狂野加拿大
加拿大西部 The west of Canada
有众多形形色色的大山 contains the most diverse range of habitats
那里到处都是动物的栖息地 found anywhere in the country.
这是一个极端世界 It's a place of extremes.
巍峨的落基山脉构成了巨大的天然屏障 The rugged Rocky Mountains form a vast barrier
把这个国家西部与其它地方分隔开来 that sets the west apart from the rest of the country.
雨水从山上流下 Rain pours off the mountains,
形成了瀑布和激流 forming waterfalls and raging torrents,
向西深进 and flows west into the deep inlets
直至太平洋海岸 of the Pacific Coast.
这些水 有咸水也有淡水 These waters,both fresh and salt,
养活了地球上最大的温带雨林 support the largest temperate rainforest on the planet.
这里是全加拿大众多种动物们的家园 The region is home to the greatest variety of animals in all of Canada.
[Bear growls]
[Wolf howls]
这片土地呈现出了荒蛮与野性 The land appears rugged and untamed.
但这里并不是只有野性 But it's not pure wilderness.
人类对这里的影响比获得的还要多 Human hands have influenced it more than we might realize.
第 二 集
西 部 的 狂 野
因为西部财富的源头就在海里 The source of the West's riches lies in the sea.
鲑鱼生活在这里 Pacific salmon have been coming here
已经有600万年了 for some six million years.
牠们在最后一个冰河时代开始之前 They were here
就在这里了 before the beginning of the last ice age
远早于人类 and long before the arrival of human beings.
每到夏天 这里会出现地球上最大的迁徙之一 Every summer,hundreds of millions
牠们有数亿 make one of the planet's greatest migrations,
牠们从太平洋深处游向遥远的内陆 from deep in the Pacific Ocean
swimming far inland
到达准确地点产卵 to spawn in the exact spot
并让卵自行孵化 where they themselves were hatched.
牠们的旅程只在西部 Their journey defines the entire West.
西海岸从深深的大洋突然升起 The West Coast rises abruptly from the deep ocean,
营养丰富的水吸引各种动物来到这里 and its nutrient-rich waters attract animals of all kinds.
海洋哺乳动物 比如虎鲸到这里来 Marine mammals like killer whales come here
捕食迁徙的鲑鱼 and intercept the migrating salmon.
这是世界上最富饶的海岸线之一 This is one of the richest coastlines
in the world.
还有一个原因使这里生物激增 But there is another reason why life proliferates here...
这些有平坦淤泥的海湾看起来很普通 These flat-bottomed silty coves may seem unremarkable,
它们不是完全自然形成 but they are not entirely natural.
现在我们知道数千年前 古人们就开始建造它们 We now know that ancient people began to create them
thousands of years ago
使得一种独特的动物更加繁荣 to encourage one particular animal
to flourish.
线索就埋在下面 The clues lie buried.
但有一种聪明的鸟儿 乌鸦 But crows, highly intelligent birds,
把它们挖了出来 dig them out.
蚌生活在淤泥下面 Clams need this silty substrate to live in,
但还是无法摆脱乌鸦 but they can't escape the crows.
把牠们挖出来只做了一半 Digging them out is only half the job.
还要去除外面的壳 The birds then have to get rid of the shell,
而牠们有绝招 and they know just how to do that.
[Crack]
低潮时 牠们很容易找到 At low tide,they are easy to spot
因为牠们会向外喷水 because they squirt water through their siphons.
牠们就这样呼吸 进食和排泄废物 That's how they breathe,eat, and eliminate waste.
我们最近才开始了解 We have only recently come to understand
为什么这里的蚌如此多 why the clams are here in such numbers.
最近航测发现了 Recent aerial surveys
在极低潮时 carried out at the very lowest tide
出现的重复图案岩石 showed repeated patterns of rocks.
因为这些岩石通常都在水下 But because these rocks are usually under water,
没有科学家注意到它们 no scientist had paid any attention to them.
只有居住在岩石上的第一民族 Only when the First Nationss People
living on the coast
提出质疑 were questioned
答案才被揭晓 did the answer become clear.
他们的祖先在经营这片海 Their ancestors had been farming the sea.
他们建造了一面墙 They built a wall
进而形成了一个人造海湾 which created an artificial cove.
使淤泥不断沉积在后面 Once silt accumulated behind it,
蚌就有了一大片家园 the clams had a huge area
可以在这里大量繁衍 in which to breed and proliferate.
在最低潮的时候 At the lowest tides,
人们收获成果 the people reaped the rewards...
捕捉蚌 collecting the clams,
和长在岩石上的海螺和海藻 but also the whelks and seaweed growing on the rocks.
古人们对延岸这一带的管理 The first peoples along the coast
有完善成熟的方法 had perfected sophisticated ways of cultivating wild food
in their environment.
尽管 Although the settlements
人们在定居点居住了数千年 where people lived for thousands of years
are gone,
他们建造的墙仍然很有效 the walls they built still serve their purpose.
并且不仅仅人类从中受了益 And it's not only humans that benefit from them.
浣熊有着极为独特而灵巧的爪子 Raccoons have particularly sensitive and dextrous paws
和细细的毛 equipped with thin hairs
使牠们能够在触摸到猎物前 that enable them to sense prey
预先发现猎物 before they actually touch it.
水貂还用牠们敏锐的眼睛 Mink, on the other hand, rely on their very sharp eyes
来发现猎物 to detect their prey.
人们很容易忘记 这海岸并不都是 It's easy to forget that the landscape of this coast
自然的景观 is not all natural.
如果没有人类 It's physically different
这里就会大不一样 than it would have been without humans.
有300多个蚌埕 There are almost 300 clam beds
在沿岸的小小区域 in this small area of coastline.
毋庸置疑 人造部分极大的增强了 These human-built features have undoubtedly increased
加拿大西海岸物种的多样性 the abundance and diversity of Canada's West Coast.
人们在这里沿岸 People have been here on this coast
生活了很长时间 for a very long time.
在最后一次冰河时代末期 At the end of the last ice age,
这里是 this was the main human migration route
人类从西伯利亚到北美洲大陆 from Siberia
重要的迁移路线 into the continent.
人类沿着海岸向南走 People came south by skirting along this coast.
这里有鱼 哺乳动物 植物可以吃 Here, there were fish, mammals,and plants to eat...
生活在这里比穿过冰雪覆盖的内陆 And easier travelling conditions
更容易 than across the ice-covered interior.
鲑鱼沿河逆流而上 And the salmon, swimming up the rivers,
成了活靶子 would have been an easy target.
牠们进入河流入海口后就不再进食 As they wait in the estuaries,they stop eating,
体力开始变差 and their bodies begin to deteriorate.
当鲑鱼离开海水后 As salmon leave the saltwater,
发生了巨大的改变 their bodies undergo major changes
为产卵做准备 to get ready for spawning.
牠们必须在限期内到达产卵地 They've got a limited time to reach their spawning ground,
牠们中的一部分有很长的路要走 and some of them have a long way to go.
前方危机四伏 And there are many dangers ahead.
[Wolf howl echoes]
雨林狼谨慎的沿着岸边前行 Rainforest wolves prowl along coastal inlets.
这是个富饶的猎场 These are rich hunting grounds.
狼基本上都在夜间活动 Wolves are mostly nocturnal,
所以白天很少在旷野见到牠们 so it's rare to see them out in the open
in broad daylight.
一群狼被海滩上鲑鱼大餐所吸引 A pack has been attracted by the prospect
of feasting on the salmon in this intertidal zone.
低潮的时候 水很少 At low tide,there's less water,
捕鱼更容易 which makes the task easier.
看起来狼捕到的鱼 It seems as if the wolves
多得吃不完了 are killing more than they can ever eat.
一只狼 A single pack
在几个小时内可以捕到200条以上的鱼 can land more than 200 salmon in a few hours.
似乎没有什么理由让牠们这么干 But there's a good reason for them to do so...
狼不吃鱼肉 the wolves won't eat the flesh of salmon,
鲑鱼身上的寄生虫对牠们是致命的 as it may contain parasites that can kill them.
但牠们喜欢吃鱼头 But they do like to eat the heads.
鱼脑营养丰富且没有寄生虫 The brains are very rich,and free of the deadly parasite.
鲑鱼身上最有营养的部分是鱼皮 But the most nutritious part of the salmon
富含脂肪 is the skin, rich in fat,
不吃肉很难做到这样 and this is hard to get at without eating the flesh.
因此狼让其牠动物为牠们做前期准备 So the wolves let other animals prepare it for them.
牠们故意把捕到的鱼丢在河边 They deliberately leave their catch
on the side of the river
让那些动物们一目了然 in plain sight of the scavengers.
乌鸦和老鹰来坐享其成 The ravens and eagles then come in for easy pickings.
牠们吃鲜肉 They eat the fresh flesh,
留下鱼皮和鱼骨 but leave behind the skin and bones.
当这些残骸被处理完毕 When the remains are sufficiently decomposed,
狼群就回来吃这些健康的遗留物 the wolves come back and eat the healthy leftovers.
无论这些鲑鱼直到哪里 Wherever they go,
牠们都在滋养着沿岸的野生动物 the salmon nourish the wildlife on the coast.
鲑鱼养活着森林里 There are more than 200 species in these forests
200多种动物 that feed on the salmon.
[Wolf howls]
[Howling continues]
摆脱了狼群 Once they are past the wolves,
前方依然是漫漫长路 they still have a long journey ahead of them.
鲑鱼拥有超凡的嗅觉 Salmon have an amazing sense of smell.
牠们能察觉到十亿分之一的 They are able to detect one particle in a billion
这可能是孵化自己的河流的特征 that may be characteristic of the river where they hatched.
越往上游走 水流就越急 As they head upstream,the current gets stronger.
在有些地方 But with some sections,
河水变得如此汹涌 the river becomes so fast and steep
牠们根本无法游过 they can no longer swim against it.
牠们必须离开水通过 They have to leave the water to get through.
通过高速摄影机 With special cameras,
把实际速度降低80倍来回放 this action is slowed down 80 times its regular speed.
在这样的速度 At this speed,
能够清晰的看到 it's evident
牠们如何将尾巴 how they use their tails as rudders
作为舵来控制身体轨迹 to help keep them upright and on track.
这样的跳跃 These jumps are the equivalent
相当于人类跳过四层楼的高度 of a human leaping over a four-storey building.
牠们的生死取决于 The precision of their jumps and the exact point of re-entry
准确的跳跃和返回的确切点 can make the difference between life and death here.
但如果牠们要到达产卵地 But if they are to reach their spawning grounds,
这里是必经之路 they have to get through.
鲑鱼们逆流而上 Salmon are heading upstream
准确到达产卵地 to spawn at the exact point
并让卵自行孵化 where they themselves were hatched,
这是一次极其冒险的旅程 and it's a very perilous journey.
白头海雕在河边筑巢 Bald Eagles nest near the rivers,
等待着鲑鱼 waiting for the salmon.
牠们的视力非常敏锐 They have very sharp eyesight...
还有强大的爪子 And powerful talons.
这里还有其牠的猎食者 There are other predators here too.
不列颠哥伦比亚省有大约15万头黑熊 Some 150,000 Black bears live in British Columbia alone.
为数众多在前方的河里 Huge numbers of them head for the rivers
截击鲑鱼 to intercept the salmon.
跟人类一样 黑熊食谱很杂 Like humans,bears have a very varied diet.
在一年里的其它时间 牠们几乎都吃素 During the rest of the year,they are mostly vegetarian.
这是唯一一次他们可以获得高蛋白食物 This is the only time they can get high-protein food.
但鲑鱼在这个阶段的旅程 But the salmon, at this stage of their journey,
依然精力充沛 are still full of energy,
不易抓住 and they are not easy to catch.
黑熊坚持不懈 终于有了回报 Eventually,the bear's persistence pays off.
抓到一个大家伙 When they catch a particularly big salmon,
黑熊通常会将鱼拿进森林 bears often take it into the forest
偷偷地吃掉 to eat it under cover.
在不列颠哥伦比亚省 黑熊和其牠食腐动物 In British Columbia,bears and scavengers
每年会将数千吨的鲑鱼 carry thousands of tons of salmon
带进森林 into the forest
each year.
如果有很多可吃的鲑鱼 When there are lots of salmon available,
黑熊通常只吃一条鱼的四分之一 bears usually only eat about a quarter of a fish,
只吃脂肪最多的部分 selecting the fatty parts.
剩下的鱼骨鱼肉会烂掉 The rest of the body and the bones rot away
营养着树林 and nourish the trees...
牠们会长成 And they grow into
世界上最高的树 some of the tallest in the world.
鲑鱼尸体制造出了最好的肥料 Salmon carcasses make the best fertilizer,
为这里的森林提供了高达80%的海洋氮 providing up to 80%
of the marine-based nitrogen in these forests.
这里的云杉 Spruce trees here can be three times larger
可以长成三倍于其它没有鲑鱼地区的树 than those growing close to rivers
where there are no salmon.
总共有六个品种鲑鱼 There are six different species of Pacific salmon,
包括虹鳟 including Steelhead trout,
在一年里不同时间生活在内陆 that run inland at different times of the year.
这是红鲑 This one is the sockeye.
幸存者到达产卵地 The survivors have reached the spawning grounds.
雌鱼在碎石堆筑巢 The females make nests in the gravel
产卵 to lay their eggs.
雄鱼在游在旁边 使牠们受精 The males, swimming alongside,fertilize them.
有一些鲑鱼会受到当地居民的帮助 Some of the salmon used to get a helping hand
from the locals.
海特萨克族 自称大马哈鱼（鲑鱼）人 The Heiltsuk, who call themselves the Salmon People,
非常清楚鲑鱼产卵习性 know the salmon's spawning behaviour very well
有极好的方法帮助牠们 and had remarkable ways of helping them.
当卵刚产下 As soon as the eggs were laid and fertilized,
牠们就会被小心的 they were gathered
收集在雪松制成的盒子里 and carefully placed in cedar bentwood boxes
加入苔藓 保持湿润 lined with moss to keep them moist.
然后再带走 They were then taken away
放进不同的河里 and put in a different free-running river.
这给了牠们新家园 This helped populate new streams.
他们一直变样做 And the effects were long lasting,
鲑鱼一如既往的 as salmon always return
回到牠们产卵的地方 to the place where they hatched to lay their eggs.
因此新的鲑鱼种群产生 So new groups of salmon were created
滋养着一代又一代的人类和野生动物 that fed communities,both humans and wildlife,
for generations to come.
这些大松树构成的美丽丛林景观 This great forested landscape of huge coniferous trees
活生生的证明他们是如此的成功 is living proof of how successful they were.
世界上最大的温带雨林 The world's largest temperate rainforest
依旧茂盛 still flourishes
最大的功劳属于回游的鲑鱼 largely due to the nutrients provided by returning salmon.
山区内陆条件比沿岸森林地区差多了 Conditions in the mountains inland
are tougher than the coastal forests.
越来越困难了 It's harder to get around.
很少的水和植物 There is less plant life,less water,
因此动物也很少见 and so fewer animals.
但在这里生活的野生动植物 But the wildlife that lives here
已经习惯了这里的极端环境 has adapted to these extreme conditions.
野大白羊喜欢呆高高的 陡峭的山峰 Dall sheep like tall, steep mountain peaks
这能给牠们安全感 where they feel safe.
但牠们也必须到山下来进食 But they have to come down to lower altitudes to eat.
肉食动物正在这里等候牠们 And here, predators await them.
很少在白天看见隐居的猞猁 The secretive and solitary lynx is rarely seen in the day.
北美灰熊很抢眼 But grizzly bears are bolder.
成年羊非常机敏 很难抓到 The adult sheep are too nimble to be caught here...
在整个春天产恙季节 During the spring lambing season,
新生羊羔很脆弱 the newborns are particularly vulnerable
牠们必须快速学会 and have to learn quickly
如何穿梭于崇山峻岭之间 about how to move up and down the mountain.
牠们必须跟妈妈呆在一起 因为到处都有危险 And they must keep close to mom,as there's danger everywhere.
但最大的威胁是难以被发现 But their greatest threat is hardest to spot.
金雕能在两公里之外发现 Golden Eagles can spot a newborn lamb
新生小羊羔 from two kilometres away.
牠们能用爪子抓起超过自身体重的东西 They can pick up more than their own body weight
并飞走 and fly off with it in their talons.
但是小羊生长很快 But the lambs grow fast.
在几周内 Within a few weeks,
体重迅速增长 金雕再也无法抓起牠们 they will be too heavy for the eagles to lift.
只要跟妈妈呆在一起 The lambs will be safe
小羊羔就是安全的 as long as they stay with their mothers.
金雕俯冲下来企图冲散牠们 But the swooping eagle tries to separate them.
[Guttural-sounding "baas"]
离群的小羊羔危在旦夕 Away from the main herd,a lamb is in real danger.
[Lamb squealing]
[Lamb squeals echo]
想在大山中活命就要有特别的本领 Surviving in the mountains requires special skills.
欧洲殖民者将洛基山脉 The European settlers called the rockies
称为 不可逾越的山峰 the "impenetrable peaks"
并且必须要有当地熟悉的向导 and needed the expertise of the local people
带路才行 to guide them through.
许多不列颠哥伦比亚省第一居民 Many of the First Nations of British Columbia
一生都呆在西部大山中的家里 were completely at home in the western mountains.
整个家庭要花费数周 Entire families would trek for weeks
才能穿过大山到达海岸 to get through these ranges to reach the coast.
在那里 他们用野兽皮毛 There, they traded furs and skins
交换鱼油和海藻 for fish oil and seaweed.
尽管人们能在冬天走出大山 While humans could move out of the mountains in winter,
但野生动物必须适应变化的环境 the wildlife here has to adapt to the changing conditions.
大角羊 Bighorn sheep
呆在高高的 遥远的 山风不断的地方 head to high, remote, windswept areas.
在这里 牠们能轻易的除掉冰雪 Here, they can easily scrape away snow and ice
挖出被埋的青草 to expose buried grasses.
大角羊通常以性别分组 Bighorn sheep often split into gender groups...
母羊长着短角 females with shorter horns,
公羊长着弯曲的大角 and males with large, curled horns.
这些角可达15公斤重 These horns can weigh 15 kilograms
上面有生长年轮 and have growth rings
由此可以判断牠们的年龄 from which you can determine the age of the animal,
就像树木的年轮 rather like rings in the trunk of a tree.
那些长着最大角的羊有着最高的地位 Those with the largest horns have the highest status.
调养了一个夏天 公羊们膘肥体壮 Having fed all summer,the rams are in peak condition.
通过闻母羊的尿味 Inhaling pheromones in a female's urine,
公羊能够判断母羊是否发情 they can determine her breeding readiness.
但牠们首先要争夺交配权 But first, they have to sort out mating rights.
牠们开始嘲弄对方 They start with playground-like taunts.
通过踢和顶撞 弱者被淘汰 With kicks and shoves,the weaker rams are tested,
牠们的地位也确定下来 and their social rank determined.
最后 一只大公羊离群而去 At last, one big male peels off,
and that lays the gauntlet down to all the others.
公羊需要通过战斗来证明自己最利害 Anyone who feels strong enough now needs to fight to prove it.
牠们的冲击速度可达每小时30公里 They charge at 30 kilometres an hour,
且撞击力非常大 and the impact is titanic.
双层的头盖骨是为了保护大脑 Skulls are double-layered to protect their brains.
争斗可能持续24小时 These clashes can go on for a full 24 hours.
获胜者在羊群交配权 The winner now has the mating rights
持续一整个冬天 for the entire herd.
小羊羔会在春天降生 The lambs will be born in spring,
到那时青草也会一同长起来 timed to coincide with the arrival
of the lush new growth of grass.
但在这之前，时间很难熬 But before then, times will be hard.
[Wind whistles]
在加拿大西部 In the west of Canada,
气温下降 temperatures are falling,
环境更加恶劣 and conditions are about to get much tougher.
夏天的好日子已经结束 Summer's rich bounty has come to an end.
在深冬来临之前 But one last wildlife spectacle will play out
还有最后一种野生动物 before the full force of winter arrives,
即将在一个不可思议的地方开演 and it happens in a most unlikely place.
这里是北部育空地区 This is the Northern Yukon Territory
11月份 in november,
靠近北极圈 near the Arctic Circle.
在这样的纬度看到这样的大树是极不寻常的 It is extremely unusual
to see trees of this size
at such northern latitudes.
秘密在河里被发现 The secret can be found in this river.
地下泉保持这里不冻 It has an underground spring that keeps it from freezing.
整个地区因此彻底改变 The whole area is transformed as a result.
这个在晚季的流水为鲑鱼 This late-season open water
提供了产卵的地点 supports a salmon spawning migration.
这里就像南方数千公里外的温带雨林一样 And as in the temperate rainforest
鲑鱼的尸体滋养了这里 thousands of kilometres further south,
使这些秀丽的云杉枝繁叶茂 salmon carcasses allow these spruce trees
to flourish.
这些鲑鱼经过数千公里的旅行 These chum salmon
才到达那里 have travelled thousands of kilometres
to get here.
大约每一千只卵 For every thousand or so eggs laid here,
只能有一条鲑回到这里 only one adult salmon will return.
这些垂死的鱼儿 They are now at death's door
捕食者能轻而易举的抓牠们 and easy pickings for any predator
牠们到达那里已经很晚了 that can get here so late in the year.
灰熊的进食期有限 Grizzly bears have only a limited period to eat.
尽管看起来像是盛宴 Even though it looks like an easy feast,
但实际上是 this is actually a desperate struggle
绝望的生存之战 for survival.
牠们必须迅速吃掉大量的鲑鱼 They need to devour huge amounts of salmon
以确保 to ensure
自己渡过漫长 寒冷的北方严冬 that they'll get through the long, cold, northern winter.
牠们每天要够吃下四十公斤鱼 They may eat 40 kilograms of fish,
长二十公斤体重 then gain up to two kilograms in body weight
in a single day.
所有的鲑鱼都要努力 不是活就是死 Any salmon will do, alive or dead.
经过几周的催肥进食 In a matter of weeks on this rich, fatty diet,
灰熊的体型彻底改变 the shape of the bears is completely transformed.
灰熊们在这里呆到很晚 Grizzlies stay out late here,
勇敢面对零下二十度的气温 braving the -20 degree temperatures.
冰在牠们身上形成了厚厚的保温层 Ice forms on their thick, insulated coats.
原住居民 The Vuntut Gwitchin First Nations
曾经称牠们为盔甲熊 used to call them "Armour Bears,"
因为居民们认为弓箭 as they thought arrows could never pierce
无法穿透这些碎冰块 the thick shards of ice.
灰熊通常单独活动 Grizzlies are usually solitary.
但在这里 有四十头灰熊住得很近 But around here, 40 bears gather quite closely together
共享这片森林 to share the feast.
这里等级制度森严 There is a strict hierarchy here,
不仅取决于块头大小 还有脾气 based not only on size,but temperament.
[Bear growling]
有一个奇特的事情 This is a unique event.
灰熊之前 Never before
从未大量出现在北极圈 have grizzly bears been shown thriving on the Arctic Circle,
牠们生命中大部分时间 eating salmon that spent most of their lives
都是在遥远的太平洋 以鲑鱼为食 far away in the Pacific Ocean.
这里有如此壮丽景色 But there is an additional reason
还有另一个原因 for this extraordinary sight.
Vuntut Gwitchin这里的首批居民 The Vuntut Gwitchin First Nations group here
对这个地方充满了崇敬 have always revered this place
并保护它 and protected it.
他们约定 They agreed among themselves
任何人不准开发或破坏它 that no one should be allowed to exploit or destroy it.
他们公认 They recognized it
作为一个取食的地方应该总是能够找到食物 as a place where food could always be found,
哪怕是在深冬 even in the depths of winter.
现在这里已经成为地区公园 Today, it's a territorial park,
灰熊们在这里平静的生活着 and the grizzlies are left in peace.
从北极到雨林 From the Arctic to the rainforest,
加拿大的这部分地区 this part of Canada is filled
到处都是千姿百态的野生动物的亮丽风景 with astonishing wildlife spectacles.
在这里 It is this co-existence and interdependence
动物 人和美丽的风景共存 of animals, people,and the landscape