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中国 世界五分之一人口的家园 China, home to one in five of the planets population.
令全球敬畏的超级大国 但却鲜有人真正了解 The superpower the world fears, but few really know.
谭荣辉是中国菜的教父 Ken Hom is the Godfather of Chinese food.
人间天堂 Heaven on Earth.
三十余年前 他把锅引入了西方 He introduced the wok to the West more than 30 years ago.
你要这样烧才行 This is the way you should be cooking it.
黄瀞亿则是下一代中餐厨师的领头人 Ching He Huang is leading the next generation of Chinese cooks...
接下来我要剁下它的头 Im just going to chop off the head.
她的烹饪手法时尚又匠心独运 ..with a modern, inventive approach to the cuisine.
这就像春日里野鸭游水嬉戏 Its like ducks playing in springtime.
我们即将开始一段绝无仅有的旅行 借由饮食走访中国 Were taking a once-in-a-lifetime adventure across China through food...
兔头 尝尝看 Rabbit head. Shall we try one?
探寻这个古老国家最深处的灵魂 ..to delve into its heart and soul.
摔 然后拉 Bang it, pull it.
饮食 是了解中国文化最好的途径 Food is the best way to explore Chinese culture,
因为我们为食而生存 because we really live to eat.
这是一场史诗般的旅程 Its an epic trip,
横跨3000英里 从东部繁华的都市 3,000 miles from the megacities of the East
到西部荒凉的 被遗忘的村落 to the forgotten villages of the Wild West.
这感觉像是回到了成吉思汗那个时代 Its like going back to the time of Genghis Khan.
她就这样把它的头掐掉了 Shes just decapitated it!
我们会发现一些熟悉的味道 还有很多秘密及惊喜…… Well uncover the familiar, the secret and the surprising...
哇 我以前从来没见过这样的 Wow, Ive never seen that done before!
做一些简单却味美的佳肴 ..cook simple and delicious dishes...
这是我的四川腊肠 That is my Sichuan sausage.
揭开中国过去以及现在的秘密 ..and reveal the secrets of China, old and new.
这就像我梦境中一直出现的那场旅行 Its like a journey that Ive always dreamt about,
那场中国之旅 but in a China Ive dreamt about.
发现中国：美食之旅 第三集
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翻译：阿宅 老看经 crazyman-110 时间轴：beautysia scgawyw
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校对：羊咩咩昂昂 ivanka hypy
我们离开中国东部的繁华都市 We've left the heaving mega cities of eastern China far behind...'
是的 Yes!
向着西部幅员辽阔的 '..to embark on an intrepid journey across China's vast
边陲之地进军 'western frontier.'
我们好像来到了一个中世纪古城 It looks like an ancient medieval city we've come to.
这真的是中国最边远之地 It's really on the far fringes of China.
我们行驶了3000英里 从云南热带雨林到 We're travelling 3,000 miles, from the tropical jungle of Yunnan,
截然不同的穆斯林城市——喀什 to the deeply-divided Muslim city of Kashgar.
中国55个少数民族大多居于这些地区 These regions are home to many of China's 55 ethnic minorities,
占了中国人口的10％ who make up almost 10% of the population.
从历史来看 Historically,
这些少民曾被视为是政权统治的威胁 these minorities were seen as a threat to the realm by Han emperors.
此行 我们想探寻少数民族的文化和烹饪传统在现代中国命运如何 We want to discover the fate of their culture and cuisines in modern China.
我觉得很美妙 －像是一种仪式 I think it's beautiful - it's like a ritual.
我们在云南度过了第一个星期 We're spending our first week in Yunnan province
云南位于中国西南 in southwest China,
接壤越南,老挝和缅甸 on the border with Vietnam, Laos and Burma.
啊 我们到啦 -是的 非常美丽 Ah, we're here! Yeah, it's beautiful!
这里是元坪村 是七世纪时定居于云南的少数民族 This is Yuanping village, home to the Dai minority,
傣族的故乡 who settled in Yunnan in the seventh century.
这个就是村长么 Is this the village chief?
像柏王建这样的部族首领已经统治了傣族村落几个世纪 Tribal chiefs like Bo Wangjian have been head of Dai villages for centuries.
如今部落首领的选举已由曾经的世袭制 变为村民直选 Once an hereditary post, today chiefs are elected by villagers
并上报当地政府 and report to their district Communist Party government.
这些村民的生活远离现代化便利设施 These families live in homes with few modern conveniences.
这是房子吗 This is the house?
没有电 做饭就是简单的生个火 With no electricity, cooking takes place over a simple open fire.
哇 很简陋的厨房 不是么 -我想在这里烹饪 Wow, it's a limited kitchen, huh?-I'd like to cook here.
好棒啊 That's wonderful.
请告诉他 我们想在这儿烧菜 Tell him we'd like to cook
和他共享我们对烹饪 and share with him our love of cooking,
特别是对当地的一些食材的喜爱 and especially the ingredients that you find here.
一会儿我们将为村长下厨 但在此之前 我们先去了 We'll be cooking for the chief later, but first we're heading out
当地的农田 了解傣族的风土人情 into the local farmland to learn more about the Dai way of life.
我喜欢他们用溪流灌溉田地的方式 What I like is how they take the creek, how they irrigate the field.
我太喜欢这种方式了 I like that very much.
傣族人是中国最早耕种水稻的人之一 The Dai people were one of the first cultivators of rice in China.
今天 如同中国一亿两千八百万的赤贫农民一样 Today, like 128 million of China's rural poor,
元坪村的村民一天生活费不足一英镑 the villagers of Yuanping live on less than a pound a day.
为了生存 他们必须得善用身边一切可用之物 To survive, they must utilise everything in their environment.
当地的林木工人证明了他们的足智多谋 These local foresters prove just how resourceful they must be.
你知道他们是怎么砍竹子的吗 How do they know how to, you know, harvest bamboo?
因为这看起来很技术流 他们的刀工太赞了 Cos it is a skill, cos their knife skills are incredible.
竹 坚韧如钢 有时却又那么灵活 This is as strong as steel. And it's flexible, too.
而且它们可以被重复利用-是的 绝对的 And it can be reused again and again. Yeah, absolutely.
云南有二百五十多种不同种类的竹 Yunnan has 250 types of bamboo
傣族人对竹子的利用也很独特 and the Dai villagers have found ingenious uses for it
用竹造房 搭桥 做农具 from building houses, bridges and farm tools
还可做食材和药材 to making food and medicine.
对这些常待大山深处辛勤工作的林木工人来说 For these foresters, who spend long hours working up the mountains,
一棵竹子 就可以为他们提供 one bamboo tree will provide them with all the kitchen utensils
制作一顿午饭所需的全部厨房器具 they need to make lunch on the go.
这个碗很大 看这个 这也是他们做的 It's a big bowl. Look at this - they've made these, as well.
我喜欢这个 我也想要一个 I like this. I want one of these.
现在他们在做筷子 Now they are making chopsticks
啊 太有才啦 竹筷 Oh brilliant! Bamboo chopsticks!
太神奇啦 没准他们还能给我们做个竹蒸笼带回家 Amazing - can they make us a bamboo steamer to take home, as well?
这里的一切都是可持续的 纯天然 Everything here is sustainable, natural!
他正在用竹竿做两个午餐用的盘子 'The men are making two dishes for lunch using the bamboo stalks.'
所以首先 是香料 哇 So first, the aromatics. Wow!
看起来太棒了 Yum! That looks great.
第一道菜是五香炖鸡 'First is a fragrant chicken stew
配料有辣椒 姜和越南薄荷 'with chilli, ginger and Vietnamese mint.
把食材都塞入竹筒 'The ingredients are stuffed inside the bamboo stalk,
再加水 接着用卷起的香蕉叶 'water is added, then rolled-up banana leaves are used
塞住筒口密封以此保持食物水分 'to seal the contents to keep in the moisture.'
这表明了中国文化和饮食的全部内涵 This shows what Chinese civilisation and food is all about.
太巧妙了 It's ingenious,
因为它完美的利用了身边一切可用之物 because it's using everything from your environment in a nice way.
第二道菜 由塞入小竹筒内的 'The second dish is made of glutinous rice and peanuts,
糯米和花生烹调而成 'which are packed inside a smaller bamboo stalk.'
我奶奶常说 别浪费粮食 My grandmother always said, "Don't waste rice,"
因为你知道的 谁知盘中餐 粒粒皆辛苦 because you know each grain of rice is like a bead of sweat,
每一粒米的收获都饱含艰辛 because it takes such hard work and back breaking to collect each grain.
他说现在你可以做饭了 耶 Now he said you can cook it, yeah!
所有的竹筒都得放到明火上 'Both bamboo stalks are put on the open fire
烹调半个小时 'to cook for about half an hour.'
这对我来说是件新鲜事 It's certainly a new thing for me.
我从来没见过如此神奇的事情 I've never seen anything like this, and I think it's fantastic.
他在搅拌 Oh, he's stirring!
在我看来这种烹饪传统传统表明了中国仍旧是农耕为主 I think this ritual shows that China is still very agrarian.
虽然差不多一半人口迁移到了城镇 Almost half the population has moved to the urban areas,
但是他们依然传承着宝贵的农业遗产 but still it has a very rich, agricultural heritage,
这种烹饪方式正是如此 and I think this type of ritual expresses that.
炖鸡做好了 -已经好了么 Chicken is done! Oh, it's finished?
鸡汤 看起来不错 Chicken soup. That looks good.
太赞了 Oh, wonderful.
我看到鸡头了 There goes the head!
现在他要劈开竹筒了 Now he's going to crack it open.
他正在劈开竹筒 He's cracking it open.
看起来不错 哇! Oh, that looks good. 哇!
你可以尝出所有香料的味道 You can taste all the herbs.
还有点辣 太美味了 It's spicy, too. That's wonderful.
极品 That is really wonderful.
还有一股竹子的清香 There is that bamboo fragrance...
味道太与众不同了 Which is very unusual
那种清淡的芳香太美妙了 and that really beautiful delicate sweetness
美味极了 It's beautiful.
他们有自己的传统 能把这种传统传承下去实在太棒了 They have their tradition, and it's nice that they maintain it.
最年长的这位要吃 The eldest here!
谢谢 Oh, thank you
中国有些传统 我是真的爱不起来啊 There's some Chinese traditions I don't like.
午饭后 我们回到了村落 'After lunch, we head back to the village
为招待我们的村长准备晚饭 'to prepare dinner for our host, the chief.
当黄瀞亿和村落里的女人们一起 去河边抓鱼时 'Whilst Ching and the women go river fishing for some of tonight's ingredients...'
我开始做这只鸡 '..I start on the chicken.'
你得先这样切 You must cut, like here.
就一刀 先放血 这些鸡血也不浪费 Just one, and you let it bleed and the blood is not wasted,
因为你可以放点盐 because you put it with salt
然后鸡血就会冻住 像布丁一样 and you can make a sort of blood pudding with it.
用它来炖汤或是炒菜都可以 It goes in soup, or is stir-fried.
你感觉不到它的心跳了 You can't feel the heart beating any more.
就是这样 And that's it.
我以前给主厨上课 教他们这样做时 I did that when I taught professional chefs how to cook,
一半以上的人差点晕过去 and half the class almost fainted,
另外一半去找院长投诉我了 and the other half went to complain to the dean,
院长对我说 老谭 以后别搞这玩意了 and the dean said to me, "Ken, please don't ever do that again!"
但是如果你真想了解食物 But, if you want to really learn about food,
就必须要接受它的一切 无论好坏 I think you have to take the good and the bad.
你不能仅仅只会去超市 然后说 我要吃鸡 You just can't go to the supermarket and say, eat chicken,
你必须要知道怎么杀鸡 you have to know how it's killed.
如果你不喜欢 觉得困扰 那就别吃了 If you don't like it, it bothers you, then don't eat it.
就这么简单 Simple as that.
我和村长准备用这只整鸡做道 'The chief and I are going to cook a dish each with this chicken
可供十个人共享的菜肴 'to feed ten people.
这和你在英国相比确实微不足道 'This might look small compared to what you'd find in Britain,
和中国人相比 在英国 'where we eat on average three times more chicken
我们平均每人吃的鸡是他们三倍之多 'per person than the Chinese.
但在有十多亿张嘴要养活的中国 'But in a country where there are over one billion mouths to feed,
英国那种吃法显然太不现实 'that kind of consumption is unsustainable.'
肉和菜一起搭配 Meat is to garnish the veggies.
在西方 吃素是第二种选择 In the West, veggies are a second thought.
人们大都是肉食主义 You usually have a big piece of meat,
把所有的蔬菜都看成是第二选择 then you have all these vegetables that are a second thought,
而我们都知道 这对健康有害 and as we know, that's not good for your health.
对我来说 这真的是教训啊 To me, that's really the lessons.
我觉得西方应该学学中国的饮食习惯 I think the West can learn from Chinese dietary practices.
我要做的是爆炒鸡肉 'I'm cooking a chicken stir-fry,
这道菜 最正宗 最聪明的傣族本地做法 'which, in true, resourceful Dai style,
要用到我所处之地方圆五十码以内的所有食材 'is using ingredients sourced within 50 yards of where I'm standing.
连酱汁和腌菜汁都是自家亲手做的 'Even the sauce for the marinade is home-made.'
我问村长 能给我点米酒么 I asked the chief, "Can I have some rice wine?"
而我手上拿的这瓶正是他自家酿制的 And this is a home-made brew that he makes!
天 如果喝了这个 我估计就不能继续做菜了 Phew, God, if I taste this, I won't be able to cook!
天 这简直-哇! Ooh! That's - wow!
我还是把它留给小鸡吧 I think I'd better give it to the chicken!
接下来我将把鸡放入用生抽和村长酿制的米酒调和而成的卤汁里 'I'm leaving the chicken to marinate for half an hour in light soy sauce
腌制半个小时 'and the chief's home-brewed rice wine.'
傣族的女人们负责为村子捕鱼 'The Dai ladies do all the fishing for their village.
云南有六百多条多大小河湖 'There are more than 600 rivers and lakes in Yunnan,
这些河流为数百万人提供食物和水 'with millions of people depending on them for food and water.'
我从未见过如此独特的捕鱼方式 I've never seen this unique way of fishing.
他们把岩石翻上来去找鱼 They're just upturning rocks and getting really in there.
但这真是一个妙招 But it's a very clever technique,
网在两脚之间就像三明治那样 cos you kind of sandwich the net between your feet,
然后用手 then you use your hands
拨开水草 to bring the vegetation
河床就被网住了 and the sea bed into the net.
哇哦 Oh! Oh!
她抓到了两个 She's got two big quans!
这是一种淡水鱼 It's just a river fish.
螃蟹 Crab?
生活在中国的贫困线以下 傣族妇女们 'Living below China's official poverty line, the Dai women
不能放过河流里任何可以提供营养的食物 'can't afford to overlook any potential source of protein in the river.'
她说你可以尝尝这个 She said that you can eat this.
这看起来像奇怪的水生蜈蚣 It looks like some weird river centipede thing!
我想说 额 I was like, "Eurgh!"
她就这样把头掐掉了 Ah! She's just decapitated it!
你可以尝尝看 她说 这个很好吃 "You can eat that," she said, "it's delicious."
她们对大自然真的非常敬畏 They really have a respect for the environment.
她们说 她们不会每天都来捕鱼 They said they don't fish every day.
这意味着 给这些河流有足够的恢复期 Which means they give the river a chance to recover,
让鱼得以继续繁衍生存 and the fish to thrive.
目前 这些鱼对于傣族女人们来说 是安全的 For the time being, the women are safe to fish in these waters.
但是这可能并不会延续太久 But this might not be the case for much longer,
因为近几年 云南的很多水域都受到了 because in recent years, many of Yunnan's waterways have become
来自40英里之远的城市污染 contaminated with pollution from its cities, less than 40 miles away.
回到梅的家里 我们开始处理这些河鲜 Back at Mei's house, we're going to prepare our river catch.
很多鱼还是活着的 A lot of the fish are still alive.
看到没 就一刀 Did you see that? Just with one knife cut,
她取出了内脏 she guts it.
肠子肚子这些都不要了 And gets rid of the intestines, and the belly,
就一刀 即使这些鱼那么小 in one fell knife swoop, even though the fish is so small.
她把那种蜈蚣的头和尾巴都去掉了 She just rips the head off, and the tail off the sort of centipede.
我来到中国 想加深自己对中国烹饪文化的了解 'I came to China to expand my knowledge of Chinese cooking.
比如怎样取蜈蚣内脏这种 'Learning how to gut a centipede is certainly doing that.'
她说女人都会做饭 She said women know how to cook,
而男人则负责洗盘子 我听懂了那部分 and also that the men wash the dishes. I understood that bit.
男人不懂这些 Men don't understand -
他们就知道怎么吃 they only know how to eat.
我这里有一些小河鱼和傣族本地的大蒜 So I've got here the small river fish and local garlic,
是野生大蒜 还有一些姜 wild garlic, some ginger,
小辣椒 也是当地产的辣椒 some small chillies, the local chillies,
还有越南薄荷 and then there's the Vietnamese mint,
他们还加了一些香菜 and then they've got here some coriander as well,
然后是葱 and then some spring onion.
我准备用鱼和香蕉叶做一道正宗的傣族菜 'I'm going to make a classic Dai dish of fish cooked in banana leaves.'
要仔细的剁碎 Just finely chop it.
我奶奶通常是剥掉姜皮 My grandmother would always peel it,
中国人都这么认为 把姜剥皮 and the Chinese believe that when you peel ginger,
做出来的饭就是偏阳性 it becomes more heat-giving property, more Yang. More fiery.
留着皮就是偏阴性 If you keep the ginger skin on, then it makes the dish more Yin,
是凉性的 it's more cooling.
首先我把剁碎的姜蒜和辣椒涂在香蕉叶上 'First, I put chopped ginger, garlic and chilli onto a banana leaf,
我的副厨仔细的检查着 并给我提建议 'closely scrutinized by my sous chef, who is keen to offer tips.'
她说 “要剁碎 把所有佐料剁碎掺在一起 She said, "Chop it, chop all the herbs together
剁得碎碎的” 换了我就都直接掺一块儿了 "so it's really fine." I would have just thrown it all together,
他们也通常这么做 but this is the way they're used to doing.
我们把这些都放在香蕉叶上 像这样 OK, so we put this all on the leaf, like that.
用香蕉叶裹住食物 'Wrapping the food in a banana leaf
像烤箱用的箔纸那样锁住水分和香味 'seals in moisture and flavour, much like foil or oven-proof paper.'
然后扎住 And then, you just tie it.
同梅和她家人的相处把我带回了 'Being here with Mei and her family takes me back to my childhood
被两个严厉的家庭大厨监管的童年—— 'under the supervision of two other formidable family cooks -
我的奶奶和妈妈 'my grandmother and mother.'
她用竹子固定住包裹 So she's just securing the package within some bamboo?
我打算清蒸 但是我的副厨却有其他建议 'I'm planning to steam the fish, but my sous chef has other ideas.'
这就是他们平时的烹饪方式 Oh, then that's how they would normally cook it!
她说这样会更好吃 She said it's tastier like this than steaming it.
她说蒸的不太好吃 She said, if you steam it, it doesn't taste very good!
20分钟了 梅给了我一道开胃菜 'While it cooks for 20 minutes, Mei offers me an appetiser.'
这是小蜈蚣 This is a baby. This is the centipede.
她抓的水蜈蚣 'The water centipedes she caught at the river have been
用辣椒姜和草药等香辛料煮着 'boiled in a spicy broth of chillies, ginger and herbs.'
她说 别害怕 尝尝 She said, "Don't be afraid, just eat it!"
吃起来像对虾 It's like texture like prawns.
像小河虾那样 It's like river prawn texture, river shrimp.
实际上并不那么糟糕 It's not bad. It's not bad, actually.
在村长家 'At the chief's house,
他正在身体力行的说明 并非所有男人在厨房里都是废柴 'he's doing his bit to prove not all men are useless in the kitchen.
他用姜和辣椒做鸡汤 'He's making chicken soup with ginger and chilli.'
这道菜相对来说比较简单 This dish is relatively simple.
他很聪明的没有做更复杂的事 He's very smart not to do anything complicated!
但是我觉得人们没有意识到 在家做饭时 But I think people don't realise, when you're cooking at home,
应该做到简单精致 you should keep it really nice and simple.
我用辣椒和蒜做了一道我最喜欢的菜 'I'm using chilli and garlic to make one of my favourite dishes -
用新鲜的草本植物爆炒鸡肉 'chicken stir-fry with fresh herbs.'
我准备把鸡放进去 I'm just going to put my chicken in.
然后加上卤汁 Adding the marinade in there...
然后加我喜欢的草本植物 ..and I'm going to add all my lovely herbs here.
这就是我喜欢中国菜的原因 你只需要一口锅 'This is what I love about Chinese food. All you need is a wok,
一把火和新鲜的佐料就能做出一道美味 'a flame and fresh ingredients to make a simple and delicious supper.
我用鸡肉做出了一道云南经典菜 'To go with the chicken, I'm making a classic Yunnan dish.
菠萝饭 'Pineapple rice.'
姜和少许盐 Ginger, a little bit of salt.
然后开始做米 Then we do our rice.
这道菜的关键是先把生米煮一下 'The key ingredient in this dish is pre-cooked cold rice,
理论上要先（把煮过的米）放一天 用热油烹 'ideally a day old, stir-fried in very hot oil.
把米块打碎 充分搅拌 'To break up the clumps, give the rice a good stir.'
然后加上凤梨和新鲜薄荷 'Then add the pineapple and fresh mint.
柴木给了这个菜增加了烟熏的美味 'The wood fire gives it a lovely smoky flavour.
用当地新鲜的佐料 'With fresh local ingredients,
使这种传统的家常菜达到极致 'this is traditional village cooking at its best.
在泰国 我们说【ＨＯＭ】 这是什么意思 In Thailand, we say "hom". What mean "hom"?
是芳香—如果味道好闻 Fragrant - if something smells good,
我们说HOM -HOM we say "hom". "Hom"?
芳香 我们准备好了 Fragrant? We are ready.
等女人们弄好鱼就好了 Just have to wait for Ching and the rest of the women for the fish.
大家都饿了 Yeah, everyone is hungry.
这是香蕉叶 那是鱼 So this is the banana leaf wrap, that's the fish.
很不错 Ah, beautiful!
她说这个不错 She says it's very good!
这是村长做的鸡汤 This is a soup the chief made,
这是菠萝饭 and this is pineapple rice.
你知道你吃的是什么么 -不 -蜈蚣啊 You know what you just ate? No. It's a centipede.
多有意思的美味 Oh! That's an interesting flavour!
尝起来有点甜 It's quite sweet.
恩 但我觉得我不会天天吃这个 Yes, but I wouldn't order it every day.
这个米太好吃了 Wow, this rice is delicious!
他们对自产食材的充分利用 So inspired by their use of the local ingredients,
自己抓鱼这种方式启发了我 fishing for your own fish.
最新鲜也不过如此了 太棒了不是么 You can't get fresher than that. Isn't that wonderful?
这里的人真的是亲近土地 -是的 接近自然 They're really close to the earth. Nature. Yes.
停留云南的第二天 'It's our second day in Yunnan Province,
我们在家庭旅馆享受了传统的早餐 'and we're enjoying a traditional breakfast at the guesthouse.'
看看她的衣服 太漂亮了 Look at her outfit, so beautiful.
这个看起来像某种蔬菜 是蕨菜 That looks like some sort of vegetable. It's fiddlehead fern.
我喜欢这个 辣椒 像在泰国一样-大蒜 辣椒 And I love it - chillies, like in Thailand. Garlic, chillies.
至今为止 这是我在中国吃到的最不寻常的早饭 This is the most unusual breakfast I've had in China, so far.
在中国 云南被认为是茶的 This is supposed to be the birthplace of tea,
发源地 in the whole of China.
所以能在云南喝到普洱茶让我很兴奋 So I'm excited to try the pu-erh tea,
因为这是我最喜欢的茶之一 cos that's one of my favourite teas.
它对身体很有益处 清肠润肺 It's awfully good for you, it's very cleansing,
还能帮助你降低胆固醇 and it helps to lower cholesterol,
预防心脏病－好处多多 and helps prevent heart disease - all these good things!
普洱茶 以云南省一个小镇的名字命名 Pu-erh tea, named after a town in Yunnan, came to prominence
自1300年前被唐代皇帝品过后美名远扬 when it was drunk by emperors during the Tang Dynasty, 1,300 years ago.
如今 普洱茶已是价值几百万英镑的全球出口产业 Today it's a global export industry worth millions of pounds.
不像大多数出产不久便失去新鲜的茶 Unlike most teas which can lose their freshness soon after production,
普洱茶是经过发酵的 这提升了普洱的口感 pu-erh tea is fermented, which improves the taste,
质感以及香味 texture and aroma.
最抢手的普洱茶可能需要30年才能成熟 The most sought-after pu-erh teas can take 30 years to mature
一杯这样的茶能够卖到上万元 and one cup of leaves can reach up to ?,000.
两小时行程之后 After a two-hour journey,
我到达了张郎镇的一个小村庄 I arrive at the tiny village of Zhanglang,
布朗族的家园 其种植 home to the Bulang minority, who have been growing,
管理 收获茶的历史已经绵延几千年 tending and harvesting tea for thousands of years.
你看 这儿有些茶正在太阳下晾晒 Oh look! There's some tea being dried in the sun!
这里是云南极不发达的地区 It's a very underdeveloped part of Yunnan.
哇 这地方很高啊 Wow, we're really high up
这是一个很棒的小山村 and this is a gorgeous little village!
张郎镇居住着45个家族 其中80%依靠 'Zhanglang is home to 45 families, 80% of whom make a living
贩卖普洱茶叶给加工企业维持生计 'from selling pu-erh tea leaves to processing factories.
小丽和小露是两个从事采茶的朋友 'Shau-Li and Shau-Lu are two young tea picker friends.'
她们从11岁 12岁就开始采茶 They started tea picking when they were 11 and 12.
相当年轻 So very young!
她们读了小学 村里有一所学校 They went to primary school, there's a school in the village,
但在大约十岁时便辍学 but they left school about ten.
从那时起就做起了采茶工 And they've been tea picking ever since.
我们前往茶园 女孩子们就可以给我们引路 'We head outside to the plantation so the girls can show me the ropes.'
过去十年中国新兴的自由市场经济以及 China's emerging free market economy and state promotion of tea
国家推动茶叶发展造就了出口激增 over the last ten years resulted in an export boom.
很多云南的村庄把他们赖以生存的土地 Many villages in Yunnan converted their subsistence land
转换成茶叶梯田 into tea terraces.
这就是 它的规模 太大了 This is just, the size of it! It's huge!
我从未体验过如此巨大的茶园 I've never experienced a tea plantation this big.
但投资者的抢购狂潮 'But an investor buying frenzy
导致大量假普洱茶充斥市场 'led to lots of fake pu-erh teas flooding the market.
在2008年泡沫破灭 'And in 2008, the bubble burst,
成千上万茶叶生产者破产了 'and thousands of tea producers went out of business.'
他们超级快 They're super-fast!
眨眼的功夫他们就把一丛茶叶采完 It's like a blink and then they've gone through a whole bush.
但是运用他们的有机生产方法和本地技艺 'But with their organic production methods and indigenous skills,
并传授给下一代 'passed down through the generations,
布朗族能够辨别普洱茶的真伪 'the Bulang were able to brand the authenticity of their pu-erh tea
使得他们安全渡过了难关 'and ride out the collapse.'
所以这是最好的部分 So this is the best part,
就是他们采摘茶树叶子的部分 this is the part that they pick off the leaves of the tea.
首先嫩芽 长出来的部分 First the tender shoot, that's coming out,
然后最上面的两片叶子-这就是最值钱的部位 and the top two leaves - that's the most prized bit.
因为它含有更多的茶香 And it's because it has more tea fragrance,
相对于更老的叶子 as opposed to the older leaves.
我之前从未用这些普洱绿茶叶烹饪 I've never cooked with these pu-erh green tea leaves before,
所以我真的很激动 so I'm really excited.
非常嫩… It's very tender...
…清淡的苦味 但对身体很好 ..slightly bitter, but it's good for you!
因为事实上在传统中医里面有这种说法 Cos actually, with tea, in traditional Chinese medicine,
食必须有茶 they say that you must have tea in your diet,
因为我们缺乏的就是苦味 because there's that bitterness that we lack.
你可以在诸多不同种类的蔬菜水果中 You can get salt, sweet, sour,
获得咸 甜 酸 火热 辛辣的味道 fiery, pungent flavours from many different vegetables,
但是你无法获得苦味这种味感特征 and fruit, but you can't get bitterness, that flavour profile.
但你可以从茶里获取 But you can get it from tea.
几个小时后 我们回程用采摘的茶叶 'After a couple of hours, we're heading back to prepare dinner
准备晚餐 'with the leaves we've picked.'
我觉得祖母是一个烹饪专家 I think the grandmother's the culinary expert.
她用眼角里注视着我 She's looking at me out of the corner of her eye!
即使我从事烹饪已数年 'Even though I've been cooking for years,
进入另一位主妇的厨房仍然让我有些头疼 'it's always a little nerve-wracking entering another woman's kitchen.'
她在说通常他们把鸡切成小块 She was saying normally they cut the chicken into smaller pieces,
我切得不够小 but I haven't cut it small enough!
为了晚餐 我将把鸡肉和普洱茶叶混合 'For dinner, I'm making chicken, infused with pu-erh tea leaves.
首先把新鲜的挑选过的茶叶和鸡 'First I'm adding freshly-picked leaves and chicken
加入到锅里的热油中 'to the hot oil in the wok.'
我喜欢这样 木香和熏烟味 I love it, it's really woody and smoky
从下面木柴燃烧的火焰传出 from the wood fire underneath.
翻炒后四分钟 加入一杯普洱茶 'After stir-frying for about four minutes, I add a cup of pu-erh tea,
是由晾晒风干的叶子制成的 'made from sun-dried leaves.'
我马上会把茶倒进去 I'm just going to pour the tea in,
和一些这种叶子混合在一起 现在我将要 together with some of those leaves. Now I'm just going to
慢慢地让鸡和茶味相融 slowly let the chicken infuse with the flavours of the tea.
所以稍稍尝一下味道 So a quick taste of the seasoning.
你知道因为浸入了茶味 汤底 You know that the infusion, that soup base,
现在因为鸡肉真的变得有点苦甜参半 has now become really sort of bittersweet from the chicken.
事实上真的很美味 It's really delicious, actually.
我真的很喜欢把豌豆茄子放进去的点子 I quite like the idea of putting some of these pea aubergine in!
只是少数 Just a handful.
我可能会做的就是加入另一些甜味因素 And what I might do is just add another element of sweetness,
这就是来自于这里的南瓜叶 and that is from the leaves of the local pumpkin plant here.
所以我会拌上一些南瓜叶 So I'm just going to toss that with the pumpkin leaves,
加到这份茶叶鸡汤里面 然后就可以吃了 in this tea chicken broth, and then, yeah! We're good to eat!
如果你想在家里尝试这个配方 'If you want to try this recipe at home,
你可以用绿色的茶叶来代替普洱茶 'you can use green tea leaves instead of pu-erh
并用紫茄子切块来替换豌豆茄子 'and substitute the pea aubergines with diced purple aubergine.
现在我的努力还有待祖母的观察 'Now it just remains to be seen what Grandma makes of my efforts.'
她说：“味道很棒 不错 ” She said, "The flavour is good! Not bad!"
我正在去景洪的路上 云南发展最快的城市 'I'm on my way to Jinghong, Yunnan's fastest growing city.
离张郎的小山村以北仅有40英里 'It's just 40 miles north of the tiny mountain village of Zhanglang.
但这里就像是另一个世界 'But it feels like a world away.'
我真没没有预期到会是如此 I actually didn't expect this.
犹如一大型施工场地 Like a mass construction site.
一切都被疯狂的挖掘 And things are being excavated like crazy.
建筑如雨后春笋般 The construction is at a frenetic pace.
来中国时我期待着它在我 'I came to China expecting it to have changed
23年前的那场中国之旅后会有改变 'since my last big trip, 23 years ago.
但这个城市已经出乎我的想象- 'But this city is beyond what I imagined -
急躁浮夸 挤满游客 'brash, gaudy and jam-packed with tourists.'
这是中国的迪士尼 整个地方犹如拉斯维加斯 It's sort of a Chinese Disneyland. The whole place, Las Vegas.
这个地方将真正起飞 This place will really take off.
文化旅游成为中国的一个 'Cultural tourism has been an integral part
现代化战略的组成部分已经20年了 'of China's modernisation strategy for 20 years.
在景洪 有十三个不同的少数民族 'Here in Jinghong, there are 13 different ethnic minorities,
他们多彩的节日和食物吸引了全中国的游客 'and their colourful festivals and foods draw Chinese visitors from all over the country.
随着城市对旅游需求的适应 As the city adapts to the demands of tourism,
我想知道是否这些少数民族都保留下了 I want to know if these minorities have retained
其独特的文化身份 their distinct cultural identities.
我在景洪郊区 这里许多傣族家庭因旅游业 I'm in a suburb of Jinghong where many Dai families have set up
建立小作坊生产传统云南美食 small cottage industries producing traditional Yunnan food
包括我的最爱之一 for the tourist trade, including one of my absolute favourites.
它伴随着我的成长 我妈妈是它的超级粉丝 It's something I grew up with, my mum was a great fan of it,
她以往总是差遣我出去买新鲜的炒米粉 she used to send me out, getting fresh rice-noodle stir-fries,
那是餐桌上的特殊美味 and it was a special treat.
是这儿么 真的很大 Is this it? Oh, it's huge, wow.
谭先生 你好吗 Hello, Mr Ken, how are you?
这是艾先生 你好吗 This is Mr Ai! How are you?
艾先生和他的妻子以前是农民 Mr Ai and his wife used to be farmers.
如今 他们的生意做得很成功 Now they run a successful business supplying noodles
为城里最繁华旅游酒店的生意供应米线 to some of the busiest tourist restaurants in the city.
所有的事情都他们的车库里完成 And it's all done from their garage.
这是米粉做的吗 This is made from rice flour?
是的 的确是 Yes, yes it is.
他们首先浸泡大米 接着把米研磨 They soak the rice first and then, they grind it,
再接着把它们转移到那个大锅里 and then move it to that big pot.
大米磨成米粉后 After the rice is ground into flour,
和水结合成米团 it's combined with water to make dough.
水和米粉的比例是绝不外传的家族秘方 The exact quantities are a closely guarded family secret.
最后米团从一台挤压机里穿出 Finally the dough is passed through a noodle extruder.
她的处理方式真是一门艺术 It's almost an art, the way she's handling it.
看 完全没有破损 她准确地知道何处切刀 See, none of it breaks, she knows exactly at which point to cut it.
我喜欢 就像洗衣服一样 I love it, it's like putting out your laundry!
一切都和重量有关 而且她 她掂着它 It all has to do with the weight, and she, she takes it,
感受它的重量 有一边太重了 and she feels the weight of it, it's too heavy on one side,
我想这是门艺术 她做这个已经好些时间了 and, I guess it's an art, she's been doing it for a while.
她太让人震惊了 She's amazing.
艾夫人邀请我试一下 Mrs Ai invites me to have a go.
这和她差太多了 It's not as even as hers!
太乱了 What a mess!
不用猜哪一个是我的 No prizes for guessing which one is mine.
米线作为食物 在云南已经有几个世纪了 Rice-noodles have been established fare in Yunnan for centuries.
它们无麸质 丝般质感 They're gluten-free with a silky texture
更有效地吸收香味 that absorbs flavours more efficiently
比起没那么松软的小麦面 than the less spongy wheat noodles,
这使得它们完美适用于做汤和炒菜 which makes them perfect for soups and stir-fries.
她说她想请你吃米线 I would like to invite you to have my noodles.
我会很高兴的 I would be so happy!
很高兴看到从农村迁到城里的傣族人 It's great to see Dai migrants from the countryside
过上更成功的生活并生产传统的食物 making a successful living in the city producing traditional food
给蓬勃发展的旅游业 for the burgeoning tourist industry.
米线 显然已经成为一个古老的家族配方 The rice-noodles, apparently, have been an old family recipe,
以前他们在自己的农场里做米线拿出来卖 后来他们决定 they were selling it out of their farm before, and they decided
变得更富有创业精神 这就是发生在中国的事 to be more entrepreneurial, which is what has happened in China,
很多小家庭 you have these very small families,
会像这样自己做生意 that are starting business like this.
这是真正的资本运作形式 谁知道呢 This is really the base of capitalism, and who knows,
也许在未来三十年里 他们将成为一家大公司 maybe in the next 30 years, they'll be a gigantic corporation!
就靠这个家族秘方 Based on this family recipe!
早餐后 艾先生热情的带我参观了他的房子 After breakfast, Mr Ai is keen to show me around his house.
很好的客厅 漂亮的沙发… Nice living room, a nice sofa...
噢 那是他们的儿子 Oh, that's their son?
他真可爱 有几间卧室 He's very cute. How many bedrooms?
四间 四间卧室 Four. Four bedrooms.
哇 真的是一幢非常 非常宽敞的房子 Wow, it's very, a very big house!
他说他的房子比别人的要小 He says his house is smaller than others!
噢 真的吗 邻居的更大 Oh, really? The neighbours' is much bigger!
艾先生的业务正在蓬勃发展 一切只会变得更好 Business is clearly booming for Mr Ai and things can only get better
在1.5亿英镑的景洪旅游发展资金支持下 with 1.5 billion earmarked for tourism development in Jinghong.
这里有一个机场 There's an airport over there!
开玩笑吧 哇 那是飞机场 You're kidding, wow! That's the airport?
是的 正在建设中 Yes, it's under construction.
因为蜂拥而来的游客 他们需要更多机场 So many tourists will come and they need more airport
以满足需求 to meet the demand.
我明白 I see.
这个旅游城市可能有在迪士尼乐园的感觉 This tourist city might have a Disneyland feel to it.
但就今天我所看到的来说 But from what I've seen today,
这里的少数民族真的生活在机遇中 the minorities here are really embracing the opportunities it offers.
而且并不是以牺牲自己的文化和烹饪传统为代价 And it's not at the expense of their cultural and culinary traditions.
他们充满抱负 They have ambitions.
他们以为他们的文化和与之相关的一切 They thought that their culture, and everything that went with it,
比如他们的美食 会被一扫而光 like their cuisine, would be wiped out.
恰恰相反 这些却发狂般地繁荣 And instead, it's thriving like crazy!
这个本地市场就是最明显的体现 Nowhere is this more evident than in the local market.
令人兴奋 这东西我以前从没见过 This is exciting! It's things I've never seen before!
当地女士们戴上手套真优雅 These local ladies are so elegant with their gloves
这让我兴奋不已 太漂亮了 This excites me. Wow, this is beautiful.
这是我们在云南的最后一个晚上 It's our final night in Yunnan.
瀞亿将和我在景洪会合 Ching is about to join me in Jinghong
所以我将用一些当地的食材烹饪晚餐 so I'm picking up some local ingredients for dinner.
现在在这里我真的很想尝试一些东西 Now, this is something I really wanted to try here,
特别是在云南 因为以竹子而闻名 especially in Yunnan because Yunnan is famous for bamboo.
所以挑一些竹笋是个不错的主意 So several bamboo shoots would be nice.
我们之前已经尝试过了这种面条 We have tried these noodles before,
我想试试我的最爱之一 and I want to try one of my favourites,
这些都是米粉 these are rice-noodles as well,
实际上它们已经被蒸得半熟 and they've actually been partially cooked by steaming,
再次由大米粉末以及清水制成 and it's again made with rice-flour and water.
哦 上帝 那看起来的确像拉斯维加斯 Oh, God, that does look like... Looks like Las Vegas!
所有这些明亮的灯光 你看 我们看到了泰国 All these bright lights, and look, we've got Thailand over there.
由于米粉是云南的特产 Since rice-noodles are a specialty of Yunnan,
我会用它们来做我最喜欢的菜肴之一 I'm using them to make one of my favourite dishes,
蚕豆竹笋炒米粉 stir fried rice-noodles with broad beans and bamboo shoots.
当你做米粉时 把炒锅的味道搞对 It's really important when you cook rice-noodles
是非常重要的 to get the flavour of the wok right.
我喜欢冒烟的锅味 非常棒 I love that smoky gou wei, it's so great.
我将加一点辣椒 大蒜 I'm going to add a tiny bit of this lovely chilli oil, the garlic...
哇 太棒了 Wow, that is fantastic.
现在要做的就是拿出来一会儿 But what I'm going to do, I'm just going to take it out for a second,
煸炒剩余的蔬菜 and I'm going to stir-fry the rest of the vegetables.
我喜欢 你是一个完美主义者 像我的祖母一样烹饪 I love it, you're a perfectionist cook like my grandmother,
她总是把每种成分都烹饪完美 she'd always cook each ingredient perfectly
然后把它们倒在锅里回温 and them bring them back into the wok to warm through,
然后加调味料 比如酱油 醋… and then add the seasoning, like you know, the soy sauce, the vinegar...
一道美味的中国菜必须得循序渐进一步步来 Well, good Chinese cooking is in steps,
我的意思是当你烹煮一种东西后 what I mean by that is you cook one thing
就要把它取出 and then you take it out.
我要放进竹笋和蚕豆 I'm putting in the bamboo shoots and the broad beans,
加入少许米酒 adding a little bit of rice wine to that.
可爱的酱油 Lovely soy sauce!
我们就是在相当高的温度下烹饪 There, we just let that cook on quite a high temperature
直到它有些熟了蔫了 看起来不错 until it's sort of cooked and wilted. It looks good.
蚝油 Oyster sauce.
味道好极了 我爱蚝油 我可以尝一下吗 Yum! I love oyster sauce! Am I allowed to try some?
恩 太好了 Mmmm! Oh, that's so good!
美味至极 That is delicious!
对我来说这菜真的很“云南” 特别是加了米粉 This dish is really Yunnan for me, especially with this rice-noodle,
变得非同寻常 柔软 并且… which is very unusual, soft, and...
恩 真是美味 Mmmm. It's really delicious.
瀞亿 我不知道你怎么样 但即使这些难以置信的变化 Ching, I don't know about you, but even with all this incredible change
在这个地方 我认为食物也不会改变 in this place, I don't think the food will change!
很简单 因为这里悠久的传统 Simply because of its long tradition.
他们以自己劳动所得为傲 对我来说 They're so proud of their produce, and for me,
当我看到茶农耕种自己的茶园 你知道 the way when I saw the tea farmers farm their farm, and you know,
如果这种传统已经持续了几千年 那么我敢肯定 if that tradition has been going for thousands of years, I know for sure,
因为茶叶和食物是相辅相成的 他们的食物绝对会得以保存 tea and food go hand in hand, their food will absolutely be preserved.
这很好 干杯 老谭 It's so good. Cheers, Ken!
为了云南 她的食物以及她的人民 To Yunnan, and its food, and its people.
-也为了普洱茶和啤酒 -是的 绝对是 And to pu-erh tea, and the beer. Yes! Absolutely.
还有迪士尼乐园 -迪士尼乐园 And Disneyland. Disneyland!
我们将开始史诗般旅程的第二阶段 We're on the second stage of our epic journey
穿越中国广袤的西部边疆 across China's vast Western frontier,
很少有人敢冒险来到的地方 where few travellers dare to venture.
在西北行驶了3000英里后 After travelling more than 3,000 miles northwest,
我们抵达了新疆喀什 we arrive in Kashgar in Xinjiang province,
位于中国 阿富汗和巴基斯坦边境上的城市 which lies on the border with Afghanistan and Pakistan.
喀什是神秘的少数族裔的家园 其文化 Kashgar is home to a veiled minority, whose culture
与其他人对现代化的热忱截然不同 is at odds with the modernising zeal of the ruling Han Chinese.
天哪 我们好像来到一个古老的中世纪城市 Gosh, this looks like an ancient medieval city we've come to.
这真的是中国最边远之地 It's really on the far fringes of China.
这个城市曾是丝绸之路上的一个重要中心 This city was once a major centre on the Silk Road,
7000英里的贸易路线连接着 the 7,000 mile trade route that connected
中国的黄河流域和印度以及地中海 China's Yellow River Valley with India and the Mediterranean.
如今 喀什是一个泾渭分明的城市 Today, Kashgar is a deeply divided city.
在老城区 维吾尔的伊斯兰信徒来自中亚 In the old town, the Uyghurs, Turkic Muslim people from central Asia,
努力保持他们古老的文化和宗教习俗 strive to preserve their ancient culture and religious practices.
然而在新城区 是新近涌入的移民 While in the new city, the recent influx of Han Chinese,
用该地区丰富的石油天然气财富建造摩天大楼 build their skyscrapers with the riches of the region's oil and gas.
这就是远东和中东的一次交会 This is where the Far East meets the Middle East.
我觉得我不像是在中国 更像是在中亚 I don't feel like I'm in China, I feel like I'm in Central Asia,
但不是中国 but it's not China.
这里多次发生过的 It's where there have been violent protests
维族群众的抗议活动 from disenfranchised Uyghurs against the Han Chinese.
以及传统与现代的冲突 And where tradition and modernity are in open conflict.
我们来到市场探寻 We've come to the market to find out
维族人的美食和宗教习俗是否还存在于 if Uyghur culinary and religious customs are surviving
这个民族特色分明的城市 in this ethnically divided city.
当然这是我们到过中国的最奇特的地方 This is certainly the most exotic place we've been to in China.
我们和我们的向导穆罕默德会面 We're met by our guide, Mohammed.
嗨 你好 Hi! Hello!
嘿 Hey!
很高兴认识你 我叫穆罕默德 欢迎来喀什 Nice to meet you, I am Mohammed. Welcome to Kashgar!
很高兴认识你 穆罕默德 刚到吗 Nice to meet you, Mohammed! Just arrived?
是的 我们刚到 来吧 我带你们四处转转 Yes, we did, yeah. Ah, come on, I show you around.
好的 谢谢 很荣幸 OK, thanks! It's a pleasure.
1000年前 这个市场恐怕是充斥着商队 1,000 years ago, this market would have been overrun with caravans
载着货物往返于中国北方的丝绸之路 bringing goods in and out of China on the Northern Silk Road.
今天 有超过5000个摊位 挤得满满的商人 Today, with over 5,000 stalls, it's jam packed with traders
风尘仆仆来自巴基斯坦的喀喇昆仑公路 hot off the Karakoram Highway from Pakistan.
葡萄干 Raisins!
这些是杏仁 那些是葵花籽 These are apricot seeds, those are sunflower seeds,
人们只是把所用东西混杂在一起 people just mix a little bit of everything,
放进自己的口袋 put it into their pocket.
恩 很美味 是吗 Mmm! It's delicious, yeah?
非常好 Very good.
你知道杏仁对男人很有益 You know apricot seed is very good for men.
真的吗 噢 Really? Oh.
我不会问你为什么 吃了这个就不会需要伟哥了 I won't ask you why! You eat this, you don't need Viagra.
徘徊漫步于市场里 看到一种引人注目的食品 Wandering through the market, it's striking to see one food
在中国的很多地方你很难找到 that you'd be hard pressed to find anywhere else in China.
啊 这就是我想看到的东西 哇 好吃 Ah, wow, this is what I wanted to see. Wow! Delicious!
我们可以买到吗 是的 Can we buy one? Yes!
在这里 几乎每一个街角都在卖烤饼面包 Here, naan bread is sold on virtually every street corner.
恩 Mmmm!
噢 这个我喜欢 Oh, this I love.
这是芝麻与洋葱 盐吗 It's sesame seeds with onion? Salt?
是的 它们把这些放在上面 Yeah, they just put those on top.
2000年前 游牧的牧民 2,000 years ago, the nomadic cattle herders
穿越这个区域 travelling through this region,
在沙漠里依靠这些面包获取能量 relied on this bread to sustain them in the desert.
今天 维吾尔人视之为神圣 Today, Uyghurs consider it to be sacred.
面包意味着生活 Bread means life.
所以你不浪费这些馕 浪费粮食就相当于祸害自己性命吗 So you can't throw bread away? It's like throwing away your life?
绝不会 即使馕变硬了 我宁可拿它送人 Never! Even if it's too old, I'd rather take it to somebody,
让他们拿去喂羊 你懂的 to just feed their sheep, you know?
用这个喂 我绝不把它扔进垃圾堆 With this. I never throw it into the rubbish.
馕是用传统方法在户外的大馕池里烤出来的 Naan bread is traditionally baked in large outdoor tandoor ovens.
馕池炙热的池壁把馕外皮烤得脆脆的 The hot clay walls of the oven bake the bread crispy on the bottom
但馕的里面却很松软 but leave it soft in the centre.
要想做这么好的馕 技术全在如何将饼贴到馕池壁上 But the skill lies in getting it to stick onto the oven wall.
好的 噢 天啊 OK. Oh, God!
好 好 好 好 好的 好的 拍上去 噢不 Good, good, good, good, good, good, good, just push it, oh no!
掉下去了 噢 瀞亿 噢 我天爷啊 瀞亿 噢不 It's fallen down, oh! Ching! Oh, my God, Ching, oh no!
掉哪去了哦 噢 不 我的饼 Where is it? Oh, no, my bread!
噢 天啊 哎呦喂啊 我都不敢再做了 Oh, God! God, I dread to do this now.
就是把它拍上去 老谭 我行的 Just slap it on, Ken. OK.
啊 Ah!
弄上去了吗 There it is?
是这样 和他做的不太一样啊 Is it? It's not exactly like his.
哇 这是我做的 新款式的馕 Wow, there's mine. It's a new take on a calzone.
可怜的瀞亿 Poor Ching!
喂 也可以把这个当成一种创新的吧 Hey, this could be a new innovation here,
这种形状的馕 这是一种新的吃法 this style of bread, it's a new way of eating!
2009年 政府开始了一项规模达3亿英镑的 In 2009, the Chinese government began a 300 million pound clear up
对喀什的清理 拆除维族聚居的老城区里的清真寺 of Kashgar, demolishing mosques, markets and centuries-old houses
市场以及百年老屋 in the Uyghur dominated old city.
还有多少人住在这 住在这周围吗 How many people still live around here?
大概有20万左右吧 喀什城半数以上的人口 About 200,000, more than half of the population of the Kashgar city
聚居在老城 are living in the old city.
实在是太拥挤了 It's really packed now!
是因为这里很方便吗 Is it because it's convenient?
是因为他们祖祖辈辈都住在这里 Because they've been living in this town for many, many generations,
大概有千年的历史了吧 他们都在这里长大 about 1,000 years and, you know, they grew up here,
他们爱自己的家 这些房子大多都是代代相传的 they like their home, you know most of the houses are inherited
从他们父母 祖父母那里传给他 from their, you know, parents, or grandparents.
每个人都熟识他的邻居 Everybody knows each other in the neighbourhood.
嗯 Right.
很多维族人都在反对 Many Uyghurs are trying hard to resist assimilation
生活方式发生变化 with the Han Chinese.
其中一种方法就是通过食物 And one way they're doing it is through food.
我们广东人确实是不太吃羊肉 One thing us Cantonese don't eat much of is lamb.
但是在喀什 节庆 平时都是要吃羊肉的 But in Kashgar, it's both a ceremonial and an everyday meat.
同时 每个喀什人都知道只有一个地方能买得到 And every Kashgari knows there's only one place to buy it.
每个星期天 数以千记的人涌进喀什 Thousands of people swarm into Kashgar every Sunday
就为了到牲畜市场赶集 for the livestock market.
这声音太刺耳了 It's a disorientating cacophony of animals,
车的轰鸣声 人的讨价还价声 car horns and bartering traders.
今天貌似特别的热闹 因为诺鲁孜节（迎春）快到了 Today is particularly busy because Noruz is coming up,
这是维族人保留下来的一个古老的波斯节庆 an ancient Persian festival celebrated by Uyghurs,
这个节庆意味着春天要来了 which marks the coming of spring.
一头羔羊是这一节庆的核心 就像火鸡对于英式圣诞一样重要 And lamb is as essential to that as turkey is to a British Christmas.
市场在继续忙碌着 With the market so busy,
我们则让穆罕默德的朋友瓦呼德带我们四处闲逛一下 we're relieved to have Mohammed's friend Wahub to show us around.
这个牲口市场开张都有两千多年了 This animal market has been happening for over 2,000 years.
哇 Wow!
太不可思议了 我觉得自己回到了古代 It's crazy, I feel like we've stepped back in olden times.
就像回到元朝了啊 It's like, back to the time of Genghis Khan!
我们碰到了喀什烤肉的第一把好手 We're meeting the number one roast lamb chef in Kashgar.
他收到一份置办新年酒席的订单 He's got an order for a new year's celebration
现在他是来选最好的羊的 and is here to find the best sheep.
你好啊 Hello!
这就是最优质的羊中的一种 三岁 This is one of the best quality sheep. Three years old.
三岁 你是看它的牙齿吗 Three years old, you can tell by the teeth?
对 Yes.
为什么特别选三岁的呢 有什么讲究吗 And why would you buy the three-year-old, is it different?
有的 它齿幼一些呢 肉质就会好一些 Yes, if it's younger, it's better quality.
味道自然也就好一些 The taste of sheep is more delicious.
如果羊耳朵越大 它越好 If the sheep's ear is bigger, it's much better.
真的 味道越好吗 Really? For taste?
味道也是 繁殖能力也是 For taste and for breeding.
我们很想知道主厨怎么来处理和烤制这只羊的 We're keen to know how the chef is going to prepare and roast the lamb,
于是他邀请我们到他的厨房去看看古法的维族厨艺 so he invites us to his kitchen to observe an age-old tradition.
你好 Hello!
就是这只羊 是他准备来宰羊吗 This is the sheep? That he's going to slaughter?
他准备在这宰羊 必须按照清真的要求宰杀 He's going to slaughter it here, it must be done by Halal way.
不这样做 就不能吃 If it's not, it's not possible to eat.
在他宰杀之前 他必须读可兰经 Before he slaughter, he must read the Koran.
他一边读可兰经一边宰羊 He's reading the Koran and slaughtering.
39岁的阿萨马江干屠宰这一行已经15年了 39-year-old Osmanjan has been in the business for 15 years,
他从他父亲那里学到怎么屠宰 learning his skill from his father.
非常快 很快 不是 Very quick. That was fast, huh?
羊屠宰好以后 After the sheep is slaughtered,
会向羊体内充入空气 使得以后剥皮容易一些 air is pumped into the skin to make it easier for the chef to remove it.
他真的是专家 He's a real expert.
他真的是专家 He is a real expert.
作为穆斯林 我们不吃血制品 The Muslim people, we don't eat the blood.
这就是你把血倒掉的原因吗 我们确实会把它倒掉 That's why you don't save it? We don't save it.
我们会把血留起来 鸡血 猪血 Cos we keep the blood, chicken's blood, pig's blood,
然后我们会做成小小的饭团 and we make little, like rice cakes.
血肠 A sausage.
我们会烤血肠 味道还不错 不是吗 不 And we grill it, it's actually quite good. No? No.
很开心看到那些 It's reassuring to see
数世纪流传下来的伊斯兰烹调传统能够延续 that a centuries old Islamic culinary tradition,
还在不断变强 is still going strong.
看起来是将蛋和面粉涂上去了啊 It's like an eggy, starchy wash?
嗯 对 烤的时候不会烤焦 Yes, and also when it's roasted, it's not burned.
哦 是让它不烤焦 Oh, protects it from the burning.
我的意思是 我没预料到它看起来是这个样子的 不 不 I mean, it's not what I expected it to look like. No, no.
祖父和太祖父 Grandfather, and grandfather's father.
哦 好多代了啊 For many generations.
还有他的两个叔叔 And his two uncles.
他是第五个了 He's the number five.
哇 Wow!
他在祈祷 He said a prayer.
他在开始的时候祈祷 有助于一个完美的结局 He says this at the start, and it helps with a successful ending.
那只羊很好 像是在做某种仪式 I think it's beautiful, it's like a ritual.
嗯 对 确实 Yes, like that, yes.
厨师要求我 The chef has asked me
让我为节庆做一道主菜以外的菜 to make a dish to complement the lamb for the new year's feast.
我以前在很多地方都做过菜 但这一次更有意义 I've cooked a lot of places in my time but this, this beats it!
我准备用当地食材但用中国菜的技法来煮 I want to use local ingredients but with my Chinese style of cooking.
这是厨师的女儿 那边那个 There's the chef's daughters, over there.
她们长得像他 They look like him!
我正在做一道我自己版本的非常著名的维族菜“手抓饭” I'm making my version of a very famous Uyghur dish called polo.
这是一种肉饭 放上了洋葱和胡萝卜条 This is rice pilaf flavoured with onion, fine strips of carrot,
干果 坚果 dried fruit and nuts.
放一些水让它滚起来 Add a little bit of water just boiling here,
通常我还会放一些我从市场买来的藏红花调味 which I'll flavour with some saffron that I got at the market.
藏红花要放到滚水中 The saffron should go into hot water.
这样才能让它释放的香味渗透到食材中 This helps release the aroma that will infuse the dish.
我会在放一点点盐和一勺孜然 I'm also adding a pinch of salt and a teaspoon of cumin.
味道就会很浓郁了 That'll be flavourful.
孜然不是我们在做中式烹调时常用的香料 Cumin isn't a spice we use much in Chinese cooking
因为它的味道太浓郁了 because it's got such a strong flavour.
但是在中东菜里会用得很普遍 But it's very popular in Middle Eastern dishes.
当锅里的油够热的时候 放两个切碎的洋葱进去 When the oil is hot in the wok, add two chopped onions
然后拌炒一分钟 and stir fry for about a minute.
放入胡罗卜 盐和胡椒 Then add the carrots, salt and pepper
然后再拌炒几分钟 and stir-fry for another couple of minutes.
我放了一些芹菜 I'm just putting in some celery,
我准备吧他们能提供的都用上 trying to use everything that it's in their resources.
这是当地的食材 嗯 That's local, yeah.
我准备盖上锅盖 以使温度达到最高 I'm going to cover that, because that will maximise the temperature.
让它炖个8分钟左右 This should be left to simmer for around eight minutes.
我要放一些开心果和杏仁 还有葡萄干 I have here some lovely pistachio and apricot seeds, and some raisins.
我们真是东西方烹饪结合了 We're really here at the crossroads of east and west.
把这些坚果撒进去 这就很有中东风味了 And this is very Middle Eastern, using all these nuts.
然后 放米 Next, the rice goes in.
恩 这些米看起来很像糯米 我们把它加热 Now this rice is a little bit like short grain, we'll just warm it up.
然后加入藏红花汤 What I'll add is my liquid of water and saffron,
再加一点点盐和香料 a little bit of salt and spices.
最后放进开心果 杏仁和葡萄干 Finally add the pistachio nuts, apricot kernels raisins
然后是芹菜 and chopped celery leaves.
看起来很不同 但是好的不同 味道会很好 It's different, it's good different, the taste is good,
颜色也很好 and it looks pretty and colourful.
嗯 谢谢你 厨师 OK, thank you, Chef.
洋葱真甜 米饭熟透了很软 The onions are really sweet, the rice is cooked through and tender,
葡萄干增加了甜味 嗯 the raisins in there really add a sweetness, yeah,
杏仁呢 吃起来脆脆的 好口感 and the apricot kernels, a good crunch! Good texture.
哇 令人惊讶的作品 Wow! That's amazing!
哇 Wow!
太好了 看起来真有节庆气氛 That's great! It looks so ceremonial.
放了几个装饰品之后 After a few embellishments,
整头羊就会被放到节庆仪式中去 the lamb is ready to go to the new year's feast.
诺鲁孜节对维族人来说是很重要的节日 Noruz is the most important date on the Uyghur calendar,
所以能够传递烤羊是一种荣耀 so it's an honour to be able to deliver the lamb
我做的手抓饭能够进入家庭庆典我也很荣幸 and my rice polo to a family celebration.
那么 老谭 我们去男 男人们的庆典吗 So, Ken, we go to the men, the men's party,
瀞亿 你要去女士的庆典哦 and, Ching, you go to the ladies' party here.
喔 好的 是分开的吗 是分开的 Oh, OK, so it's separate. It's separate.
嗯 这也很好 不是吗 这是他们的文化 OK. Well that's nice, isn't it? But that's their culture.
只是我不太习惯罢了 So it's something I'm not used to.
男女分食是传统留下来的吗 So is this a tradition that men and women eat separately?
是的 这是我们的传统之一 每天都这样 还是 Yes, that's one of our traditions Is that every day, or...?
不不 一年一次的 No, once a year.
一年一次 其他时候他们都在一起吃饭吗 Once a year? Other times they eat together?
是的 在一起 They eat together, yes.
好吧 妇女们要怎么进食羊肉呢 OK, so how will the women have the lamb?
他们会拿一些大盘子过来 然后盛过去 They bring some big plates, and just take it to the ladies' part.
今天的食物全是由女性 嗯 All the food today was made by all the women, by all, uh,
她的婆婆家做 还有她的姐姐 她们也不会提出质疑 her mum-in-law's family, and the sisters, they don't question,
你懂的 她们这样过了一年又一年 you know, that's the way they have lived for many, many years.
我要祝他们新年行大运 I'd like to wish them all a very prosperous new year!
我们离开了新年的庆典来到了穆罕默德的家 We've left the new year's celebration behind to go to Mohammed's house
我们受邀到此参加他们家的诺鲁孜节庆典 where we've been invited to his family's Noruz festivities.
穆罕默德 这就是了吧 Mohammed, is this it?
嗯 我们到了 Yes, we have arrived, yeah.
我们再一次碰到了一群女超人 Once again we're entering the domain of a formidable group of women.
这是我老娘 这是我老婆 你好—你好 This is my mother. This is my wife. Hello. Hello.
这是我婶子 这是我妹妹 This is my uncle's wife. This is my younger sister.
能和女性一起做菜 真算是享受特权了 It's going to be a real privilege to cook with these women.
特别是在这男性是被禁止进入厨房的 Particularly as men are usually banned from their kitchen.
哇 穆罕默德 你的妻子好麻利啊 Wow, Mohammed, your wife is really quick,
她很会做面条 不是吗 really good at making the noodles, huh?
每一道食物都是亲手做的 味道很好 是不是 Everything is prepared by hand, it tastes better, huh?
同意 我同意 I agree. I agree.
维族人就像意大利人 都是面条的专家 The Uyghurs, like Italians, are pasta specialists
他们声称能做72种不同的面条 and claim to make 72 different varieties.
今天女主人们做了两道最好的家常菜 Today the ladies are making two family favourites.
他们的厚薄都是一样的 So the thickness should be all the same.
穆罕默德的妻子向我展示 Mohammed's wife is showing me
怎么做拌面 how to make laghman,
这个地区最出名的手撑面 the famous hand-pulled noodles of this region.
哦 好的 Oh, OK!
我说 这面条也太厚了吧 她说 I said that this is quite a thick noodle, and she said,
不会啊 等一下我们会把它撑开 "No, it goes through another stage, we pull it to make it thinner."
做这种面一共有两步 It's a two stage process.
首先我们要用水和面粉和一个面团 揉成长条 First we roll the dough, made of flour and water, into long sausages.
然后把面卷在一个涂了油的圆碗里 Then we coil them around the circular base of an oiled tin
然后醒面半个小时 and leave them to rest for half an hour.
现在面已经醒好了 Well, the dough is ready now.
同时 穆罕默德的母亲在做着chuchura
其实就是汤饺 which is a dumpling soup.
那么这张面是要做混沌的 So this is for the dumpling,
她做混沌有多长时间经验了啊 how long has she been making these dumplings?
差不多50年了 About 50 years!
我是从她动作看出她是老手的 她非常熟练 I can just tell by the way she moves, she's, she's very skilled.
第一步她揉出一团面 面里加了蛋清 First she rolls out the dough, which is made from egg whites
而不是蛋黄 这样就可以使面可以擀得更薄 rather than yolks so that she can stretch it out more.
不像生手擀面使不上劲儿 她擀面 Instead of having a very big thing to roll, she rolls it,
很会用巧劲儿 like, on one thing.
意大利人也是这么做面的 This is how Italians also do pasta.
我上大学念了这么多书 I paid my way through university by giving lessons
就是为了学会做意大利面 in how to make Italian pasta.
一层层的放好 哇 side by side,wow!
但在这 我觉得自己还是个学生 Now, I feel like the student.
太聪明了 It's so clever
学会了这个也不罔来此一遭 就为了这个 This was worth the trip out here, to see this.
确实是 Absolutely.
等到他妈妈把面切成小方块 Once Mohammed's mother has cut the dough into small squares,
我们就用苜蓿芽的馅儿包成混沌 we roll them into parcels, which are then stuffed with alfalfa sprouts.
噢 看起来像意大利饺子 素的意大利饺子 Oh, they're just like tortellini! That's a vegetable tortellini!
放一点点… Take a little bit...
把它包进去 像这样 这样 Fold it into itself, like that. Like that?
作为一个名誉男厨师 我想知道我的技艺是否能得到 As the honorary male cook, I want to know if I've passed the test
这家女人们的认可 with the women of the house.
老谭做得不错 Ken is OK though.
但我认为她们是在责备他 I think she's telling him off!
你是应该常常进厨房练练了 You should come in the kitchen more often!
她说他给她留下了深刻印象 She says she was really impressed,
她说 “维族的男人也应该进厨房来帮忙了 she said, "Our men should come to the kitchen too!"
噢 我同意 所有男人都该来 Aw, yeah I agree! All men!
不用翻译 哈 我们懂的 It needed no translation, it needed no translation!
馄饨呢要在沸水里煮个5分钟 The dumplings need to boil for five minutes
煮到半透明的样子 until they become translucent.
同时 我要出去看看穆罕默德的婶子 Meanwhile, I head outside to find out how Mohammed's aunty
在做的其他的菜 is getting on with the rest of the meal.
这是待会儿拌面的酱吗 嗯 So this is just the sauce for the noodles, right? Yeah.
酱里没有肉哦 There's no meat in this one?
有啊 放了羊肉 There is meat in it! Lamb in it.
哦哦 嗯 到处都是羊肉 Oh, OK, lamb everywhere!
我在帮穆罕默德的婶子做拌面 I'm helping Mohammed's aunt finish the laghman noodles.
首先呢 要把面撑开 The first step is to pull each length of the noodle
放到这块上了油的砧板上 onto an oiled board.
把面扯开 Just pull.
她扯面的样子 像是在纺织 She's kind of working the dough, spinning it.
然后就要将面挽在手上 Then she winds the noodles around her hands.
现在呢就是最难的一步 把面撑开 And now for the most difficult part, stretching them out.
看起来就像在玩翻绳游戏 哇 It looks like she's playing cat's cradle! Wow!
哇 Wow!
然后把面放进沸水锅中煮3分钟 Then they go into a wok of boiling water for three minutes.
而…她是这样绞的 Uh, she took it like that.
这是一长段面条 This is a long piece of noodle!
摔它 撑它 啪啪啪 向砧板上拍打 就是这样 Bang it, pull it, bang it, slap it against the board, that's it!
哒哒 Ta-da!
我们在喀什的时光要告一段落了 It's the end of our time in Kashgar
我们对中国少数民族烹饪技法大探索也到了尾声 and our exploration of China's ethnic minority cuisines.
请动筷 好的 谢谢 我们先试试面的味道吧 Please. Thank you. We'll start with the noodles.
这是你撑的哦 This is the one you pulled?
嗯 我非常非常爱这碗面啊～ Mm, this I really, really am in love with the noodles.
很弹牙 味道也很好 It really is springy and delicious,
吃自己做的面实在是太满足了 it's really satisfying making your own noodles!
中国是如此多样化 如此多不同的人 China is so diverse, so many different people,
不同的想法 不同的宗教 不同的文化 different ideas, different religions, different cultures.
傣族 布朗族 通过食物 The Dai minority, the Bulang minority, through food that's,
食物就是他们的特征 维族也是 食物是他们的文化 that's their identity, then now the Uyghurs, that's their culture,
文化就在他们的餐盘子里啊 just right on the plate right there.
仅仅食物就可以说明一切 太好了 It says it all. It's magnificent!
穆罕默德 敬你 敬你全家 谢谢 Mohammed, to you, and your whole family, thank you very much!
我来喀什和云南学到的 看到的 What I've learned and discovered by coming to Kashgar and Yunnan,
加深了我对中国的认识 is I think it's deepened my understanding about China.
尽管他们是少数民族 Even though they're within the Chinese nation,
他们也没有丢掉自己的传统 they haven't lost their local traditions,
我想真很重要 which I think is very important.
下一集 我们要去广东省 Next time, we journey to Guangdong province...'
那是我厨艺的圣地 This is where my culinary soul is.
去探索粤菜的多面向 '..to explore the many faces of Cantonese cuisine...'
噢 天爷 鳄鱼 Oh, my God, alligators!
还有我父母相遇那座城的文化 '..and culture in the city where my parents met.'
他们要唱我老娘最爱的戏 They're going to sing my mother's favourite aria.
非常感动 Very touched.
在结束我们横跨中国的探索之前 Before we complete our journey across China
我要去拜拜我的祖宗 with an emotional pilgrimage to our ancestral homes.
我对食物的记忆是从这里开始的 现在我又回来了 像走了个圈 My food memory started here and I think I have come a full circle.
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字幕由Red Bee Media Ltd提供 Subtitles by Red Bee Media Ltd