胡同人家 Look through there.Look through there,that's the old-style hutong home.
老院子的房子变身精品商店 'The old courtyard houses are being turned into boutique shops
和咖啡吧 表现出一种集体归属感 'and cafe bars, which is showing a sense of community that was central
这便是数世纪胡同生活的核心 'to hutong life for centuries.'
-事实上 通常我的方向感很好 那是个死胡同 -嗯 Actually, normally,I'm quite good at directions, that's a dead end. Yes.
-我们要敲每家每户的门么 -我可不这么想 Shall we just knock on every door? No, I don't think so.
学校教授传统的家常菜给日益增长的西方人 'The school teaches traditional home-style cooking to the growing number of Westerners
以及搬回中国的海外华人 'and overseas Chinese moving to China.
经营者是一位美籍华人美食作家刘金玲 'It's run by Chinese American food writer Jen Lin-Lui...'
（嗨） ALL: Hi.
…12年前来到这里重寻自己的根 '..who came here to reconnect with her roots 12 years ago.
学校的饺子大师是土生土长的北京人 'The school's dumpling master is a native Beijinger,
他有一个耐人寻味的名字“王董事长” 'with the intriguing name Chairman Wang.'
你好 这是王董 Hello. This is Chairman Wang.
我从王董这里学会了烹饪技术 I learned how to cook from Chairman Wang.
当我就读烹饪学校时她是我的烹饪老师 She was my cooking teacher when I went to a local cooking school.
我们包了很多饺子 所以我们成了朋友 We made dumplings a lot.That's how we became friends.
我们正在做经典的北京饺子 饺子 'We're making the classic Beijing dumpling, Jiaozi.
传统上 家庭成员一起会包饺子过年 'Traditionally, families make them together for the Chinese New Year.
首先我们要做用来做饺子皮儿的面团 'We start with a dough for the dumpling skins.'
面粉和冷水比例二比一 Two-parts flour and one part cold water.
你可以跳过这步 购买现成的饺子皮 'You can skip this part and buy ready-made wrappers
但自己动手才是最好的 而且在王董的厨房里 'but it's great to make your own,and in Chairman Wang's kitchen,
没有任何捷径 'there aren't any shortcuts.'
和她的比起来 事实上这还不够硬 Compared to hers,this is not hard enough, actually.
只需要添加更多的 更多的面粉 You basically just want to add more flour in there. More flour.
-我害怕问她多大年纪了 -不 不 别那样 I'm too afraid to ask how old she is. No, no, you never do that.
你可以问她 You can ask her.
她说 你觉得我多大了 She said,"How old do you think I am?"
面团放20分钟 我们开始做馅儿 'The dough rests for 20 minutes, and we start on the filling -
熏豆腐和香菇 切成小块 'smoked tofu and shiitake mushrooms, finely diced.
我们还可以加入米粉 切碎的胡萝卜和香菜 'We're also adding rice noodles,chopped carrot and coriander.'
她放入黄色豆沙混合物 She's got here a mixture of yellow bean paste
以及甜面酱 and also tian mian jiang,
甜面酱是小麦面粉糊 然后搅拌 which is that wheat flour paste, to bind it together.
甜面酱是北京烤鸭薄饼的调料 'Tian mian jiang is the sauce used in Peking duck pancakes
和海鲜酱类似 'and is similar to hoisin sauce.'
加入少许老抽 酱油是咸的 We're adding a little dark soy sauce. The light soy sauce is saltier,
老抽增添了更多的质地和色彩 the dark soy sauce adds a bit more texture and colour.
我还记得我们和祖母一起做饭 包饺子 I remember us cooking with my grandmother, making dumplings.
那样一个社交场合 实际上 It's such a social occasion, actually,
但我年龄太小而难以真正学到 but I was too small to really learn at such a young age
但是还记得这种切菜的声音 but I could hear the sound of this chopping
然后她和我姑奶奶围坐在一起 and then her and my great-aunt sitting round,
她们会家长里短的闲谈 诉说邻里之事 they used to gossip and talk about the neighbour next door.
很美妙 It's wonderful.
随着现代化的不断推进 尤其是在北京 With all this modernisation going on, especially here in Beijing,
有多少仍然会在家里做 to what extent is this still being done in homes?
我认为这些还会在家里做 但会越来越少 It is being done in homes still but less and less, I'd say.
很费时间 尤其是你要想都做对 It's time-consuming, especially if you want to do them right.
所有事你都要重头开始做 You make everything from scratch.
现在开始做饺子皮 Now it's onto the dumpling skins.
用你手心把它压成土堆那种形状 The hollowed bit in your palm at the centre makes that mound, that shape.
中间厚两边薄 It's kind of fat in the middle and sloping on the side.
擀面杖一直贴着砧板 The rolling pin never leaves the board.
你只需要用手一直重复动作 You're just doing this repetitive motion with this hand
并用另一只手转动饺子皮 and turning with the other hand.
要判断是否制作出一张好的饺子皮 To judge whether you've made a really good dumpling skin,
你知道在宫廷里 如果你把皮做的够薄 you know in the Imperial Courts, if you made the skin really thin
你还可以在它后面阅读报纸 that you could still read a newspaper behind it,
这样你就有了一张完美无缺 薄若蝉翼的饺子皮 you knew you had the perfect thinness of skin.
接下来 我们要包馅儿并把皮捏在一起封好 Next we fill and seal the dumplings.
在中国农历新年 有一种将硬币包入饺子的传统 At Chinese New Year, it's the tradition to hide coins inside
发现的人则是有福之人 and the one who finds them is blessed with good fortune.
这是最简单的方式 你只需要按住并封口即可 This is the easy way. You just press and seal it.
你需要一侧有平滑的弧线 另一侧则是褶皱边 You want a smooth circle on one side and the pleats on the other side
一个好的饺子的标志是立而不动 and a good dumpling is one that sits down and doesn't tip over.
烹饪饺子有两种方式 We're cooking the dumplings two ways,
第一种是煮15分钟 the first is simply boiling for 15 minutes.
第二种则是香煎 我最喜欢的方式 The second is pan seared,my favourite.
这很棒 因为会产生蒸汽 This is great because this creates steam
而正因为蒸汽 让底端变得香脆 and because of the steam, it's crispy on the bottom.
和蒸汽一起烹调 And it cooks with the steam.
所以需要加水 So you want to fill the water
直到淹没饺子大约三分之二的高度 about two-thirds the way to the dumpling top.
为了得到底部香脆可口的饺子 加一勺油 To get a delicious crispy bottom on your dumpling, add a ladle of oil.
加入生姜和花椒 With ginger and Sichuan pepper.
-香油 -香油 Fragrant oil. Fragrant oil.
哇 真漂亮 Wow! Beautiful.
看起来不错 That looks so good.
你不知道那些饺子对我意味着什么 看看吧 You don't understand what that means to me right there, looking at it.
-就像家里一样 -就像家里一样 It's like home. It's like home.
如果饺子皮很厚 吃起来就很有嚼劲 If the dumpling skin is too thick,it's too chewy.
如果太薄 饺子将会破损 If it's too thin,the dumpling will break.
这些看起来刚刚好 These look spot on. Oh...
北方吃饺子的经典方法 The classic way to eat dumplings in the north,
是蘸上小麦粉醋和辣椒油 is dipped in wheat flour vinegar and chilli oil.
事实上北京人也喜欢大蒜切片 And actually Beijingers also like raw pieces of garlic.
用力咀嚼 They munch on those.
-你们想要一些吗？ -今晚我不打算亲吻任何人了 Do you guys want some of that?I don't plan to kiss anyone tonight.
我可以吃 I might as well.
哇 Wow!
我尝到了胡萝卜的甜味 I can taste the sweetness of the carrot
和熏豆腐的质感 and the texture of that smoked tofu.
如此细腻滋润 It's so delicate and moist.
让人感动！ Sensational!
- 恩 - 恩 Mmm. Mmm.
大师级作品 This is masterful.
毫无疑问 她是北京的饺子宗师 Hands down, she's dumpling master of Beijing.
和王董一起烹饪把我思绪带回到 Cooking with Chairman Wang's brought back memories
台湾我祖母农场的厨房里 of being in the kitchen of my grandmother's farm in Taiwan,
在那里我度过了我的童年 where I spent my early childhood.
三年前她过世了 She passed on three years ago
我来到寺庙里向她表达我的敬意 and I've come to a Buddhist temple to pay my respects to her.
我的祖父祖母在我两岁时就照顾我 My grandparents looked after me from a very young age, from about two.
父母则忙于工作 Both my parents were really busy working, trying to,
竭力谋生 抚养家庭 er, make a living.
我对食物的记忆全部都来源于 My memories of food actually all come from
早年在农场的生活 those very early years of living on that farm.
我们并不富裕 但每天都充满快乐 We didn't have very much but every day was so much fun.
台湾岛位于中国南部外海 The island of Taiwan is off the south coast of China
仍然充满争议 and is disputed territory.
在我五岁时父母便外出工作 我们先到达了南非 My parents left for work when I was five and we travelled first
接着在我11岁时定居在了英国 to South Africa and then England where we settled when I was 11.
在我成长的岁月里 我不希望自己是中国人 When I was growing up I didn't want to be Chinese,
我想成为英国人 我想成为任何人但非中国人 I wanted to be English. I wanted to be everything that was not Chinese.
父母逼我每周日去中文学校 My father forced me to go to Chinese school every Sunday
还要为父亲做中国菜 and I had to cook Chinese food for my dad.
我非常反感 我讨厌做饭 I resented that and I hated cooking.
但随着岁月流逝 Erm, but only as the years have gone by
事实上 我身上唯一留下的中国烙印 that, actually, that's the only Chinese part of me
是烹饪和食物 that remained, was the cooking bit and the food.
通过它 我现在欣赏中国文化 Through it,I now appreciate Chinese culture
而且我发现我自己 通过食物 and I'm finding myself,through food,
开始更多的了解我来自何方 我是谁 and beginning to understand more of where I'm from and who I am.
这趟旅程很重要 因为它给予了我 This journey is so important because it gives me
一个机会真正更深入到中国烹饪 学习更多 a chance to really delve deeper into Chinese cooking, just to learn more.
既是西方人又是中国人的我 在别人家里 Being as Western as I am Chinese,it's pretty challenging
烹饪地道的美食是一种相当的挑战 cooking authentic food for people in their homes, especially
尤其在一些城市外最传统的地方 in some of the most traditional places outside of the cities.
我想看看人们吃什么 耕种什么 I want to see what people are eating, what are they farming?
看看平凡的生活是什么样的 如果在中国还有 Just see what ordinary life is, if there's such a thing
所谓的平凡生活 因为它发展太快了 as ordinary life in China any more because it's so developed.
在过去的二十年中 超过一亿人 In the last 20 years,over 100 million people
离开村庄到 have left their villages to find
如雨后春笋般成长的大城市打工 work in the mega-cities springing up all over China.
很奇怪 不是吗 It is strange, isn't it,
因为你看到了周围都是荒弃的小镇 because you've got deserted towns dotted around.
没有生机 There's no life.
像一座鬼城 Like a ghost town.
我离开北京走了两小时 I'm travelling two hours out of Beijing.
向西走90公里是爨底下村 90 kilometres to the west is Chuandixia.
爨底下村是一座有400年历史的村落 Chuandixia is a 400-year-old village.
它曾是一个繁荣的农庄 It used to be a thriving farming community.
现在 仅仅还剩下100个村民 Now, only 100 villagers remain.
我与韩先生韩夫人住在一起 他们已经在这里生活了几代 I'm staying with Mr and Mrs Han,whose family have lived here for generations.
我想只有三代 I thought it was just three generations,
但他说有13代了 but he says 13 generations.
韩家人经营着一家家庭旅馆 The Hans run a homestay.
就像B&B旅馆 让人尝试正在快速消失的 These are like B&Bs that offer a taste of rural peasant life
农民生活的滋味 that's fast disappearing.
他们很受新兴城市中产阶级的欢迎 They're popular with the new,urban middle classes
他们想逃离城市去体验中国的往昔 who want to escape the city and experience a China of the past.
就是它 So this is it.
这是个四合院 属于他的家庭 It's a courtyard home and it all belongs to his family.
很美妙 真的感觉像时光倒转了数载 This is wonderful. I feel like I really have stepped back in time.
家庭住宿体验的中心就是 Central to the home-stay experience is the home-cooked meal
用自家种植的蔬菜烹制的菜肴 with home-grown vegetables.
我希望能从韩夫人那里学做一些传统乡村菜 I'm hoping to learn some traditional country recipes from Mrs Han.
她要教我做玉米面煎饼 She's going to teach me how to make cornmeal pancakes.
玉米面煎饼相当于他们的日常面包 Cornmeal pancakes are the equivalent of their daily bread.
当我有不明白的地方 When I don't understand something,
因为我的中文不是很好 她就提高了嗓门 because my Chinese isn't great,she tends to raise her voice.
她是一个真正的人物 She's a real character.
实际上 我很害怕在她厨房里做饭 I'm actually quite scared to cook in her kitchen.
让我把这个说完 这是玉米… Let me just finish explaining this. This is corn...
她说 别打开 She said, "Don't open it."
她说 别急 She said, "Don't be in such a hurry."
韩夫人似乎对陌生人进入厨房感到有点紧张 Mrs Han seems a little nervous of strangers in her kitchen
但我说服她可以在严格监督下 让我一起来做饭 but I persuade her to let me share the woking,under strict supervision.
这是切片的猪肉 This is slices of pork.
我们正在烹制 野生蘑菇炒猪肉 We're making a stir-fry of pork and wild mushrooms.
放入植物油 花椒 You've got vegetable oil,Sichuan flour pepper,
还有一些生姜在锅里爆炒 you've got some ginger and you explode it in the wok.
我们管它叫 爆香 爆发的香味 We call it Bal Shang,explode fragrance.
她放了一些猪肉 She's added slices of pork.
在夏天 他们从山上采来野生蘑菇 In the summer, they pick mushrooms from the mountains
把它们冷冻到新鲜食材缺乏的冬季 and freeze them for winter months when fresh food is scarce.
她说 别看它样子可怕 但其实很好 She said don't worry about the look of it, it's really good.
倒进锅里一起炒 Stir-fry that together.
牡蛎或栗蘑也可以替代之 A good substitute would be oyster or chestnut mushrooms.
然后加一点老抽上色 Then she's added a little bit of dark soy sauce for colour,
让肉上色 to colour the meat.
还要再放一点大蒜 She's also put in a little bit of garlic,
多一点小葱 and a bit more spring onion at the end.
还行 Just OK.
看起来吝啬而喜怒无常 It looks mean and moody.
有点像大厨 A bit like the chef!
韩夫人是把东西做到极致方面的专家 Mrs Han's an expert in making a little go a long way.
她正用花椒叶做一种天妇罗 She's using the leaves of a pepper plant to make a kind of tempura.
天妇罗：日式料理中的油炸食品 将新鲜鱼虾和蔬菜 裹上浆 油炸至金黄色
噢 这是四川花椒叶 Oh, this is Sichuan pepper leaves.
她把鸡蛋及面粉和匀后炸 She's put it in egg and wheat flour and she's deep frying it.
用菠菜或者甘蓝菜亦达到相同效果 This would work equally well with spinach or kale.
很美妙 不是吗 Wonderful, isn't it?
吃饭之前 韩先生准备了我夜晚的住处 Before we eat, Mr Han prepares my sleeping accommodation for the night.
它大致上就是床底下的木火 It's basically a wood fire under your bed
床下传来的热量会让床铺暖和无比 and the heat from that will just warm the bed.
工作原理就像老式风格的电热毯 It works like an electric blanket but old school style.
恩 Mmm.
韩夫人做了可口的蘑菇 Mrs Han made with that delicious mushroom.
猪肉和蘑菇 恩 Pork and mushroom. Mmm.
家庭旅馆每年虽然只给韩先生一家 Whilst the homestay gives the Hans
带来大约4000英镑的收入 a small income of around 4,000 a year,
重要的是 他们似乎以和客人分享 above all they seem proud to share their traditional way
传统生活方式而感到自豪 of life with their guests.
她是个身板很硬的女士 She's a tough lady.
就像全国的很多村庄一样 Like many villages across the country,
爨底下村见证了大多数年轻人离开家乡 Chuandixia has seen most of the younger generation up sticks.
30年前 只有五分之一的人居住在城市 30 years ago, just one in five people lived in urban areas.
现在 全国的一半人口是城市居民 Now, half of the country's population are city dwellers.
这是历史上最大的迁徙运动 It's been the biggest migration in history.
北京现在居住着2000万人口 Beijing is now home to 20 million.
绵延的城市框架是伦敦的十倍 It sprawls for over ten times the size of London
以及密密麻麻的郊区 with densely packed suburbs.
我将与我的朋友 美食作家红英会面 I'm meeting up with my friend,and food writer, Hong Ying,
一个乡下姑娘 现在居住在精致的朝阳公园附近 a country girl who now lives in the chic district of Chaoyang Park.
这是一个当地市场 我们要买菜做饭的地方 This is her local market,where we're shopping for dinner.
种类齐全 让人震惊 The variety, I find astonishing.
这个东西是美国的 This is from America?
这些从西方进口的东西放在一起很有趣啊 It's an interesting mix of Western imports.
看看他们这的东西 这是布鲁塞尔的包菜 Look what they have here,Brussels sprouts.
这些是中国人最喜欢吃的东西——肘子 猪蹄 牛蹄 And Chinese favourites - eels,pig trotters and cows' hooves.
那是啥啊 What's that?
噢 那是菜花 我以前都没见过它呀 Oh, it's called cucumber flower,I've never even seen it.
我想买些鸡翅 I'm thinking about these chicken wings.
文化革命使红英的童年生活 Hong Ying's life has changed dramatically
发生了翻天覆地的改变 since her childhood during the Cultural Revolution.
农村的食品一直很短缺 In the countryside,there were severe food shortages
按家里的人口配给口粮 and families were rationed.
当时正在长身体 很少有肉吃 When you were growing up,it was very hard to get meat.
你第一次吃鸡肉的时候 是多少岁 How old were you before you tasted your first chicken?
啊 12岁 12, wow! Yeah.
每天早上 当天还蒙蒙亮的时候
我们就会排起长队
没有足够的食物 饿殍满地
毛主席领导的农业改革的失败 The great famine in the late '50s and early '60s took the lives of an estimated 30 million
加之三年自然灾害 夺去了成千上万人的生命 when Chairman Mao's agricultural reforms failed.
在红英一直生活的地方 四川 有1/7的人死了 In Sichuan, where Hong Ying lived,one in seven died.
当我第一次看到五彩斑斓的菜市场
我说道 这太丰盛了 五颜六色的
真的被感动了 于是我哭了
中国改革开放后 红英移居国外 When China opened up,Hong Ying moved abroad
成了一名成功的美食家和小说家 and became a successful food and fiction writer.
多年以后她回到北京 She returned to Beijing ten years ago.
你可以看到北京变化太大了
就像蔬菜拔地而起
晚饭我们准备做两个菜 首先做的是鸡翅 For dinner, we're cooking two dishes, starting with the chicken wings.
我弄的这个实际上就是你们的海盐和五香粉 Now, what I'm making here is just your sea salt and five spice powder.
我觉得五香粉绝对是好东西 I think five spice is a great seasoning.
把它洒在鸡翅上 Just put it over the chicken wing.
先把调料混在一起 这种调料混合了肉桂 丁香 It comes ready mixed and is a blend of cinnamon, cloves,
八角茴香 茴香和四川胡椒 star anise, fennel and Sichuan peppercorns.
然后把它洒在盘子里 就是这么简单 Then throw it in the oven, that's how simple it is.
鸡翅还要再烤30分钟 The chicken needs to bake for 30 minutes.
要和它配着吃 我得做点配菜的主食 包菜 To go with it and making a side dish from the staple
它见证了北京以前的艰苦的岁月 of Beijing cooking, cabbage, which saw people through the hard times.
北京人认为吃包菜是表达对北京的敬意 They think cabbage is a homage to Beijing.
我要把虾干和包菜一起翻炒一下 I'm going to stir fry it with this lovely dried shrimp.
把它拿出来的时候我都能闻到味道 噢 确实不错 I could smell it when I took it out.Yeah. How good this was.
先往锅里放些大蒜 然后再把虾干和包菜倒进去 Into the wok go some garlic,then the shrimp and the cabbage.
这就是正宗中国菜的味道 It's the smell of real Chinese cooking.
通常我做的时候要加些米酒 但今天没有 我就随意了 Now I usually add rice wine, but none at hand, I'm winging it.
我能加点金酒么 Can I add a little bit of the gin?
倒太多了吧 Don't put too much!
对 确实多了 Yes, it's too much.
闻起来很香啊 That smells good.
过几分钟我得把从市场 I'm blanching the cucumber flowers we bought in the market
买的菜花煮一下 for a couple of minutes.
吃起来像豆子一样 Just like beans.
这会再把它们放在锅里一分钟 Then I give them a minute in the wok.
菜不错 They're good.
我以前从没做用过菜花 I've never used that before.
红英11岁的时候就开始在公社的食堂做饭了 Hong Ying started cooking at 11 in the village commune kitchen.
每个家庭一个月分两公斤米 Each family was rationed just two kilos of rice a month.
她只学会做很少的菜 She learned to make the most out of very little.
红英 你是怎么把自己的经历变成对饮食的热爱的 Hong Ying, how did you turn what happened to you into a love of food?
我觉得食物就像写作和绘画一样
如果你感知到了 并全身心投入到
其中 情感和爱融入其中 一切就会改变
很有道理 Very philosophical.
在烤箱里烤了半小时之后 After half an hour in the oven,
鸡翅成了金棕色 很香脆 the chicken wings are golden brown and crispy.
往锅里放些蒜和葱花 菜就做好了 I'm finishing them off in the wok with garlic and spring onions.
菜做多了 When you cook it like more than once,
你就会有多层次的体会 you have different layers of flavour.
中国烹饪是多维的 Remember Chinese cooking is about layers,
而不是一维的 it's not just one-dimensional.
恩 Mmm.
真好吃 These are really delicious.
你得尝尝包菜 You must try the cabbage.
今天从你这我学到很多东西 I learned something from you today.
酒 黄金酒 Gin. Golden gin.
我很有兴趣 I was impressed.
在爨底下村 我起得很早 和女主人—— In Chuandixia village, I'm up early to join my homestay host,
韩大姐一起准备早餐 Mrs Han, making our country breakfast.
这是Cong Dan Bing 就是葱蛋饼 It's Tong Dan Bing,spring onion flatbread.
我妈妈教过我怎么做 My mother taught me how to make them
但是我知道韩大姐有其独家秘方 but I'm pretty sure Mrs Han has her own particular way of doing it.
妈妈教我的是 先在饼外面撒一层葱花 倒些油 The way I was taught is you put a layer of spring onion, oil,
然后把它像千层糕一样卷起来 几乎就是千层糕 then you fold it like a pastry almost like a pastry.
额 哇 她开始做了… Oh, wow, she's making it...
她在用另外一种不同的方法在做 (WHISPERS) She's making it a different way!
她像切蛋糕一样把它切开 然后 She cuts it like a cake and then she folds it back on itself
顺时针折起来 最后再揉在一起 in like a clockwise direction and then she kneads it again.
手艺确实不错 Quite a good technique, actually.
这样的话 饼的表层很有弹性 It means it has these stretchy kind of layers.
你得烹饪直到它熟了为止 She has to cook it until the dough is cooked through.
一般情况下 Normally...
上面有一层 呃 鸡蛋 we have a thin layer of, um...egg,
像一个把打好的鸡蛋放到上面的饼卷 然后左右转一转 beaten egg, like a crepe that we put on top and we roll it.
过去我都习惯了这样吃 That's how I'm used to eating it
但现在她准备用煮熟的鸡蛋配着葱花饼 but she's going to be serving it with boiled eggs.
以前我从来没吃过加上水煮蛋的薄饼 I haven't tried it with boiled eggs before.
下来我要冒险试试 做做我说的那种薄饼 I'm going to risk rocking the boat here and make my crepe version too.
很简单 只要鸡蛋 盐 葱花 It's really simple.Just eggs, salt and spring onion.
把锅放到中火上 加入鸡蛋混合物 With the wok on a medium heat, add the beaten egg mixture,
然后向四周旋转 这样鸡蛋就会覆盖锅底 煎饼就做成了 swirl it around so it coats the wok and creates a thin egg crepe.
一面好了 就要把它翻过来 再煎另一面 Once it's cooked on one side, flip it over and cook the other side.
在台湾我们通常是这样吃的 This is how we have it normally in Taiwan.
像那样 Like that.
葱蛋饼 加一个鸡蛋 Tong Dan Bing, with an egg, like that.
在台湾我们就是这么做的 This is how we would serve it in Taiwan.
很好吃 It's very good.
哎呀 做完了 Phew! Finally!
我们可以享用了 Now we can eat.
为配上两种类型的薄饼 To accompany our two different versions of the flatbreads,
韩大姐还做了玉米粥 Mrs Han has also made corn porridge.
因为在中国北方 这里不长大米 Because we're in the north of China,they don't really grow rice here,
然而他们却有美味的玉米粥 so instead they have sweet corn porridge.
呃 它香味很重 You know, it's got a wonderful, smoky flavour to this.
喝起来味道美极了 It's really delicious.
呃 Mmm.
谢天谢地 Thank God!
她说每个人都有做薄冰的独特方法和类型 She said everyone has their own way of cooking and their own style.
这是我们在北京的最后一夜了 It's our final night in Beijing.
我们回到这座现代城市的中心 We're back in the heart of the modern city
来到专门供新贵们购物和吃饭的街上 and its most exclusive street where the new rich come to shop and eat.
我们将要和一个引领首都美食革新的厨师一起烹饪 We're cooking with a chef who is leading the capital's food revolution.
大东师傅在厨房 Chef Da Dong brings tradition
把传统和创新结合在一起 and innovation together in culinary theatre
当然他的最擅长的是 中国人的最爱——烤鸭 and his specialty is, of course,the nation's favourite - duck!
在听从他父亲（当厨师）永远不会挨饿的建议后 This proud Beijinger became a chef on his father's advice
这位自豪的北京人成了一名厨师 that he would never go hungry.
（中国菜的名声）在被多年的压迫和贫穷破坏后 He's dedicating himself to reviving the reputation of Chinese cuisine
他全力振兴中国菜的声誉 after it was blighted by years of oppression and poverty.
这是最大的不同 This is the big difference.
以前中国的厨师只知道厨房 Chefs before in China only knew about the region.
事实上 他们从来没有机会或者钱 去其他地方旅游 Actually, they never had the opportunity, all the time or the money, to travel anywhere else.
他的招牌菜之一 This is one of his signature dishes,
酸甜香酥素鸭块 sweet and sour duck balls in the crispy yam basket.
这种酸和甜是你在其他地方从来没有尝到过的 This is not like sweet and sour you've ever seen anywhere.
这很像鸭子生下球状的鸭蛋 It's like the duck has given birth to the duck balls and that's the duck eggs.
很有诗意 It's all very poetic.
被他美丽的创意所打动 我们准备用他美味的烤鸭 Inspired by this beautiful creation,we're now cooking for him,
为他做我们自己的大东风味菜肴 making our Da Dong style dishes, using his delicious Peking duck.
我们马上就要展示给他们看 We will show them.
一个广东人和台湾人要同一个北京人较量 A Cantonese and a Taiwanese can take on a Beijinger.
我在做回锅鸭和苹果的色拉 I'm doing a twice cooked crispy duck and apple salad.
我的灵感来自于果木的味道 I'm inspired by the flavour of the fruitwood,
你知道 他们使用的苹果树 梨树 you know, they use the apple trees,the pear trees.
就像他们对鸭子进行切片和精雕细琢一样 This is like the way that they slice and carve their ducks
我想我们会切些苹果的小薄片 so I thought maybe we'll do some apples in little pieces.
哇 太美了 Oh, beautiful.
这个有点像切鸭肉 This is kind of like carving a duck.
现在该切鸭肉了 Now for the duck.
腿上的肉更多肥肉 汁也多 The leg meat is more juicier, more succulent
因为我要油炸它 and because I'm going to fry it again,
我需要汁多的 那部分肥肉 I need that juicy, meaty part
然后我要把它切成一口大小 and then I'm just going to chop it into bite-size pieces.
未经加工的肉很好 即使带着皮 Rough is OK, even with the skin.
我只要放一点五香粉 I'm just going to put a little bit of five spice,
只要一点点 它非常有助于提肉味 just a little bit. It really does help to bring out the flavour of the meat.
然后是把肉和玉米淀粉拌一下 准备进油锅炸 And then, corn starch and we're ready to deep fry.
鸭肉只需在锅里炸一分钟即可 The duck only needs a minute in the wok.
由于鸭子已经熟了 我现在只要让它入味就好 As it's already cooked, I'm just sealing in the flavour.
油比较热 但我们还是要等到外面的玉米粉 像这样 While it's hot, the outer edges where the cornflour, like this...
变成金色和脆脆的 lovely golden and crisp.
我们只要把多余的脂肪耗掉就好 We'll just drain the excess fat.
下来是做沙拉酱 Next is the salad dressing.
我用的XO酱 辣海鲜酱 虾米 I'm using XO sauce, a spicy seafood sauce made from dried shrimp,
干扇贝和辣椒 dried scallop and chillies.
然后我要用一些甜面酱 Then I'm going to use some of this Tian ming jiang.
这种甜面酱 The sort of sweet bean paste.
一点点糖 A little bit of sugar,
一点点黑米醋 a little bit of black rice vinegar.
它就会变得又酸又甜 对 It's going to be sweet and sour. Right.
酱怎么样 还好 只是有一点点酸 How's the sauce? It's OK.It's a little bit too vinegary.
我觉得需要更多的甜面酱和一点糖 I think I need more of the sweet bean paste and a little bit more sugar.
如果太酸的话 你加点糖就好了 If it's too vinegary, you just add a little bit more sugar.
有点辣 有点甜…… So, a little spicy, sweet...
很可爱 Lovely.
这很像春天到了鸭子在嬉戏 That's like ducks playing in spring time.
往菜里加一些剁碎的生菜 My dish is minced up with lettuce cups.
我要煸炒萝卜和黄瓜的北京烤鸭 I'm going to stir fry the Peking duck with radish and cucumber,
还有一些淡水栗子 along with some fresh water chestnuts.
我想让这道菜非常非常辣 I want to get those really, really hot.
好 放些蒜 姜 OK, some ginger, garlic,
葱 spring onion...
准备入锅 转一下 I'm ready to wok and roll here.
味道很好闻 老谭 是啊 Smells good, Ken. Yeah.
我要把鸭肉倒进去 I'm going to add my duck.
所有她给他北京烤鸭加的佐料 All these condiments he uses for his Peking duck,
所以这也是表达对他的一种敬意 so this is a bit of a homage to him,as well.
这看起来不错 我喜欢的颜色 粉红色和绿色 That looks good, I love the colours,the pink and green.
一点点的米酒 A little bit of rice wine.
水栗子再加上我很喜欢的花生 Water chestnuts, and what I like is a little bit of peanuts for crunch.
我还用了甜面酱 I'm also using the sweet bean sauce
还有我最喜欢的蚝油加了一点 and adding a touch of my favourite,oyster sauce.
快好了 That'll be ready.
太可爱了 Lovely.
我喜欢看老谭和锅之间的默契 I love watching Ken with the wok,
以及观察他用锅做菜的技巧 the way he works it with the flame,
他的菜里注入了一些浓厚的烟熏味 he's infusing the ingredients with a deep, smoky flavour.
做得好 老谭 Oh, good work, Ken.
马上就做完了 I'll finish it off.
它会有一点点脆 It'll have a bit of crunchiness.
它有很多种味道 你只要吃出一中味道就好 There's a lot of flavour,you only need a little bit.
最终 我用的是鸭子最肥的部分 Finally, I'm using the fattest part of the duck,
皮上的肉 为了给菜加上一些情趣 the skin, to add extra crouton,light crunch to my dish.
噼里啪啦 鸭子的噼里啪啦 Like the crackling.The crackling of a duck.
要给鸭加点什么 That's going to add that crunch.
我忍不住用点食用花 And I couldn't resist stealing a bit of his edible flowers.
美丽 Beautiful!
不要认为我们要能够打动大东 Do think we're going to be able to impress Da Dong?
打动他还需要做更多 It takes a lot to impress him!
我已经做饭做了52年 但现在我感觉我回到了学校 I've cooked for 52 years, but right now I feel like I'm back in school.
哦 谢谢你 Oh, thank you.
现在该尝我的了 And now for mine.
为了给我们饯行 大东做了很多美味的鸭子 To end our time in Beijing,Da Dong has made us a feast of duck delicacies.
以示对中国过去皇家殿堂宴会的敬意 It's a homage to the grand Imperial Court banquets of China's past.
盐水鸭肝... Salted duck livers...
哦 Oh!
红烧的鸭舌 很美味 Braised duck tongues.This is beautiful.
煸炒鸭心 And stir-fried duck hearts.
哦 我的天啊 太香了 Oh, my goodness, that is rich.
吃起来感觉很好 广东话称之为 好爽 It feels good in your mouth and Cathays call it hoisin.
哦 好爽 Oh, hoisin?
是的 这就像 嗯 Yeah, it's like, mmm!
我真的很惊讶 也很感动 I'm so surprised and so touched
能在有生之年看到这些 that I see this in my lifetime.
当我来到中国时 我想 When I used to come to China, I thought,
“噢 我的上帝 我们如此落后 还能迎头赶上吗 ” "Oh my God we're so behind,is it ever going to catch up?"
现在 我看到了像大东这样的人 Now, I see people like Da Dong
我确定 我将见证更多中国的变化之处 I'm sure, I'm gonna see many places in China how it's changing
这让我很骄傲 非常… It makes me proud, it's a...
对我而言 我的人生在这种回归中获得了圆满 It's like a full circle, coming to terms with who I'am
我也为我是中国人而自豪 and I was right to be proud, to be a Chinese.
- 干杯! - 这真的很棒 - Cheers! - It's fantastic!
下一次旅程 我们将去四川省 Next time we journey to the Sichuan province.
中国最火辣的地方 The spicy, hot land of China.
- 哇 - 真的很麻辣 - Wow! - It's really numbing heat.
那里的食物辛辣刺激 辣椒即是王者 Where the food is firey, and the chillipepper is king.
肯定会让人辣翻天的 this will actually blow your head off good.
我们将探索世界上发展最快的都市之一 We'll explore one of the world's fastest growing megacities.
我有想过这里变化会很大 但仍震惊无比 I thought it would be a lot of change, but it's shocking.
却仍旧具有浓厚的中国味 But still, deeply Chinese.
- 噢 他在给你的耳朵按摩 - 我喜欢 - Oh he's massaging your ear. - I love it.
我们会到乡间探险 We'll adventure to the rural backwaters.
烹饪传统菜肴 To cook traditional dishes.
猪耳上的软骨好好吃 This pig's ear is really good, cartilegy! Good!
了解为何川菜 And find out why Sichuan cuisine
在全世界闻名遐迩 is now been celebrated around the world.
在这我发现了很多 I'm discovering things here,
给我带来了灵感 that are an inspiration to me.