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中国，世界五分之一人口的家园 China, home to one in five of the planets population.
令全球敬畏的超级大国，但却鲜有人真正了解 The superpower the world fears, but few really know.
谭荣辉是中国菜的教父 Ken Hom is the Godfather of Chinese food.
人间天堂 Heaven on Earth.
三十余年前，他把锅引入了西方 He introduced the wok to the West more than 30 years ago.
你要这样烧才行 This is the way you should be cooking it.
黄瀞亿则是下一代中餐厨师的领头人 Ching He Huang is leading the next generation of Chinese cooks...
接下来我要剁下它的头 Im just going to chop off the head.
她的烹饪手法时尚又匠心独运 ..with a modern, inventive approach to the cuisine.
这就像春日里野鸭游水嬉戏 Its like ducks playing in springtime.
我们即将开始一段绝无仅有的旅行，借由饮食走访中国 Were taking a once-in-a-lifetime adventure across China through food...
兔头 尝尝看？ Rabbit head. Shall we try one?
探寻这个古老国家最深处的灵魂 ..to delve into its heart and soul.
摔，然后拉 Bang it, pull it.
饮食，是了解中国文化最好的途径 Food is the best way to explore Chinese culture,
因为我们为食而生存 because we really live to eat.
这是一场史诗般的旅程 Its an epic trip,
横跨3000英里，从东部繁华的都市 3,000 miles from the megacities of the East
到西部荒凉的、被遗忘的村落 to the forgotten villages of the Wild West.
这感觉像是回到了成吉思汗那个时代 Its like going back to the time of Genghis Khan.
她就这样把它的头掐掉了！ Shes just decapitated it!
我们会发现一些熟悉的味道，还有很多秘密及惊喜…… Well uncover the familiar, the secret and the surprising...
Wow，我以前从来没见过这样的！ Wow, Ive never seen that done before!
做一些简单却味美的佳肴 ..cook simple and delicious dishes...
这是我的四川腊肠 That is my Sichuan sausage.
揭开中国过去以及现在的秘密 ..and reveal the secrets of China, old and new.
这就像我梦境中一直出现的那场旅行 Its like a journey that Ive always dreamt about,
那场中国之旅 but in a China Ive dreamt about.
发现中国：美食之旅 第二集
这次，我们来到了成都 This time, were in Chengdu,
世界上发展最快的城市之一 it is one of the fastest growing cities in the world.
位于这个国家的内陆 In the interior of the country,
一直是一个与世隔绝之地 it has always been an isolated place,
远离西方文化的影响 free from Western influence,
在中国大都市中仍然是最具中国元素的一个
在距离北京近1000英里远的 Nearly 1,000 miles from Beijing,
四川省的腹地 deep in the heartland in Sichuan province,
成都，以中国美食之都而闻名 Chengdu is known as one of the culinary capitals of China.
成都的美食在中国最受欢迎，在全球 The food here is the hottest in China and increasingly famous
也以其别具一格的辛辣，逐渐被世人所熟知 all over the world for its distinctive fiery flavours.
种类繁多 A real variety.
我们到了成都一家香料市场，探寻使得川菜如此特别的 Weve come to Chengdus spice market to explore the explosive tastes
火辣滋味 that make Sichuan food so unique.
这里就是川菜的核心所在 This place is like the core,
是它的灵魂，孕育它的摇篮 the heart, the mother-ship of spicy Sichuan food.
这里的人极其嗜好吃辣 The people here are obsessed with chillies,
并声称这些菜肴有极佳的药效 claiming they have a medicinal quality,
能驱赶寒冷而潮湿的天气 driving out the cold, wet climate.
你真的会有一种尝试一切的欲望 You really feel like trying all of them,
因为有些是我以前闻所未闻的 because some, Ive never seen before.
我希望他们说的是真的，因为这儿的确太潮湿了 I hope theyre right, because it really is damp here.
（中文） HE SPEAKS IN NATIVE TONGUE
即使是辣椒籽，在西方少有人用的东西 Even the seeds of the chilli, which we tend to avoid in the West,
这里也被当做配料来卖 are sold here as a garnish.
辣椒籽那些颜色稍有偏差的辣椒 They take the seeds out of the ones that are slightly off colour,
因为它们卖相不佳 that arent as desirable,
这儿真的有很多辣椒！ so thats a lot of chilli!
（中文） THEY SPEAK IN LOCAL DIALECT
他们用旺火炒，干烘 Oh, so they stir-fry it, so its dry toasting.
你可能认为他们的味蕾无法承受这种强烈的刺激 You would think this assault on their taste buds would be unbearable,
但是川菜并非全是辣椒 but its not all about chillies.
好大啊！我们从哪里下手? So big! Where do you start?
川菜，还有另外一个关键所在 Theres a second key ingredient that absolutely defines Sichuan food.
这些看起来无害的花椒果皮 This innocent looking husk from the berry of the prickly ash bush
名字叫做四川花椒 is called the Sichuan flower pepper.
花椒制造了一种强烈的，令人难以置信的酥麻的感觉 It creates an incredibly intense numbing sensation
调和了食物里辣椒的辛辣 that balances the chilli heat of the food.
花椒刺激了味蕾，释放出了爆炸般的酥麻的味道 It stimulates the taste buds, unleashing an explosion of flavours.
不知为何，我突然有点害怕尝它了 I dont know why Im actually a little terrified of trying it,
因为我以前用它烧过很多次菜 because Ive cooked with it so many times.
哇! Wow!
老天！ Oh, my God!
这真的很麻，让人舌苔酥麻的辛辣 Its really strong, really numbing heat,
比我们在英国吃到的厉害得多啊 much stronger than what we have in the UK.
在这里我要通过运用这些本土的的调料来烹饪， Its these authentic local flavours
以此精进烹饪技巧 that Ive come here to cook with and master.
薰衣草的香味是令人难以置信的 The fragrance of lavender taste is unbelievable.
我知道，里面有一些薰衣草和小柑橘香料 I know. Lavender and a little citrus spice to it.
我几乎二十四年没来过这里了 I havent been here for almost 24 years
现在我才知道自己有多么怀念这种香味 and now I realise how much I miss this fragrance.
世界上没有几个地方的烹饪 There are not many places in the world where cooking is
仅仅是由一些关键的香料所支配 so dominated by just a few key spices.
我们想在一些能找到最地道的美食的地方 We want to begin our exploration of these fascinating, complex flavours
探索这些迷人的而复杂的风味 where some of the most authentic food can be found.
那些简陋的小餐馆 Here in these ramshackle restaurants,
隐秘在这个城市的小巷里 hidden away in the alleys and backstreets of the city.
为了帮我们找到最棒的店家 To help us track down one of the best,
我们请到了Jenny Gao来帮忙 weve enlisted the help of Jenny Gao,
一个出生于成都，在加拿大长大的美食作家 a food writer raised in Canada, but born in Chengdu.
她带我们去了这个城市老城区的一家餐馆 Shes taking us to a restaurant in the old part of the city
这里即将面临重建 thats due for redevelopment.
这是一家很有名的“苍蝇馆子”——【明婷】 So this is the famous fly restaurant Ming Ting,
它刚开业的时候仅仅只有几张桌子 and it started off just a couple of tables,
但是随着名气的提升，这家店的规模也逐渐变大 but as its popularity grew, more and more tables were added.
你们也看到了，桌子已经摆到大街上了 As you see, it spilled out onto the street.
之所以叫做“苍蝇馆子” Called fly restaurants
是因为它简陋的卫生环境 apparently because of their rough-and-ready approach to hygiene,
然而这些地方一直凝聚着这座城市饮食文化的灵魂 these places have always been the soul of the food culture here.
你好！ Wow! Ni hao!
在这种厨房做饭岂不是很有趣？虽然有一点杂乱 Wouldnt it be fun to cook in this kitchen? Its just chaos!
舀了辣椒豆瓣酱、大蒜和生姜 So its got chilli bean paste, its got some garlic and ginger.
真香！听听这个锅里的“嗤啦”声，多么浓郁的香气 The fragrance! Yes. The roar of the wok! How intense it is.
我迫不及待想要用这些奇妙的香料来做料理了 Im desperate to cook with all these amazing spices,
但是首先 but first, I want to taste how the chefs combine
我要尝尝厨师结合辣椒和四川花椒创造出来的 chilli and Sichuan flower pepper
当地人称之为麻辣的味道如何 to create the distinctive numbing heat they call ma la.
这些菜，刚吃的时候，你不会感到非常强烈的 For all these dishes, you wont get a very strong sensation
你知道的，非常麻，非常辣的滋味 of like, you know, very ma, very la,
但是当你越吃越多以后…我现在有感觉了，有感觉了 but after you start eating more and more... I can feel it now. I can.
你开始感觉到舌头和嘴唇发麻发辣了，对吗？ ..you start to feel it on your tongue and on your lips, right?
是的，我的嘴巴着火了 Right. My mouth is on fire.
当地最有名的一道菜叫麻婆豆腐 One of the most famous local dishes is Ma Po Dofu,
当地的传统做法是用豆腐佐以牛肉或者猪肉烹调 a regional classic made with tofu and usually ground beef or pork.
但是在【明婷】，它的做法却有些出乎我们意料 But here at Ming Ting, it has a surprising alternative ingredient.
他们在里面放了点猪脑 Theyre tricking you by putting a little pig brain in there.
猪脑？是的，猪脑！猪脑和豆腐？！ Pig brain?! Pig brain. Pig brains with tofu?!
是的，猪脑掺在了豆腐里 Yeah, dig in.
尽管在我很小的的时候，我爸爸在台湾也养猪 Despite my dad keeping pigs when I was young in Taiwan,
但是我一直也没像中国人一样爱吃脑 Id never developed the Chinese love of brains.
这一勺“脑子”给的很慷慨啊 Thats a generous bit of brain.
我的天呐！ Oh, my goodness me!
这是我的“第一次” This is a first for me.
我可以说我试过各种内脏，但脑子从没试过 I can clearly say Ive had probably all bits of offal, but not brain.
-没试过脑？ -事实上，我现在感到有点古怪 Not brain? Im feeling a bit funny, actually.
把它想成豆腐 Think of it as tofu.
好吧，我试试…… Right, OK, Ill...
恩，口感真的很顺滑！ Mmm. Its really creamy!
是的！ Yes!
它让我想起了鹅肝酱，对就是这个！ It reminds me of foie gras. Absolutely!
在四川，吃猪脑非常普遍 Pig brain is actually very popular in Sichuan,
其他动物的脑也几乎如此 as is the brain of a lot of animals.
-好吧，我还是继续当豆腐党吧！ -当真？ -当然 Yeah, I think Ill stick to the tofu. Really? Right.
“麻婆豆腐”是我最爱的菜肴之一 Ma Po Dofu is one of my favourite dishes
我非常想让【明婷】的厨师评鉴一下我做的麻婆豆腐 and I really want to test out the authenticity of my version
到底功底如何 on the chefs at Ming Ting.
所以，现在我要去准备材料了 So Im going to prep my ingredients here.
如同其他的四川菜食谱，蒜，姜，辣椒，豆瓣酱 Like many Sichuan recipes, garlic, ginger, chilli bean paste
当然了，还有少许当地的特色四川花椒 and, of course, a pinch of that ground Sichuan flower pepper
现放进热油里，让香味充分溢出来 are exploded in hot oil to release their fragrance.
这就像接下来的旅途中 Like most of the dishes
我们将要做的很多菜肴一样，这道菜很适合在家里烧 will cook on our travels, its easy to do at home.
有这样一群专业的观众旁观，让我有点小紧张 Its a little unnerving though to have such an expert audience,
特别是我将改编他们的招牌菜 particularly because Im adapting the house special,
把原菜里的猪脑 swapping the pigs brains
换成中国的豆角和腌笋 for Chinese long beans and pickled bamboo,
当然，你还可以放一些韭菜和小葱 although you could use leeks and shallots.
放豆角，鲜笋 In with my beans, in with the bamboo shoots.
接下来我要用少许酱油调味 Im going to season now with a little bit of soy.
加入豆腐 In with the tofu.
看起来真是太漂亮了 That looks absolutely beautiful.
你可以在英国的中国超市里买到四川花椒 You can get ground Sichuan flower pepper in Chinese supermarkets
或是上网购买 in the UK or online.
别手软，多尝试几次让这道菜的辣味 And dont be afraid to experiment to get that balance
恰到好处 with the chillies just right.
干得漂亮 Beautiful.
很棒 Very good.
很棒？ Very good.
我非常喜欢这里的氛围，看到传统的中餐厨艺 I love the atmosphere in this place and its heartening to see
在这些年轻的厨师手里得以传承，让我感到非常鼓舞 that traditional cooking is safe in the hands of these young chefs.
尽管【明婷】所坐落之地即将面临拆迁改造 And even though Ming Tings present location is soon to be redeveloped,
但是大厨Wu Jing和他手下的员工对未来充满了信心 chef Wu Jing and his staff are positive about the future.
他准备继续跟着他的老板 Hes going to just follow his boss.
他的老板将来在哪里开店，他就去哪里帮老板 Wherever his boss opens next, thats where he will go.
四川！敬四川！干杯！干杯！ Sichuan! To Sichuan! Cheers! Gan bei! Cheers!
第二天一早 The next morning,
我们将在市郊和Jenny会面 weve arranged to meet Jenny on the outskirts of the city.
成都是中国政府西部大开发政策的中心地 Chengdu is at the centre of the governments Go West policy.
它投资了三千亿美元用于发展西部经济 Its invested $300 billion to spark an economic boom in western China.
和上海、北京的投资规模相等 On a par with Beijing and Shanghai.
整个这片地区大多数的建筑以前根本就不存在 This whole area, most of these buildings were not here.
1989年，当我还在这儿的时候，这里简直是一片荒凉 When I was here in 1989, it was still a fairly primitive place.
大多数的街道就是泥路 Many of the streets were little more than dirt roads
人们坐着驴车从农村来卖货 and people brought produce in from the countryside on carts pulled by donkeys.
现在，成都是一座拥有一千四百万人口 Now, Chengdu has a population of 14 million
且是全球城市化比率最快的城市 and the fastest rate of urbanisation in the world.
在未来十年里，成都每年预期会新增 In the next decade, its expected to increase by
近一百万的人口 nearly a million people every year.
就是那儿，那是个宾馆 There it is, thats the hotel.
我曾经就住在那家宾馆 That is the hotel I stayed in.
当时这是成都最高的建筑 It was the tallest building in Chengdu.
而现在，你也看到了 Thats it, and you see now,
同周边的建筑一比，他显得如此矮小 its dwarfed by all these other buildings.
而且他们还在不停的新建大楼，看看那儿有多少架起重机 And they keep building, look how many cranes there are over there.
太让人惊叹了 Its just amazing.
我过去认为这里会有大的变化，但真的没想到会是如此翻天覆地的巨变 I thought it would be a lot of change, but not sort of this much.
从一开始我就震撼了 Its shocking at the beginning
因为这儿以前是死水一潭 because its sleepy backwaters here.
本想这种巨变应该止于上海和北京，但没想到连成都也是这样 You expect that from Shanghai and Beijing, but not from Chengdu.
Jenny非常友好的邀请我们去了她祖父母家 Jennys been kind enough to invite us to her grandparents home
她的童年就是在这里度过的 where she spent her early childhood.
我和我表哥过去经常来这儿 My cousins and I used to come
我们总是一大家子到这儿来聚餐 and we would get together for family lunches,
你知道的，吃饺子和面条 you know, dumplings and noodles.
我很激动，因为我一直相信最美味的食物 Its exciting for me, as Ive always believed the best cooking
就在家里，而且体验家庭生活是探寻 is in the home, and a taste of family life is a great way
这座城市内里的最好方式 to get beneath the skin of a city.
这是我祖父母 So these are my grandparents.
我的祖父…… My grandfather...
Jenny的祖父母已经八十多岁了 Jennys grandparents are in their eighties
在中国的文化传统里 and, as is traditional in Chinese culture,
他们的一个儿子和他的妻子会住在家里照顾老人 one of their sons lives at home and takes care of them with his wife,
即Jenny的婶婶， Jennys aunt.
84？我错了！84？ 84. Im sorry! 84?
（笑声） THEY LAUGH
我的祖母…有点冷是不是？ My grandmother... Its quite chilly, isnt it?
室内会这么冷是因为 So the reason why its so cold indoors
四川没有集中供暖 is because theres no central heating in Sichuan.
没有？ There isnt?
所有不集中供暖的省 All of the provinces dont actually have central heating because
我猜可能都是因为政府觉得这儿还不够冷 I guess the government figures its not cold enough to need it.
所以，在室内也得穿上外衣? So do they were coats indoors, then?
是的，冬天的时候，每个人都穿着外套 Yes, exactly. When its winter, everyone wears coats,
系着围巾，戴着帽子，全副武装 scarves, hats, the whole thing.
感谢上帝还有锅还能做饭！ Thank God for the wok and cooking!
当瀞亿呆在家里熟悉那个家庭时 While Ching gets to know the family,
我很想去当地的市场看看 I really want to see the local market
我加入了Jenny婶婶每天买菜的行程 and join Jennys aunt on her daily trip to buy fresh ingredients.
大多数日子，她在拂晓之际就会到此购买最好的食材 Most days, shes here at the crack of dawn to get the best produce.
每天早上她都要花近五个小时 She spends around five hours each morning
买菜，为全家准备午饭 shopping and preparing lunch for her family.
我主动请缨自己购买食材烹饪 I offered to help out with a dish of my own...
现在我正在找寻灵感 ..and Im on the lookout for inspiration.
想要听懂当地的方言是件难事 Its a struggle though to understand the local dialect.
多少钱？ How much?
不不不 No, no, no.
非常典型的中国文化 So typical Chinese.
我有点不好意思 Im embarrassed.
我一直非常喜欢菜市场 Ive always loved markets,
而在中国，逛市场更是一种愉快的享受 and in China, theyre a particular pleasure.
这儿很混乱，尽管政府许诺保证提高食品安全 Chaotic, and despite the governments pledge to improve food safety,
在这里我没看到用来保鲜的冰箱 I cant see many fridges.
看到这些鱼了么？活的 Do you see this for fish, see? Live.
这就是中国人追求的新鲜 This is how Chinese want freshness.
他们想确保买到的真的是新鲜的鱼 They want to make sure their fish is really fresh.
看看这个，新鲜的青蛙 Look at this, fresh frogs.
这显然是老鳖 Turtles, of course.
我还发现了这里有兔肉——四川的一大特色 I spotted some rabbit, a specialty in Sichuan.
比起其他国家来说，尽管中国会出口大部分兔肉 The Chinese actually produce more rabbit than any other country,
它仍是兔肉最大的消耗国 although they export most of it.
先很快的过一遍热水 Theyve quickly blanched it in hot water
然后剥皮，这就是处理兔子的方式 and theyve pulled the skin off, which is how rabbit is done.
在北京，广州或是我去过的中国其他地方 You would not see this in Beijing or Guangzhou,
是看不到这些的 or anywhere Ive been in China.
鸡，鸭还有猪肉，你随处可见 Duck, chicken, pork, you see that everywhere,
但是兔肉不是。这里的人们喜欢吃兔肉 but certainly not rabbit, and they just love it.
因为兔肉蛋白质丰富而且很耐饥 Its a great protein and a sustainable food,
且这里过去很贫穷，这就是人们吃兔肉的原因 and it was quite poor here, which is why they eat rabbit.
当老谭在逛菜场时，Jenny的祖母正向我展示 While Kens at the market, Jennys grandmother is showing me
她制作泡菜的传统手艺 her traditional method for making pickles.
先向盐水里放入蒜，辣椒和盐 She first adds to the pickling water, garlic, chilli and salt,
接着放两种不同的冰糖，这道工序我以前并未见过 and then uses a method I havent seen before, two types of rock sugar,
放入四川花椒，接着用白酒替代醋 a lot of Sichuan pepper and instead of vinegar, shes adding bai jiu,
这种白酒约50度，有点像含糖的伏特加 a local 50% proof spirit, a bit like a sweeter version of vodka.
泡菜在中国非常普遍 Pickles are incredibly popular in China
这是一种很简单的储存蔬菜的方式 and are an easy way to preserve vegetables.
我小时候在台湾时 When I was a child in Taiwan,
和我的祖母常常把泡菜当早饭 I used to have them for breakfast with my grandmother.
即便如今，Jenny的祖母也一直对着泡菜罐忙个不停 Jennys grandmother always has a pot of pickles on the go, even today.
我迫不及待想尝尝了 Wow, I cant wait to try those.
卤汁的效果非常好，放入的蔬菜在24小时后即可食用 The pickling water is so strong that the vegetables are ready in just 24 hours.
祖母用一种很传统的方法来稍微加工泡菜 She serves them the traditional way,
撒上一点辣椒，浇上四川花椒油 with a light drizzle of chilli and Sichuan pepper oil,
这种油是将四川花椒直接放入热油，让其香味融入热油所得 made from infusing hot oil with Sichuan peppercorns.
恩,太好吃了，清脆爽口 Mmm. That is delicious. So crunchy.
我尝出了辣椒，四川花椒油的酥麻 Ive got now the chilli, the numbing heat of that Sichuan pepper oil
还有一点泡菜的酸味 and a little sour from the pickle.
太美味了，谢谢您 Beautiful, thank you.
当我们从菜场归来后 As soon as we return,
Jenny的婶婶便着手做午饭了 Jennys aunt gets straight to work on the lunch.
我正在准备一道简单的菜肴——炒兔肉 Im making a simple rabbit stir fry,
当然了，你也可以用鸡肉替代 but you could use chicken for this dish.
首先倒入酱油，芝麻油腌肉 Im using a marinade of soy sauce,
接着裹上一层玉米粉 sesame oil, with a coating of cornflour.
通常，我们需要腌制几个小时，让肉达到最佳效果 Its usually best left for a couple of hours to take effect.
这道菜的配料我选了大蒜 Im cooking the rabbit with garlic
还有少许青椒 and the less spicy green chillies,
因为兔肉本身已经足够鲜美 as the flesh has a delicate flavour.
外国人通常不知道的是 What people outside of China dont know
即使是在自家烧饭，人们倒油之前 is that even home cooks will heat the wok up until its very, very hot
也会先热一下锅，让温度上去 before they add the oil.
所以我已经花了几分钟热锅了 So Ive heated it up for a few minutes now.
现在火候正好 This is good firepower.
你现在能看到，它在冒烟，别担心 As you can see, its smoking like this. Dont worry.
你要让油变得很烫 You want this to be very hot.
显然在家这样烧时，你要小心一点 You obviously have to be careful doing this at home,
但是如果你把锅端着，离火远点 but if you pull the wok away from the heat,
很快火就会迅速熄灭 the flames would die down quickly.
就是这样，实际上，你就应该这样烧 This is the way, actually, you should be cooking it.
正是这赋予了中国菜 This is what gives Chinese food
非常非常独特的美味 its very, very special flavour.
它能锁住食物的香味和营养 It seals in the juices.
现在，这一步很重要，把肉全盛出来沥干 Now, its very important to take all this now and drain it.
放入蒜和辣椒，接下来并不是要放油 We add the garlic and the chillies and, instead of adding more oil,
很多不熟悉中国菜的厨师 which is a mistake a lot of cooks make
会犯这个错误——倒油进锅里 when theyre not familiar with Chinese food,
我们只要加一些我用兔骨熬的浓汤 we just add a little bit of the broth I made from the rabbit bones,
等到收汤的时候，再加入兔肉一起翻炒 and at the very end, I return the rabbit.
我只花了几分钟来翻炒兔肉 Im only braising the rabbit meat for a couple of minutes.
在西方，我们追求口感是柔软 In the West, we usually aim for tenderness,
而在中国，人们更喜爱耐嚼有劲道的口感 but here, people love chewy textures
重视食物入口的感觉 and really appreciate the feel of food in the mouth.
当老谭大展厨艺时，我正享受着同这一家人相处的快乐 While Ken cooks, Im enjoying spending time with the family.
我有种回到家的感觉 I feel like Ive come back home.
我在台湾的一个小乡村长大，和我的祖父母一起生活 I grew up in a small village with my grandparents in rural Taiwan,
在我五岁时 and then, when I was five,
和父母一起到了南非 left with my parents for South Africa,
11岁时，最终来到了英国 finally arriving in the UK when I was 11 years old.
在学校时，我从未因我的中国人身份自豪 When I was growing up at school, I was never proud to be Chinese.
我最想做的事，就是变成英国人 All I wanted to do was be English,
我常想，我为何不能更像我的英国朋友们一些呢？ and, why couldnt I be more like my English friends?
我想把头发染黄，你知道的，看起来更西方 And I wanted to dye my hair blonde and, you know, be very Western.
而随着年岁的增长，烹饪帮我寻回了我的中国根 Over the years, cooking has helped connect me to my Chinese roots,
所以我很想为Jenny一家做些什么 so it feels important to make something for Jennys family that,
因为他们，让我了解了真正的四川人 for them, feels authentically Sichuanese.
看Jenny的婶婶烧菜很令人振奋 Watching Jennys aunt cook is really inspiring.
她正在烧水煮鱼，闻起来很棒 Shes making a boiled fish dish. Smells good.
你婶婶厨艺真的很精湛 Your aunt is a really masterful cook,
而且她穿着高跟鞋做饭，真厉害 and she cooks in high heels, its amazing. I know!
真是太厉害了! It really is amazing!
现在她撒上碎辣椒 So now shes sprinkling on the chilli flakes.
她浇上一些滚烫的菜籽油 Shes got some hot vegetable oil.
哇喔! Wow!
看起来棒极了 That looks wonderful.
我以前从没这样做过——在菜上撒上辣椒 Ive never done it like that before - sprinkle a dish with chillies
然后在上面浇上咝咝作响的热油 and then just ladle hot sizzling oil on top.
太美妙了，我学到了好多，真是太棒了 Its just beautiful. Im learning so much, its wonderful.
我想要做一道传统的四川风味的菜 I want to make a dish with traditional Sichuan flavours.
我打算叫它又脆又香四川香肠 Im going to call it crispy, fragrant Sichuan sausage.
这是一次尝试，有时候我很喜欢即兴创作 It is about experimenting, I do like to improvise sometimes
我在家就这么做 because thats what I do at home.
首先，我要煮一下Jenny的婶婶自制的香肠 First, Im boiling some of Jennys aunts homemade sausages.
拥有所有的这些食材是每一个中国厨师的梦想 It is a Chinese cooks dream to have all these ingredients,
不过我打算用木耳 but Im going to use the wood ear mushrooms
因为它们卖相可爱、口感松脆 because theyll be lovely and crunchy.
口感在中国菜里十分重要 Texture is always important in Chinese dishes,
但是如果你喜欢，你也可以用平菇替代 but if you like, you could use oyster mushrooms instead.
我已经知道要用这些可爱的辣椒 Ive been pointed to these lovely pickled chillies.
我保留了辣椒籽 Im going to keep the seeds
我知道这家人喜欢吃辣 because I know this family likes their food hot.
这些看起来像葱 These look like spring onions, or scallions,
但实际上它们是蒜苗，大蒜的青苗 but theyre actually suan miao, which is the garlic shoots.
香肠煮十分钟就好了 The sausages should be ready after just ten minutes of boiling.
形状很重要，它关系到摆盘 Shape is important, its all about presentation
还有烹饪技巧 and also cooking techniques.
蔬菜也一样 The same applies to vegetables -
如果你按照这个角度切，就能增大接触面积 if you cut them on the angle, you expose more surface area,
在锅里，它们熟起来会快很多 theyll cook a lot quicker in a wok.
放入蒜，再放入香肠 In with the garlic, then in with all the sausages.
我先炒香肠让他们脆一点 Im going to wok fry the sausages first, so they get a bit crisp.
这是我祖母的做法 This is what my grandmother would do,
先把食材分开炒，再放在一起 cook the ingredients separately, then bring it all together.
虽然花的时间多一点，但是希望这一切是值得的 Takes a little bit more time, but hopefully, should be worth it.
我现在要倒入蔬菜了 Im just going to add the vegetables in now,
全部一起倒入 all of them together at the same time.
你一定要小心,否则你会烧着你的头发 You do need to be careful, otherwise youll set your hair on fire.
先把做好的蔬菜放在一边 The cooked vegetables are set aside,
然后，受到Jenny的婶婶做的鱼的启发 and then, inspired by Jennys aunts fish dish,
我正在做一种辣油汁 Im making a kind of hot oil dressing,
是用豆瓣酱和四川花椒做的底料 based on chilli bean paste and Sichuan flower pepper.
嗯~ 酸，辛香、辣，酥麻 Mmm, its sour, its spicy, its hot, its numbing heat.
我要把所有的这些倒回锅里 So what Im going to do is just throw this all back in the wok,
一起翻炒 and toss it all together,
使所有香味能够很好地融合 so that all the flavours are mixed in really well.
这就是我的又脆又香的四川香肠 That is my crispy, fragrant, Sichuan sausage
有木耳 with wood ear mushrooms,
蒜苗和腌辣椒 garlic shoots and pickled chilli.
真的很辣 And its so hot,
又麻又辣 its a numbing heat.
我想这是道真正的四川菜 This is a true Sichuan dish, I think,
实际上它好到爆 this will actually blow your head off good.
我想和一些大排档有的一拼 I could give some of the fly restaurants a run for their money.
Jenny的婶婶正招待我们 Jennys aunt is treating us
享用一顿这家人只有在特殊场合才吃的大餐 to the kind of feast the family only enjoys on special occasions.
三、四十年前，他们根本吃不起 30 or 40 years ago, they wouldnt have been able to afford
这么多荤菜和鱼 so many meat and fish dishes.
这是一桌令人惊叹的盛宴，包括水煮鱼 Its an amazing spread, including the water-boiled fish
里面有鲜亮的辣油、辣椒和蔬菜 with its vibrant layers of hot oil, chilli and vegetables.
青椒炒黄鳝 Braised eel with green peppers.
和美味的炒土豆丝 And a delicious, unusual stir-fry shredded potato.
我可以告诉你，这些菜要比任何餐馆都要好 This is better than any restaurant, I can tell you.
家庭烹饪，老天，这真的令人印象深刻 Home-cooked food. God, this is pretty impressive.
桌上摆着这么多令人惊叹的地道食物 With so much amazing authentic food on the table,
我希望我做出的菜味道恰到好处 I hope Ive pulled off a dish that delivers the right balance
辛香和麻辣的味道 of spice and numbing heat.
唷！我可以再喝一杯 Phew! I can have another drink now.
那是我们在成都的第三天 Were now three days into our stay in Chengdu.
我们和Jenny一家在一起的时间 Our time with Jennys family
使我们对家庭烹饪有了一次短暂但是很棒的体验 was a fascinating glimpse into home cooking.
第二天早晨，黄瀞亿和我 The next morning, Ching and I
开始寻找正宗的街头小吃 are on the lookout for some authentic street food.
太牛了，这真是太牛了 Thats brilliant, thats just brilliant.
那是生鸡 Thats fresh chicken!
西方连锁店正往这里扩张 Western chains are moving in here.
在成都，麦当劳有28家店，而7-Eleven McDonalds has 28 outlets and 7-Eleven are planning to open
打算五年内在成都开数目惊人的350家分店 a staggering 350 shops in Chengdu over the next five years.
即便如此，我们并不用走很远 Even so, we dont have to look far
就找到了一些美味的中式快餐 to find some delicious Chinese fast food,
比如这些传统的包子 like these traditional baozi buns.
-要些猪肉的？ -好 Shall we get some pork ones? Yes.
由馒头做成 Made from steamed bread,
包子在全中国都是非常普遍的小吃 theyre an incredibly popular snack throughout all of China.
-我们在北京见到了有北京风味的包子 -嗯 We saw in Beijing, they have their version. Mmm.
每个人都有他/她的风格 Everybody has their version.
它有点像我们的三明治 Its sort of like our sandwich.
真好吃 Its just delicious.
广式包子里只有叉烧没有蔬菜 In Cantonese, we only have the barbecued pork with no vegetables,
但那真的很美味!我曾经把它带到学校 and that was really nice. I took it to school.
人们都嫉妒我，他们只能吃那些难以下咽的食物 People were envious, they had these horrible,
像冷切三明治，而我有让人垂涎欲滴的香气腾腾的包子 like, cold cut sandwiches and I had this wonderful fragrant bao.
星巴克？ ..Starbucks?
星巴克？ Starbucks?
她说她从没听说过星巴克 She says shes never heard of Starbucks.
虽然中国正在现代化，可我认为她的食物文化 Even though China is modern, I dont think its food culture
根本不会被这些外国快餐威胁到 is in any way endangered by all these foreign fast food places,
-就是因为有这样的饮食传统 -嗯 simply because theres a tradition of eating things like this. Yeah.
对成都街头地道小吃真正有威胁的 The real threat to authentic food on the streets of Chengdu
是席卷整个城市的重建 is the re-development sweeping through the city.
这里像另一个星球 Its like a different planet.
没错 Yeah.
据说中国有世界上一半的吊车 They say China has half the cranes in the world.
随着老街区被拆掉 As the old neighbourhoods are torn down,
很多街头小吃摊儿已经搬到了锦里街 many of the street food stands have been moved here to Jinli Street,
一条专门休闲的成都老街 a purpose-built recreation of the old Chengdu.
如今的这里真的很现代 So this is really modernised now.
这里是很现代，很不错 Its modernised, but its OK.
那个看起来也很好 Ah, that looks good too.
它们看起来都很好 They all look good.
它们全都看起来很好 They ALL look good!
-这是四川美味 -没错 This is a Sichuan delicacy. Yes, thats right.
-是甜品，对吗？ -是糯米团儿 As a dessert, right? Its glutinous rice balls.
-这个叫“三大炮” -是 Its called San Da Pao, three big bombs. Yes.
这是传统的用声音吸引客人的方法 Its to attract people to come, traditionally. Its the sound of it.
主题公园式的氛围似乎根本阻挡不住 The theme park atmosphere seems to have done nothing to dent
中国人对独特的美味小吃的热情 the Chinese enthusiasm for unusual and wonderful snacks,
比如油炸兔头 like deep-fried rabbits head.
我们要不要尝尝看？这是兔头，尝尝？ Shall we try one? This is the rabbit head, shall we try one?
-不！不要，我不想 -来吧，我想我们应该试一下 No way! No, I dont think so. Yes, I think we should try one, come on.
我想试一下，因为我从来没吃过 I want to try this because Ive never tried it before.
好的，8元，差不多是80便士 OK, so eight yuan. Thats, like, 80p.
闻起来很香 It smells good.
噢，上边有完整的头骨 Oh, thats a proper skull over there.
没有多少肉，除了… Theres not much meat on it, except for...
在两颊上 the cheek.
你知道它尝起来像什么吗？ You know what it tastes like?
它尝起来像 It tastes like,
有一点像火腿 a little bit like a ham.
她说你应该像掰蟹爪一样掰开它… Shes saying you should open it like a crab claw...
-哦，我看到了 -露出肉来 Oh, I see. ..to reveal the meat.
好了 All right, then.
上面的调味料和香料非常可口，不是吗？ The seasoning and the spices on it are really tasty, arent they?
嗯，正是这些让它很好吃 Mmm, thats what makes it good.
它们使一些本来有点恶心的东西吃起来很美味 And it does make something that is a bit gross to eat delicious.
这是文化，如果你吃这些长大 Its cultural, if you grew up eating this,
那你就不会觉得恶心 then it wouldnt be disgusting.
你知道中国人曾经觉得什么恶心吗？ Now, you know what Chinese used to find disgusting?
当西方人吃厚厚的大块牛排时 When Westerners eat big slabs of steak,
中国人觉得很恶心 they found that really disgusting.
我母亲以前很排斥（吃牛排） My mother used to recoil.
她说：“哦，天哪，他怎么能像那样吃下一大块牛排呢？” Shed say, "Oh, God, how can he eat a big slab of cow like that?"
老谭似乎很喜欢兔头，但是我想向他展示 Ken may be keen on rabbits head, but I want to show him
这个城市里的人们真正在吃的是什么 what everyone in the city is really eating.
这是一个永远也不会被威胁到的食物传统 Its a food tradition that will never be threatened,
不论城市发展多快 它是中华美食的经典 however fast the city grows, and its one of the national dishes of China.
这种火红的，冒着气泡的汤锅被称为火锅 This fiery, bubbling cauldron of broth is known as hot pot.
你可以点任何你喜欢的东西，但关键是 You can order pretty much anything you like, but the catch is,
你必须自己动手来烫火锅 you have to cook it yourself.
这是中国本土的“芝士火锅” This is Chinas fondue,
然而他们吃火锅的历史已经有几千年了 except theyve been eating hot pot for thousands of years.
你好 Hello. Ni hao.
竹笋 他们切竹笋的方法真不可思议 Bamboo shoots. Its fantastic how they slice it.
这里没有烹饪，因为他们做的都是准备工作对吗？ Theres no cooking here because all they do is prep, right?
是的 Right.
当然，这是在成都 Of course, this being Chengdu,
他们这里做一种出色的麻辣版本的火锅 they do a mean ma la, numbing heat version here,
现在我想准确的知道里面是什么 and I want to know exactly what goes into it.
这是他们做汤底的地方 This is where they make all their soup bases.
看看四川胡椒 Look at that Sichuan peppercorn.
真是有好多花椒 Thats a lot of flowered pepper.
铜制的火锅被做成了太极图的形状 The copper hot pot is shaped like the Yin and Yang symbol,
表现出一边的清汤和 to represent the balance of the mild broth on one side
另一边的辣汤的平衡 and the spicy on the other.
那他们放入干辣椒 So they put in dry chillies
然后他放入花椒 and then he puts in the flower pepper.
火锅有不同的种类，但是在这个版本中 There are many varieties of hot pot, but in this version,
“阴”这一边通过放入一条鱼， the Yin side gets added flavour from a fish,
一些西红柿 tomatoes,
和一些看起来像午餐肉的东西调味 and what looks like spam.
或许对于西方口味来说，这是个奇怪的结合 It might seem a weird combination for Western tastes,
这里闹哄哄的谈话声让人惊叹 but the buzz here is amazing
明显对于成都人来说 and its clear that for the people of Chengdu,
吃火锅不仅仅是一顿饭还是一项同样重要的社交活动 hot pot is just as important a social event as it is a meal.
如果嫌火锅还不够辣 As if the hotpot wasnt already spicy enough,
可以加上更多的汤汁和辣油 more stock and chilli oil is brought to the table.
好多辣油 Thats a lot of chilli oil.
辣油被密封在这些奇怪的，看起来像医疗用的袋子里 Its sealed in these bizarre clinical-looking bags,
这显然是是要使顾客放心，这些油没有被回收利用 apparently to reassure the customer that the oil has not been recycled,
这是一些火锅店的做法 a practice of some hot pot restaurants.
不过现在政府 But now that the government
正严抓食品安全 is beginning to crack down on food safety,
重复使用食用油已经被禁止 re-using cooking oil has been banned.
这些红色的辣油让我感到很饿 Its making me hungry, looking at the spicy red sauce.
似乎我们让服务员点的菜太多了 It seems like we may have allowed the waitress to order too much food,
但是杀伤性十足的汤汁冒出的热气 but it was the heat from that lethal-looking broth
让我十分想要尝试一下 that I really wanted to try.
这和我想的不太一样，没我想的那么辣 Its not what I expected. Its not as spicy as I thought it would be.
你尝过麻辣吗 Did you not taste the numbing heat?
-它有点像一个延迟反应 -它有一个延迟反应 -是的 Its kind of like a delayed reaction. Theres a delayed reaction. Yeah.
它非常辣 Its really spicy.
在你说“哦，不是很辣”的时候，你发现“哦~~~” Its only when you say, "Oh, its not hot" that you go "Oh!"
-麻辣真的会让人上瘾 -没错 That numbing spice is really addictive. Yeah, it is.
经历了成都潮湿多雾的天气后 After suffering Chengdus damp and foggy climate,
我想我开始理解为什么每个人都着迷于 I think Im beginning to understand why everyone is obsessed
这种调味料的独特组合 with this unique combination of spices.
我是说，真的很神奇，我来这儿的前几天 I mean, its amazing, the first few days when I was here,
我觉得我的骨头在嘎吱响 I felt my bones creaking.
我想：“天哪，我第一次觉得自己老了” I thought, "My God, I feel old for the first time."
而我注意到，在我吃了这种食物之后 And I noticed since Ive been eating this kind of food,
我的关节不像第一天那样响了 my joints did not sort of creak the way they did the first day.
虽然气候潮湿 The climate might be damp here,
但是它使成都周边的地区 but its contributed to the area around Chengdu being
土地肥沃，因此四川在中国也被称为“天府之国” so fertile that Sichuan is known in China as the land of abundance.
不仅仅是农作物 But its not only crops,
这里也承担了这个国家一半的猪肉供应 it also supplies over half the countrys pork.
我小时候，父亲养过猪 My dad kept pigs when I was growing up,
所以我希望能去拜访一位当地的养猪人 so Im looking forward to visiting a local pig farmer.
也希望能亲自做些传统的猪肉菜肴 Im hoping to try my hand at some traditional pork dishes.
彭先生和这里的大多数农民不同 Mr Peng is different to most farmers in the region,
他养的猪是有机的 because his pigs are organic.
在中国，人们食用的肉类里面，有将近四分之三是猪肉 Nearly three quarters of all the meat eaten in China is pork.
对中国人来说，猪象征着活力，一直以来 To the Chinese, pigs symbolise virility, and traditionally,
它们都是日常生活中重要的一部分 theyve always been an important part of everyday life.
哇喔，它们真的饿了 你好，猪崽儿！ Wow, theyre really hungry. Hello, piggy!
虽然猪的每一部分中国人都吃 And although the Chinese eat every part of the pig,
他们依然每天要消费将近两百万头猪 they still get through nearly two million every day.
因为猪肉的供应压力过于巨大 With so much pressure to churn out pork,
所以有机饲喂是不被考虑的，然而我很开心地发现 organic farming has not been a priority, so Im happy to discover
彭先生非常注重他的猪的健康 Mr Peng is obsessive about his pigs well-being.
他自己生产和混合饲料 He produces and mixes his own feed
有自己的全新的不同寻常的办法使它们保持健康 and has a radical and unusual approach to their health.
这都是中草药 These are all Chinese medicine herbs.
我仍然不敢相信 I still cant believe
它们吃的那么好 they eat so well!
彭先生的生意起步缓慢 Mr Pengs business started slowly,
然而值得一提的是在过去五年里—由于对食品安全的担忧 but in the last five years - due to food safety scares
以及中产阶级的逐渐壮大— and the expanding middle class -
市场对有机食品的需求翻了两番 the demand for organic food has quadrupled.
他邀请我去他家见见他妻子然后一起吃晚饭 Hes invited me to his house to meet his wife and to have some supper.
作为回报，我会为他们做道菜 In return, Ive offered to cook a dish for them.
彭太太已经把猪肉切成了不同形状供我选择 Mrs Peng has prepared a whole selection of different cuts
这些猪肉已经煮了三十分钟 of their own pork which shes boiled for 30 minutes,
在我做菜之前，她想要为我演示几道经典的家常菜 and before I cook, she wants to show me some classic home-style dishes,
首先是一道很受推崇的凉拌菜 starting with a much-prized cold salad.
很有意思不是吗？在英国 Its funny, isnt it? Because back in England,
猪耳朵大概是最便宜的东西 pigs ear is probably the cheapest thing
因为人们不想要它，实际上会丢掉或 because people dont want that and actually discard it, or make it
把它做成狗食，但是在这儿，它是最有价值最贵的部分 into dog food, but here, its really prized and the most expensive part.
她放上些嫩葱 Shes got some baby spring onions.
在吃之前，凉拌猪耳朵 Before it can be eaten, the pigs ear salad
需要在辣油里浸几个小时 needs to soak for a couple of hours in the spicy dressing,
当然，辣油是辣椒和四川花椒调制成的 which is, of course, made with chillies and Sichuan flower pepper.
从所有这些活动看，晚饭将不止 From all the activity, it looks like Im in for
我原来预期的那么简单 more than the simple supper I was expecting.
有着典型的中国人的热情好客 With typical Chinese hospitality,
彭太太正用猪的每一个部分为我们准备一道大餐 Mrs Peng is preparing us a feast using every part of the pig.
她说这像一座桥，一座猪肋骨的桥 She said this is like a bridge, a bridge pork rib.
这真的是一种奇妙的蒸菜方式 Its a really wonderful way of steaming here,
她只是在底部加了水，然后把金属盖子盖上 shes just put water at the base, and then put a plate over the top.
他们的锅很奇妙 Their woks amazing.
下一道菜 For her next dish,
彭太太要做另一道当地名菜 Mrs Peng is making another local speciality,
用酱油、焦糖 cherry pork made with soy sauce, and a mix of caramelised sugar
和一点醋做成的樱桃肉 and a touch of vinegar.
它多汁，很柔和，非常甜 Its juicy, really tender and very sweet.
我打算为这家主人用更多 Im planning to cook my hosts a dish using more of
五花肉做一道菜 that delicious pork belly,
一道叫做回锅肉的四川经典名菜 a Sichuan classic called twice-cooked pork.
彭先生和彭太太显然对他们的食物很挑剔 Mr and Mrs Peng are clearly very particular about their food,
他们都很担心不按照传统食谱来做菜 and they both seem concerned I wont stick to the traditional recipe.
颜色浅的是用来调味 The light is used for seasoning,
增加咸味，而颜色深的用来调色，使菜变成褐色 for saltiness, and the dark is used for colour, to caramel it.
回锅肉有很多种 Theres so many different variations.
她喜欢用老抽，就是黑酱油 She likes to use the lao chou, which is the dark soy sauce,
而我喜欢混点生抽和老抽 but I like to mix a little bit the light and the dark.
我做这道菜的方式是，首先把黑豆豉 For my version of the dish, Im starting with fermented black beans,
和豆瓣酱混合，然后把它们放进热油里煎炸 mixing them with chilli bean paste, and frying them it all in hot oil.
回锅肉实质上是道炒菜 Twice-cooked pork is essentially a stir-fry dish,
用五花肉片 using slices of pork belly
肉片之前已经煮了半小时 that have already been boiled for half an hour.
我先倒入一点老抽 Im just going to add a little bit of the dark soy sauce
然后倒入点生抽 and a little bit of the light as well.
一点糖 Little bit of sugar.
因为只需要入锅一分钟左右，最后放入的配料 The last ingredient in, as they only need a minute or so,
是洋葱 are the spring onions.
我希望他们会喜欢 I hope theyre going to enjoy this.
他非常骄傲于四川经典，经典的回锅肉 Hes so proud of, you know, the Sichuan classic, classic Hui Guo Rou,
这对于他来说甚至都不够好 this isnt even good enough for him.
他说还行，有点咸，但不正宗 He said, its OK, its salty, but its not the real thing.
彭太太说这道菜很棒 Mrs Peng said it was good.
她给我们做过好多地道的川系肉菜 Mrs Peng has made us so many classic Sichuan pork dishes,
每一道的做法都很不同 each using a different cooking method.
这些菜摆你面前，你不觉得让人叹为观止吗？ Doesnt it look amazing, all the dishes together?
这些猪耳朵上的调味酱实在太棒了。 The dressing on this pigs ear is really good.
这菜是软骨，虽然嚼着嘎吱吱的， Its very crunchy, cartilegy,
但是很好吃。 but good.
这是彭先生的女儿 This is Mr Pengs daughter.
事实上，我想让她评价一下我的回锅肉做的怎么样 Actually, Im going to ask her what she thinks of my Hui Guo Rou,
我的回过锅的炒肉 my twice-cooked pork.
她说很好，也很入味。至少还是有人喜欢我做的菜的！ She said its good, got good taste. At least someone likes it!
和猪肉、花椒一样 As well as pork and flower pepper,
还有一味当地产的原料 theres another locally produced ingredient
组成了川菜的主要味型，并使得川菜声名大噪 that Sichuan has made famous and defines the tastes of the region.
呆着这里的几天里，我们遇到的每个人做菜都仰仗着它 In the few days weve been here, everyone weve met has relied on it.
如果说红辣椒和花椒是川菜的心脏的话 If chilli and Sichuan pepper are the heart of the Sichuan food,
那么豆瓣酱就是川菜的魂 then chilli bean paste is the soul.
这实在是难以置信 This is incredible.
我从来没见过相类似的东西 Ive never seen anything like this in my life.
我觉得自己好像走进了一块墓地或者是修道院 I feel like Im walking into a cemetery or a monastery
因为这里很有“禅”的味道 because its so Zen.
有点怪怪的，有点令人毛骨悚然 Its a bit spooky and eerie.
在成都郊外，郫县的这个工厂 At this factory in Pixian, just outside Chengdu,
他们祖辈传承制造着世界上最好的豆瓣酱 theyve been making the best chilli bean paste in the world
已经延续了有300多年了 for over 300 years.
这一坛已经陈放了2年了？ Two years, this one has been aged for?
这些已经放了3年，这些5年 They have three years and five years.
这些豆瓣酱的配料很简单，就3种 The paste is actually very simply made from just three ingredients -
蚕豆、红辣椒、盐 broad beans, red chillies and salt.
然后把它们放在这些陶土做的坛子里发酵 Its then left to ferment in these earthenware crocks
时间长达5年 for up to five years.
好的没话说了 That is really superb.
太棒了。尝着酸酸的、有点辣、还有点豆味 Its beautiful. Its sour, spicy, beany,
-味道很浓 -嗯 just really intense. Yes.
很有意思，我绝不会说它是辣椒酱 Its funny, I would never say this is chilli bean sauce.
明显的，辣椒酱不是这个色儿 Absolutely, its never this colour anyway,
其实也就是说，辣椒酱没能陈放这么久 so that means that they havent been aged as long.
质量嘛，老谭，我们用他的3年酱做了菜 The quality, Ken, that weve been cooking with is sub-standard,
那味道让我们差点误把他乡做故乡了 what we get back home.
酱的秘密全在四川连绵阴雨湿润的气候上了 The secret of this paste lies in the relentlessly damp Sichuan climate.
空气的湿度促进了发酵的进程 The humidity in the air helps the years of fermentation,
使得豆瓣酱有了完全不同于其他酱的味道 creating a chilli bean paste unlike any other.
这很像红酒。正如你所知，当我们酿酒时 Its a little bit like wine. You know, when we do wine,
我们都会谈及葡萄的产地 were talking about where the grapes come from,
法国人将这一点称为“产地的气候条件” the terroir, as the French say,
我认为产地气候对酱尤为重要，因为豆瓣酱是 and I think its very much this, because this is the heart
川菜的核心 of what Sichuan cooking is about.
这种湿润、多雾的气候 This kind of damp, foggy climate
制造出了浓郁的豆瓣酱 that makes this kind of moody chilli bean sauce
而正是豆瓣酱，成为了川菜的核心 thats the heart of this type of cooking.
我们停留在成都的这段时间里 During our time in Chengdu,
我们看到现代的中国正推动着历史 weve seen modern China pushing up against the past...
但在人民广场 ..but in the Peoples Park,
塔的近周都不允许现代建筑出现 the surrounding tower blocks are kept at bay,
所以那些有几百年历史的古迹可以岿然不动 and certain traditions that stretch back centuries remain unchanged.
成都在中国以其“悠闲”而闻名 Chengdu has a reputation as the most chilled-out city in China.
正如俗话说: As the saying goes here,
“头上晴天少，眼前茶馆多” "Sunny days are rare, but teahouses are abundant."
我母亲最让我记忆深刻的就是她对麻将的痴迷 One thing I really remember about my mum is her love of Mah-jong,
她能一坐几个小时的 and she could sit for hours just drinking tea
和她的朋友边喝茶边打麻将 and just playing with her friends.
她根本不可能分神他顾 You couldnt get her to pay any attention to anything.
在打牌的时候，她非常专注 When shes playing, shes focused on that.
尽管毛爷爷下令关闭茶馆 Despite Chairman Mao closing down teahouses
因为他觉得人群聚集会出事 because he felt gathering places posed a threat,
80年代初的时候茶馆还是陆续重新开张了 they re-opened in the early 80s
退休的中国人还是到这里找乐子 and the retired Chinese still come here to play.
当他们这样走的时候你听得到踢踏的声音 You hear the clack when they go like that...
他们说自己在洗牌 They call it washing the tiles.
当我开始放松休息的时候 Just as Im beginning to relax, a stranger offers me
一个陌生人过来要给我擦鞋 the Chinese equivalent of a shoeshine.
噢，我的天啊！他在头上带着一个，一个小小的探照灯！ Oh, my God! Hes got a little... Hes got a little flashlight on his head!
你感觉怎么样，爽吗？ What does it feel like, is it soothing?
不怎么爽，但是很有趣 Its not soothing, its very interesting.
挖藕，就是这种感觉！ Whoa, that is a sensation!
噢，他在按摩你的耳朵 Oh, hes massaging your ear.
他在按摩我的耳朵，我喜欢 Hes massaging my ear, I love it!
当每天茶馆生活都周而复始 While the rituals of teahouse life may remain unchanged
每天打太极的人也是不紧不慢的时候 and where once I wouldve expected to see the gentle rhythm of Tai Chi,
如今，人们正在适应着一种新的节奏 today, people are moving to a different beat.
蹦兹哒兹～蹦兹哒兹～ DANCE MUSIC BLARES
这些舞步向我展现着我早些年在中国从没感受过的自由 The dancing reflects a newfound freedom that I hadnt sensed
当我1989年来到中国的时候 when I came here in 1989.
那时，中国仍然处在被世界孤立的状态 Then, China was still emerging from a period of long isolation
和文革的创伤之中 and the trauma of the Cultural Revolution,
毛爷爷想要使得共产思想遍及河山 Maos attempt to impose Communist ideas throughout the country
于是造成了60-70年代的社会不安定与饥荒 in the 1960s and 70s resulted in chaos and famine.
生活的方方面面都受到了影响，于是配给制被引入 Every aspect of life was affected. Rationing was introduced,
烹调的艺术被闲置了，许多人逃到了国外 the art of cooking was abandoned, and many people fled the country.
李主厨是粤菜的行政主厨 Chef Lis our Cantonese Executive Chef.
人们都爱他，他18岁的时候逃到了香港 People like Chef Li. He escaped to Hong Kong when he was 18,
但是数年前，当内地变得优渥时又他回到了成都 but returned to Chengdu ten years ago, as life began to improve.
为什么你从大陆去了香港？
因为以前中国里头比较生路比较迷茫
有的游水啊
你没有游水去香港吗？
游水过去的
-你啊游水过去的？真的？ -真的
他是游着到香港去的！ Oh, he swam! He swam to Hong Kong!
你游水游好久啊？
游水游两三个钟头
一定很危险
我还是没办法嘛
为了去香港，死都不怕！
这太让人吃惊了 Wow, that is amazing.
李主厨回来以后感觉很好 It feels good that Chef Li has returned to China.
他回来以后默默工作 The influence of chefs like him has done so much
带起了饮食文化的复苏 to re-invigorate the food culture here.
他同意帮助我做一道我最喜欢的菜 He agrees to give me a hand to make one of my favourite dishes,
五香脆皮鸭 crispy aromatic duck.
在英国，我们这样做，我们把鸭子买回来 What we do in the UK is, we take the duck
塞入五香料并在皮上抹上四川辣椒 and we put things like five-spice and Sichuan peppercorn on it
以及盐，现在才真正开始 and salt, but here is sort of the real thing.
干腌料是可以随性放的 For the dry marinade, its OK to improvise the ingredients,
但是一般要有盐和鸡精 but the base usually starts with salt and chicken stock powder.
同时，在四川你当然还要放大量的辣椒 And, of course, were in Sichuan, so you add chillies, lots of it,
然后最重要的来了 and then the most important thing are these
可爱的四川干辣椒，他们确实很辣 lovely Sichuan peppercorns. Really quite powerful.
他说，“把它们都塞进去！” He said, "Put it all in!"
剩下的配料还有砂仁、姜 The rest of the marinade - including cardamom, ginger,
茴香籽以及月桂叶-把它们全部塞进去 fennel seeds and bay leaves - are rubbed in,
然后把鸭子放上3个小时让它入味 then the duck is left for three hours to absorb the flavours.
做这道菜的秘诀就是先把鸭子蒸 The trick to this dish is to steam the duck first
45分钟，然后让它放干 for about 45 minutes, then to let it dry,
最后，用油炸至金黄皮脆即可 and finally, to deep-fry it until the skin is crisp and golden.
中国人爱啃骨头 Chinese like to gnaw on the bone
因为他们认为那是最有味道的地方 because we feel that thats where all the flavour is.
各种配料渗透了鸭肉 The marinade permeates the duck meat,
这就是为什么它呈红色的原因 and thats what makes it red.
太漂亮了 Absolutely beautiful.
世间哪得几回闻啊 Out of this world.
这比我们的五香酥脆鸭难做的多 Its much more complex than the aromatic crispy duck
比我们在英国做的 that we get in the UK.
很有趣，你甚至吃不出辣味或者其他一些相似的味道 Its funny, you dont even taste the chillies, and things like that,
但是它确实是一种精妙的味道的混合 but its a very sophisticated mixture of flavours here.
太出色了！ Outstanding!
四川省或许是中国少数几个厨艺大省吧 Sichuan Province may be one of Chinas culinary hotspots,
但是来四川的固定行程 but no trip here is complete without a visit
一定包含了造访这些成都最有名的市民 to see Chengdus most famous residents.
哦，我的天啊，他们太萌了 Oh, my God, they are so funny!
看起来都觉得不是真的，像是有人穿了演出服扮的 Its like they dont look real. Theyre so human-like.
你都会认为可能随时 You think at any moment,
他就脱掉演出服走掉了，“哒哒” someone is going to take the mask off and go, "Da-da!"
我爱那个爬在树上的 I love the one in the tree.
这家熊猫基地是大多数国外熊猫原来的家 This panda sanctuary is home to most of the worlds panda population,
这里至少来说，你能感觉到生活能保持不变 and here, at least, you feel that life will remain unchanged.
-这就是值得来的原因 -嗯 This was worth the trip here. Yeah.
熊猫为成都带来了巨大的吸引力 Pandas are a massive draw for Chengdu,
尤其对于中国的游客，但我们还有最后一个地方要去呢 particularly for Chinese tourists, but we have one last place to go.
这是一个能把我们吃过的川菜 Its a place where our experience of Sichuan food traditions
升级到一个新的高度之地 are brought together and elevated to a new level.
喔，我都等不及了！我知道 Oh, I cant wait! I know!
是【喻家厨房】 Yus Family Kitchen
它是成都最高档餐厅中的一家 is one of Chengdus most celebrated restaurants.
好漂亮，小刺猬 Thats so beautiful, little hedgehogs.
给我们掌勺的是这位，主厨喻波 The food is the work of this man, Chef Yu Bo.
他环游世界 Hes travelled the world, gathering ideas
收集了各种烹调的灵感和创意 and inspiration for his cooking.
现在他享誉海内外 And now hes receiving acclaim both at home and abroad
因为他对川菜的现代创意改良 for his modern twists on traditional Sichuan dishes.
我在中国还没见过这种对传统菜式的创新 I havent seen such an innovative approach to traditional food
中国其他地方都看不到 anywhere in China.
它看起来太漂亮了，我都下不去嘴 It looks so beautiful, I dont want to eat it,
它看起来就是一件艺术品 because it looks like a work of art!
这些点心内陷包满了甜甜的红豆泥 These pastry brushes are filled with a sweet red bean paste.
没有什么比这个能更好的证明 It couldnt be a better demonstration
这个国家对现代厨艺的自信了 of the new culinary confidence in the country.
挖藕！ Wow!
卖相太漂亮了，我等不及要试试它的味道了 Presentation is fantastic, I cant wait to try it.
他是天才，真正的天才！ Hes a genius, real genius.
这好像是一个很好的机会 This feels like an incredible opportunity to try out
来尝试我在这发现的各种烹调技法 some of the cooking techniques Ive discovered here,
同时还是由一个中国最好的厨师掌勺的 on one of the best chefs in China.
我想要做一种传统味道的融合，只在四川独有的味型 I want to use a traditional flavour combination, unique to Sichuan.
他们称之为“怪味” Its called guaiwei, its called strange flavour,
事实上就是所有味道的融合 and actually, its a combination of all these flavours,
像豆瓣酱、芝麻酱、醋、糖 like the chilli bean paste, some sesame paste, vinegar, sugar.
你懂的，所有的味道的聚合 You know, sort of all brought together.
好吧，让我们看看怎么做，看起来像一种酱 So well just see how it goes. Its like a dressing.
准确来说，它看起来像一种调味酱 It is like a dressing, exactly.
我还蛮紧张的，因为这些大厨 Im kind of nervous because all the chefs here
做菜都很专业，但我的技术貌似很挫 work with such precision and my dish is a bit more rustic.
我的怪味沙拉 My guaiwei strange flavour salad
估计尝起来辣辣酸酸的、有点甜还有芝麻香 will taste spicy, sour, sweet and nutty.
同时它还伴着腌黄瓜 Its a take on a Sichuan classic, smacked cucumber.
你拍碎它，就是要它裂开 You just smash it, it just bruises it
然后味道才能渗进去 and it starts to allow you to sort of put the flavours together,
就是要把调味酱的味道弄进去 you know, absorb flavours of dressings.
真的是按照当地做法做出来的沙拉哦 Its quite a local way of doing a salad.
我把黄瓜切成大块 Im cutting the cucumber into large pieces,
加入切片芥菜心，西兰花茎也行 adding sliced mustard green hearts - broccoli stems would work too -
然后是一些切好的蒜苗最后再加进去 and some finely chopped garlic shoots to add at the end.
那些调味酱，也就是那些怪味酱 For the dressing, the strange flavour sauce is actually
是由冰糖、红醋、生抽做成的 a mix of icing sugar, with black rice vinegar and light soy sauce.
这是中国的千岛酱吧 Its a sort of Chinese vinaigrette.
我还往里面加了花生酱 To that, Im adding some smooth peanut butter,
它让沙拉增添了花生的香味，然后是芝麻酱 which gives a lovely, rich nutty flavour, and then sesame paste.
这些蔬菜全部扔进调好的酱汁里 The vegetables are tossed in the dressing
让后把蒜苗撒在上面 and the garlic shoots sprinkled on top.
放蒜苗 Lay the garlic shoots.
最后，是放最重要的当地风味—花椒 Finally, the key regional flavours - Sichuan flower pepper
以及豆瓣酱，先要用油在火上爆炒出香味 and chilli bean paste - fried in hot oil to release the flavours,
我从Jenny的婶婶那学到的小妙招是，从顶上倒热油 a trick I learned from Jennys aunt, poured over the top.
就是这种冷热碰撞 So sort of a hot and cold.
最重要的是，辣椒油 And to top it off, chilli oil.
黄瓜沙拉从来没有这个样子的 Boy, cucumber salad has never been the same.
多加一些花椒面 And more ground Sichuan flower pepper.
他们看起来很惊人 That looks amazing...
很可爱 That looks lovely!
沙拉尝起来很好、嘎嘣脆、很清爽 Its a nice, crunchy, refreshing texture.
我还想要它，嗯 I expected it to be...
更辣？ More hot?
嗯，它没有我想的辣 Yes, but its not as hot as I thought it would be.
他说，“你现在教会了我，我以后会试着做的” He said, "Now that youve taught me, in future, I will definitely try."
很好！哇！ Thats good. Wow!
成都或许是中国变化最快的都市 Chengdu might be the fastest changing city in China,
但是我们的时间都花在感受传统上了 but our time here has been dominated by a sense of the traditional.
之前，过去的几天 Before, in the past,
当我来到中国，我感到一丝丝的不适应 when I have come to China, Ive felt a little bit that I dont fit in,
但是现在，我感到我很自在 but this time, I feel a little bit more comfortable in my own skin.
做中国菜，使我有机会 Cooking Chinese food, thats made me have
深入欣赏中国文化 a real deep appreciation for Chinese culture.
我对自己来到中国感到很值 I could definitely envisage myself coming here
还耗费大量时间，尤其是成都之旅 and spending a lot more time here, especially in Chengdu.
这里的厨师将烹调带入了另一个境界 The chef here has taken things on another level,
我认为这还仅仅是冰山的一角 and I think were only seeing the tip of the iceberg
关于中国发生着什么样的变化 about whats really happening in China.
下一集… Next time...
看起来是古代中世纪的城市 Looks like an ancient medieval city.
她坐落于中国的边陲 Its really on the far fringes of China.
我们将探索中国隐藏的另一面，感受独特的中国 ..well explore a hidden side of China that feels distinctly un-Chinese.
从野性的西部 From the Wild West...
这就像倒退了2000年 This is like stepping back 2,000 years.
到热带雨林 ..to the tropical jungle.
看看那个鸡的头 Look at the chicken head.
这一部分中国传统我很不喜欢 Theres some Chinese traditions I dont like.
我们来发现中华民族是如何现代化的 And we find out how Chinas race to modernity
正在影响着这些古代文化 is affecting these ancient cultures.
这就是中国的迪士尼乐园 Its sort of a Chinese Disneyland.
英文字幕由Red Bee Media Ltd提供 Subtitles by Red Bee Media Ltd