我们将踏上一段奇妙的旅程 We are going on an incredible journey.
驾车穿越世界上最广袤 Driving through the biggest
也最扑朔迷离的国家之一 and one of the most bewildering countries on Earth.
太危险了 This is so dangerous!
我们在高速公路中间抛锚了 We're in the middle of a motorway.
驾驶两辆截然不同的汽车 Taking two very different cars...
是辆坦克 It's a tank!
苏维埃社会主义共和国联盟 共产党人制造 "CCCP". Built by Communists.
踏上两段截然不同的旅程 on two very different road trips.
朝哪开 这样要紧吗 Which way? Does it matter?
为期三周 长达数千公里的 Three weeks and thousands of miles
俄罗斯自驾之旅 on the roads of Russia.
自苏联解体至今已过去了二十五年 Almost 25 years after the collapse of the Soviet Union,
俄罗斯正在我们眼前发生着日新月异的变化 Russia is a country transforming before our eyes.
要说俄罗斯里西方化的城市 If ever there was an argument for Russia looking West,
就是这里了 this is it.
新一代的俄国人向往着西方的汽车 A whole new generation of Russians desire Western cars.
以及随之而来的生活方式 And the lifestyle that goes with them.
价格十万英镑左右 It's about 100,000 pounds.
但老牌苏联品牌同样在这里 But this is also a country where the old Soviet brands
占据着重要的地位 still hold great sway.
拉达 拉达 还是拉达 Lada. Lada. Lada.
这是个注重忠诚和光荣传统的国家 And it's a country of old loyalties and proud traditions.
准备好在俄罗斯打猎了吗 Am I ready to hunt in Russia?
共产党过去的统治 Where Russia's Communist past
俄罗斯共产党
时至今日仍展现出巨大的影响力 still exerts a powerful pull.
他们今天把所有的大玩具都带出来了 They've got all the toys out today!
这个曾经的军事强国 So can this former military superpower
能否成为新兴经济强国呢 ever become a new economic power?
如果答案是肯定的 And if it could,
那这对于俄罗斯乃至全球 what would that mean for Russia
又意味着什么呢 and the rest of the world?
驾
车
看
俄
国
原创翻译 双语字幕
■
本字幕由人人影视字幕组翻译 禁止用作任何商业盈利行为
翻译：潇湘月影 宝宝 jimmyflower 滚成一个团子
Gabrielle 喃喃 令狐伟 chelfi
黑海之滨的索契 The city of Sochi on the Black Sea.
Gabrielle 喃喃 令狐伟 chelfi
校对：麦结 时间轴： 宝宝
对于普京总统和俄国富人阶级来说 For the likes of President Putin and Russia's wealthy elite,
后期：蜡笔小新的眉毛 总监：麦结
这里是绝佳的度假胜地 it is a favourite holiday haunt.
后期：蜡笔小新的眉毛 总监：麦结
然而 对于大多数人来说 For most of the world, though,
索契因举办2014年冬奥会而闻名于外 Sochi is now famous as the location of the 2014 Winter Olympics.
来 活泼一点 Put a bit more life in it, come on.
我喜欢 Hey, I love it!
这是史上最昂贵的奥林匹克运动会 The most expensive Olympic Games ever.
-对 -看 就是那 - Oh, yeah. - Look. Now we're talking.
它们看起来像是停泊在那里的宇宙飞船 They look like kind of, you know, spaceships just landing.
这些精心设计的 It is all designed to
超现代化 前卫而动感的建筑 present Russia to the world as ultra-modern,
将俄国展现给了世界 forward-thinking and very dynamic.
看呐 安妮塔 Look at this, Anita.
-美极了 不是吗 -没错 太棒了 - It's beautiful, isn't it? - It is. It's really good.
我喜欢这些建筑的造型 I love the shape of these buildings.
特维尔和迪恩得给咱们让路啦 Move over Torvill and Dean.
双人花样滑冰运动员 冬奥会冠军
没错 Oh, yeah.
-我停不下来 -我动不了 - I can't stop! - I'm not moving.
俄罗斯政府耗资三百亿英镑 The Russian Government has spent 30 billion pounds
在此举办冬奥会 on hosting the Games here.
我来了 安妮塔 Coming your way, Anita!
这是上届温哥华冬奥会的二十五倍 25 times what was spent in Vancouver at the last Winter Games.
不 别过来 我会摔倒的 No! Seriously, no! I'm going to fall!
预计全世界将有三十亿观众 And with an expected global TV audience
在电视机前收看直播 of three billion people,
他们不能有丝毫疏忽 they don't want any slip-ups.
-真不错 -我喜欢这里 很不错对吧 - It's lovely. - I like it. It's nice, isn't it?
-这里真是个好地方 -这里和你 - It's a really nice place. - This is not what
想象中的俄罗斯不一样吧 you expect of Russia, is it?
完全不同 Not at all
这里也不像是 and it's not where you'd expect
能够举办冬奥会的地方 to have the Winter Olympics either.
因为这里是亚热带天堂吗 What, sub-tropical paradise?
我懂的 这里很特别 I know. It's extraordinary.
你也没想到会有柠檬吧 You don't think of lemons, do you,
它们就生长在海边 growing down by the beach?
全世界的目光都将聚焦俄罗斯 And the world's eyes are going to be on Russia.
-这里成了俄罗斯的橱窗 -太美了 - What a showcase. - It's amazing.
很棒 对吧 Hey. It's nice, isn't it?
真的很棒 It's really nice.
对于我们来说 For us,
索契是两段精彩旅程的起点 Sochi is the starting point for two extraordinary journeys
我们将去探索 to discover the real Russia
这扇迷人的橱窗以外的真实俄罗斯 that lies far beyond this glamorous shop window.
我将去探索新兴现代的俄罗斯 I'll be seeking out this new and very modern Russia.
索契
塔甘罗格
全程三千多公里 途径莫斯科 It'll take me more than 2,000 miles through Moscow,
莫斯科
圣彼得堡 如果不出意外的话 St Petersburg and finally, if I make it,
莫斯科
圣彼得堡
最终抵达北极圈内的摩尔曼斯克 to Murmansk high above the Arctic Circle.
摩尔曼斯克
圣彼得堡
莫斯科
塔甘罗格
与此同时 我将探索俄罗斯古老的一面 Meanwhile I'll be exploring old Russia to discover
索契
塔甘罗格
索契
探究其引以为豪的历史 how its proud history
伏尔加格勒
以及共产主义如何影响当今的俄罗斯 and Communist past still shapes Russia today.
陶里亚蒂
这趟旅程将带我穿过俄罗斯的农业与工业中心 It's a journey that will lead me through the agricultural and industrial heartlands
彼尔姆
叶卡捷琳堡
卡拉巴什
深入俄国在亚洲的领土 into Asia and right to the edge of
陶里亚蒂
彼尔姆
叶卡捷琳堡
莫斯科
伏尔加格勒
圣彼得堡
塔甘罗格
陶里亚蒂
彼尔姆
叶卡捷琳堡
卡拉巴什
莫斯科
圣彼得堡
伏尔加格勒
塔甘罗格
摩尔曼斯克
索契
抵达辽阔的西伯利亚荒野边缘 the vast Siberian wilderness.
是这辆吗 Is this it?
驾驶两辆截然不同的车 Two very different journeys
完成两段截然不同的旅程 in two very different cars.
我喜欢 真是辆钢铁怪兽 I like it! What a monster.
-钢铁怪兽 -对吧 - Monster! - Isn't it?
-俄国怪兽 -俄国怪兽 没错 - Russian monster. - Russian monster. Yeah, exactly!
我将驾驶经典的乌阿斯-469越野车 I'll be driving a classic UAZ-469
同行的还有副驾驶萨沙和机械师叶夫根尼 with the help of support driver Sasha and mechanic Yevgeny.
叶夫根尼是索契最好的机械师 Yevgeny is best mechanic in the Sochi.
他是索契最好的机械师 Yevgeny's the best mechanic in Sochi?
-索契最好的 -真是个好消息 - In Sochi. - I'm glad to hear it.
驾驶这么老的车应该需要一位机械师 It looks like we might need it with a car this old.
虽然制造于七十年代 It might have been made in the '70s,
但这不值一提 but that is nothing
因为这辆红军使用过的苏联汽车非常耐用 for a Soviet vehicle tough enough for the Red Army.
-引擎真不错 -马力十足 - Quite an engine. - It's very powerful.
看呐 Look at this.
"苏维埃社会主义共和国联盟" "Cccp."
苏联 苏联 共产党人制造的 USSR. USSR! Built by Communists.
在俄罗斯就需要这么一辆车 That's what we need in Russia!
共产党人制造 Built by Communists!
我得说 I tell you what,
我认为这辆车比安妮塔的车好多了 this is going to be a lot better than Anita's car, I reckon.
有人向我保证给我找辆更特别的车 But I've been promised something rather special.
我的天呐 那是什么车 Oh, my good God. What is that?!
凯佰赫 T-98 The Kombat T-98
为寡头精英量身打造 is a car fit for an oligarch.
它自称是世界上最快 It's claimed to be one of the fastest
最奢华的装甲车之一 and most luxurious armoured vehicles in the world.'
你好啊 Hello there.
你好 Hello.
塞奇 很高兴见到你 Sergei, pleased to meet you.
我也是 Nice to meet you.
这是...这是台坦克 It is...it's a tank!
十万英镑能买到的是 ￡100,000 buys
全方位的安全保障 a guarantee of safety from just about anything.
天啊 Oh, my God!
我这辈子从没见过这样的东西 I've never seen anything like it in my life!
你看到这窗户有多厚了 Have you seen the thickness of these windows?
谁开这辆车 谁拥有这辆车 Who drives this car? Who owns this car?
富人 一个很了解安全保护的人 Rich guys, a guy who know very good protection.
好吧 需要保护的富人 Right. OK. Rich guys who need protection.
-能给我说个名字吗 -我不知道名字 - Can you give me names? - I don't know names.
我赌他知道 I bet he does.
-是顶级机密 -顶级机密 - It's top secret. Top secret. - Top secret.
我很激动 I mean, I'm excited.
同时也目瞪口呆 I'm also petrified.
我们的车最好要是顶尖的 Our cars had better be up to it,
因为俄国道路无比危险 because Russian roads are notoriously dangerous.
危险到许多俄国人安装了车载摄像机 So dangerous that many Russians have installed dashcams
来为任何可能遇到的麻烦 to record evidence of any trouble
记录证据 they might get caught up in.
面对持续三周 With three weeks
将近八千公里的潜在威胁 and nearly 5,000 miles of potential mayhem,
我们将于明天启程 we set off tomorrow.
往上 往上 越来越高 Up, up, up and away!
但现在 我们有机会 Right now, though, with an afternoon to spare,
用一个下午的时间 there's a chance to
来探索索契崭新的奥林匹克滑雪场 explore Sochi's brand-new Olympic ski resort.
-真令人震惊 -棒极了 - This is impressive. - That is awesome.
到处都在建房子 是吧 Everywhere you go they're building something, aren't they?
所有的一切从零开始建造 The whole thing has been built from scratch
建造滑雪坡 滑雪跳台 to provide ski slopes, a ski jump
还有号称世上最安全的 and what's meant to be one of the safest bobsleigh runs
有舵雪橇赛道 in the world.
但这些建筑工程令公众指控政府腐败 But all this construction has led to allegations of corruption.
人们批评其造成的环境破坏 Stories of environmental damage
抨击政府无视当地居民意愿 and criticisms that Sochi has been turned into a giant building site
将索契变成了一个巨大的工地 with scant regard for local residents.
看看这个 塔基扬娜 这太糟糕了 Look at this! Tatyana, it's terrible!
是怎么发生的 So what actually happened?
所有墙都倒了
就像地震一样
房子曾经在这儿 So the house used to be here?
然后往那边滑移了 And it's shifted all that way?
塔基扬娜·斯基巴和她的邻居们相信 Tatyana Skiba and her neighbours believe
奥林匹克建筑工地中非法倾倒的垃圾 that illegal dumping from Olympic construction sites
导致了山体滑坡 has caused a landslide
毁坏了他们的家园 that has devastated their homes.
他们开始在这儿倒垃圾 建筑废料和砖块
看这些砖块多大
这些大混凝土块 These big chunks of concrete?
居民认为有关部门 Residents believe the authorities
无视了他们的困境 have ignored their plight.
然而政府却说没有任何腐败的证据 The government, though, has said there is no evidence of corruption.
要是没有奥林匹克建设 我的房子就不会倒塌
我的生活也不会支离破碎
所以你是说奥林匹克毁了你的生活 So you're saying the Olympics has ruined your life?
绝对是
我和贾斯汀已经感受到了 Justin and I were already getting a taste
这个国家鲜明的对比 of this country's very stark contrasts
在索契 and here in Sochi,
在崭新的俄罗斯之中 amid the brand spanking new,
旧俄罗斯从未消逝 old Russia is never far away.
仅在离光耀的奥林匹克体育场一步之遥之地 Just a stone's throw from the shiny Olympic stadiums,
有一位俄国最臭名昭著人物的奇特故居 there is a bizarre relic of one of Russia's most notorious figures.
我们到了 Wow, here we are.
斯大林的别墅 Stalin's villa.
这座度假别墅 The holiday home of
属于史上最大规模屠杀的凶手 one of the biggest mass murderers in history.
有点毛骨悚然啊 It's a bit creepy.
约瑟夫·斯大林从20世纪20年代中叶 Joseph Stalin led the Soviet Union from the mid 1920s
直到1953年去世执政苏联 until his death in 1953.
他用铁腕手段统治国家 He ruled with an iron grip,
令一个落后的国家 transforming a backward nation
摇身一变成为军事超级大国 into a military superpower.
但在他的统治下 许多人死去了 But under his rule millions died,
许多人被冠上国家敌人的罪名处死 many of them executed as enemies of the state.
这是斯大林的办公室 This is Stalin's office
这是斯大林 and there is Uncle Joe himself.
他在俄罗斯历史上如此重要 He is such an important figure in Russian history
以至国家现在仍处于他的影响之下 and he still casts a huge shadow over the country.
这是创立了苏联的人 You know, this is the man who built the Soviet Union,
真正使之成为强国 really made it the empire that it became.
但人们认为他杀的人 But he is reckoned to have killed more people
比地球上任何一人都要多 than anyone else on Earth,
比希特勒还多 including Hitler.
数百万的人遭他处死 Millions were executed by him.
数百万人在古拉格死去 Millions died in the gulags
古拉格: 苏联劳改集中营的管理机构
当然也有数百万人 and then of course millions died
在他尝试整顿农业时死去 when he tried to reorganise agriculture
当时发生了大规模饥荒 and there was a huge famine.
似乎即使是2014年索契冬奥会 It appears that even in Olympic Sochi in 2014
俄罗斯也无法逃避它的过去 Russia cannot escape its past.
有点顽皮 It's a bit naughty,
但我要试穿斯大林的外套 but I'm going to try on Stalin's coat.
让我感觉像个独裁者 Makes me feel like a great dictator.
今天是出发日 我已经准备好要出发了 Departure day and I'm all set to go.
我这辆重达四吨 身披防弹钢甲的战车 My four tonnes of blinged-up bulletproof steel
已经准备好接受 is ready to take on anything
俄罗斯道路带给我们的任何挑战 the Russian roads can throw at us.
不过贾斯汀的破车就难说啦 I'm not quite sure about Justin's, though!
太荒唐了 Ridiculous.
-安妮塔 -贾斯汀. - Anita. - Justin.
你开那车太丢脸了 That vehicle is a disgrace.
你觉得你是谁啊 蜘蛛侠还是谁的 Who do you think you are, Batman or something?
我在俄罗斯 在俄罗斯 I'm in Russia now. I'm in Russia.
我得让人眼前一亮 I need to make an impression
有谁能比得过凯佰赫呢 and what better than Kombat?
-我觉得这是弹孔 -装甲车 - I think it's got bullet holes there. - Armour plated.
也许吧 但子弹打上去都会反弹掉 Well, yeah, maybe, but the bullets will have just ricocheted off.
-真的吗 -真的 这是装甲车 - Seriously? - Seriously. It's armour plated.
这车不是好人开的 对吧 This car is not for good people to drive, is it?
是给像我这样的混蛋准备的 It's for badasses like me!
这是辆乌阿斯 So this is an UAZ.
我很喜欢 我得说这很有个性 I like it. I have to say it's got character.
进来吧 Jump in.
听听这声 现在加速 Oh, listen to that! Now rev that.
突然觉得我和这辆老共产党员乌阿斯 Suddenly me and my old communist UAZ
有点准备不充分呀 are feeling just a little inadequate.
我喜欢这汽油味儿 I like that petrol smell, though.
是啊 很新鲜的味道 有点... I know. There's something fresh... It's kind the...
外面挂着的这些线是干嘛的 And what about all these wires that are hanging out here?
-是啊 我们就保持 -增添点颜色 - Yeah, you know, we'll just keep... - Bit of colour.
保证电线触手可及 以防万一 Keep access in case we need it, you know.
-同志 -是啊 - Comrade. - Yeah.
祝你好运 注意安全 Good luck. Be safe.
-再见 我会的 -说真的 - I'll see you. Yeah, I will be. - Seriously.
-祝你好运 -再见 - Good luck. - See ya.
再见 Bye-bye.
-别了 -别了 - Dasvidaniya! - Dasvidaniya!
天啊 Oh my...
我向东行驶去探寻俄罗斯传统的一面 As I set off east to explore the traditional face of Russia,
索契
我从索契出发前往第一站 I'm heading from Sochi towards my very first destination -
斯塔夫罗波尔
索契
斯塔夫罗波尔
斯塔夫罗波尔 俄国农业腹地 Stavropol and Russia's agricultural heartlands.
最终上路的感觉棒极了 It feels great to be on the road at last.
比我想象的快一些 It's a bit faster than I thought it was going to be.
这车开着真不错 She's running really nicely.
我是说 它有37年历史了 I mean, 37 years old,
但仍然还是一部挺值得开的车 but it's still a, you know, reasonable car to drive.
走吧 出发上高速 Here we go. Head out on the highway!
但很快车就出了问题 But there was a problem.
老天 Jesus.
该死的 Ah, shit.
简直是在开玩笑 I don't believe it.
这太危险了 This is so dangerous!
我们就在高速公路中间 We're in the middle of the motorway.
叶夫根尼 叶夫根尼 Yevgeny! Yevgeny!
引擎突然就熄火了 It just lost power.
引擎坏了吗
我就一直往前开 I was going along
然后它突然开始"嘟咚 嘟咚"的 and it started going dudum, dudum, dudum.
我们才开出索契十分钟 叶夫根尼 We're, like, ten minutes out of Sochi, Yevgeny!
这买的是什么东西啊 老兄 What have we bought, man?!
可能这车不想离开索契
好吧 有可能 Yeah, that may be true!
但我们要开三千公里 差不多两千英里 We're supposed to go like 3,000 kilometres, 2,000 miles.
怎么样 What is it?
[俄语]
干得好 叶夫根尼 Well done, Yevgeny.
几分钟后 经过索契顶级机修工 Thankfully a few minutes of tender loving care
细心检查之后 from Sochi's top mechanic...
感觉不错 运作正常 It feels good. In gear.
我们再次出发 ..And we were going again.
贾斯汀还在挣扎着走出索契时 While Justin was struggling just to get out of Sochi,
我的豪华坦克正在飞速驰骋 my luxury tank was eating up the miles.
我在开坦克 I'm driving a tank!
我们会变成好朋友的 我和凯佰赫 We're going to be good friends, me and the Kombat.
别惹我 老兄 小心碾碎你 Don't try and take me on, mate. I'll crush you.
我计划开出644公里后 I was aiming to travel 400 miles
索契
抵达港口城市塔甘罗格 to the port city of Taganrog.
塔甘罗格
这是我探索资本主义新俄国 It was the first stop on my quest to discover
旅程的第一站 a new capitalist Russia.
一座充满活力的企业家城市 A vibrant city of entrepreneurs.
-感觉安全吗 塞奇 -没错 - Do you feel safe, Sergei? - Yes, yes, yes.
-很有安全感 -那就好 - Yes. I feel safe. - Good, good, good.
尽管这辆车的速度很快 But as well as eating up the miles,
但我发现它实在是太耗油了 I was also discovering that my Kombat simply drinks fuel.
来吧 Here we go.
这里能看到加了多少油 That's how many litres are going in.
非常多 A lot.
它喝了个够 She's had a feed.
但俄国是世界上最大的石油储备国之一 But with one of the world's biggest oil reserves,
汽油在这里很便宜 petrol here is very cheap.
这就好了 There we go.
在寡头式的奢华座驾中驾驶了几小时之后 The hours passed in oligarch-style luxury
我们终于进入塔甘罗格郊区 before we finally entered the outskirts of Taganrog.
这里就是塔甘罗格 这是一座工业城市 So this is Taganrog. This is an industrial city.
五条河流汇聚在塔甘罗格 Five rivers meet here in Taganrog.
它有着悠久的贸易和商业历史 It's got a long history of trading, business
事实上 and there are actually
现在这座城市里有一万多位企业家 10,000 entrepreneurs in this city right now
我正打算前去拜访其中的一位 and I'm off to meet one of them.
百万富翁康斯坦丁·萨文科 Millionaire Konstantin Savenko
是俄罗斯新兴资本家中的一员 is one of the new Russian capitalists.
我是个白手起家的生意人 I am a businessman and I made myself.
我觉得最重要的事就是开心 The most for me is to be happy.
抓住共产主义时代结束时的商机 Seizing the opportunity of the end of Communism,
康斯坦丁于1993开始创业 Konstantin started his own business in 1993,
很显然他现在收获颇丰 and it's clear he's now reaping the rewards.
和全世界其他有钱人一样 And like rich people the world over,
他们选择的车都是 the car of choice?
德国的一个奢侈品牌 A luxury German brand.
康斯坦丁 为什么你会选择开宝马 Konstantin, why do you drive a BMW
而不是开俄国车 and why not a Russian car?
因为我 Because I...
因为我有钱 开得起 I have got enough money to have one.
这里就是你的面包厂吗 So this is your bakery?
是的 这就是我的小面包厂 Yes. This is our small bakery.
康斯坦丁的迷你帝国包括了16家超市 Konstantin's mini empire includes 16 supermarkets,
以及相配套的仓库和工厂 as well as warehouses and factories.
都用于生产面包 All built around making bread.
每天我们要生产差不多七千个 Every day we do maybe 7,000...
-面包 -没错 - Loaves of bread? - Yes.
-七千个吗 -没错 - 7,000? - Yes.
谢谢 Thank you. Spasibo.
[俄语]
-我看着像面包师吗 -看着不错 - Do I look like a baker? - Nice.
-你会雇我吗 -待在塔甘罗格吧 别走了 - Would you employ me? - Stay in Taganrog, please.
-留在塔甘罗格吗 -对 - Stay in Taganrog? - Yes.
全新的俄罗斯不仅只有超级富有的企业寡头 This new Russia isn't only about the super rich oligarchs.
还有更多更平常一些的百万富翁 It's also about more every day millionaires,
就像康斯坦丁这样的 like Konstantin.
看我的 我做的还不错 There we go. Look, I'm doing all right here.
我觉得我开启了新的职业生涯 I think I've got another career.
这块市场竞争不大吗 Is there not much competition?
-应该有那种很大的面包公司吧 -没错 - Are there not big, big bread companies? - Yes, yes, yes.
塔甘罗格有差不多15家面包牌子 There are nearly 15 bakers in Taganrog.
我们必须生产出最好的面包 We must do the best bread.
-你们生产的是最好的吗 -我觉得是 - Do you do the best bread? - I think so.
这是最好的面包 This is the best bread.
这样的企业见证了25年来 Businesses like this are evidence that in the 25 years
共产主义俄国倒台后俄罗斯的变化 after the fall of Communism Russia is transforming.
同一时间 我正深入探索俄罗斯传统的一面 Meanwhile, I was heading well into old Russia.
向东开出483公里 300 miles to the east
深入斯塔夫罗波尔边疆区的玉米种植区 and deep inside the rich corn belt of Stavropol Krai.
这里的乡村似乎恒古不变 The countryside here seems completely timeless.
我们来到了这片广阔平原 So we've come into this great plain
俄罗斯人称之为"食品柜" and they call this area the larder,
俄罗斯的"面包篮" 你看这里 the bread basket of Russia. And just look at it.
这片富饶的黑土地一直延伸到蓝色地平线中 These rich black fields stretching out to the blue horizon.
让人叹为观止 Spectacular.
俄罗斯的乡村地区 Russia's countryside
在共产主义时期进行过 was the scene of
史上最大规模的社会实验 the biggest social experiment of the Communist era.
数百万小型私人农庄被国家接管 Millions of small private farms were taken over
合并为一个庞大的集体农庄 and combined into huge collectives
所有权统归国有 under the single ownership of the state.
当苏联解体时 When the Soviet Union collapsed,
集体农庄的股份 shares in the collective farms
被分配给农庄工人 were given to the workers.
在那之后私营公司开始 Now what's been happening ever since is that corporate interests
收购这些小股份 have been buying up those shares,
创造了巨大的私人农庄 creating vast private farms.
这片广袤田野的所有权 These enormous fields have slid
从国有转变为大型企业私有 from the sole ownership of the state to the sole ownership of big business.
-谢谢 -你好 - Spasibo! - Hey!
[俄语]
我上来啦 Here we go.
怪兽般的机器啊 Whoa, what a monster.
这很需要技术 你得直线前进 Ah, it's quite skilled. You have to line it up.
这就像是一只巨型昆虫 It's like a giant insect
吞噬掉所有挡住它去路的东西 just devouring everything in its path.
农庄规模之大让人膛目结舌 The scale is simply staggering.
这座农庄占地18210公顷 This one farm occupies 45,000 acres,
181平方千米 70 square miles,
比一座普通英国农庄大了数百倍 hundreds of times bigger than the average farm in Britain.
现在正是丰收的季节 So at the moment it's harvest time
在帕维尔的农场 and Pavel has 50 of
每天都有五十辆巨大的联合收割机在运行 these huge combine harvesters working every day.
五十辆联合收割机啊 50 combine harvesters.
在共产主义体制下 这种规模的农场 A farm this size under Communism
曾为上千人提供了工作机会 provided work for thousands of people.
今天 科技的发展和企业效率的提高 Today technology and corporate efficiencies
使这样的农场仅需要三百名雇员 mean it now employs just 300.
农场主帕维尔·佩特罗维奇很幸福 Farm manager Pavel Petrovitch is a happy man.
一切都很好 生意在不断扩大
那么现在的利润是多少呢 So how profitable is it now?
我们还是别谈这个了 这是商业机密
但对我们来说足够了
但你现在雇的人更少 而且这些利润 But you employ fewer people and the profits now
都进了农场主的口袋 just go to a few owners of the farm,
而并不惠及农场里的工人 not to everybody who works on the farm.
贾斯汀 我们没时间讨论这个了
我们还是说说生产吧
我不想谈过去发生的事情
显然利润是很大的 Profits are clearly good.
但我不由得想到 But I can't help thinking
在农场主们赚钱的同时 that while the owners are doing well,
这样的转变对普通工人并不利 the changes haven't been so great for ordinary workers.
我只是觉得 It just seems, you know,
对于俄国乡村的人们来说 for the people in the Russian countryside,
无论谁在掌权 whoever's in power,
沙皇 共产党亦或是现在的资本主义 if it's the tsars, the Communists and now capitalism,
那些弱小的农民 那些俄国的小人物们 the little farmers, the little guy in Russia,
依然饱受压榨 gets screwed.
第二天 Day two,
贾斯汀和我在两条路上愈发如鱼得水 and Justin and I are getting well into our two road trips.
神呐 他在内侧超车 Jesus, he's undertaking.
你看到了没 Did you see that?
天哪 Gosh!
你得保持冷静 You've got to keep your wits about you.
继续深入现代的俄罗斯 Continuing my journey into new Russia,
我正从塔甘罗格向北开往 I'm heading 470 miles north
塔甘罗格
距其766千米的古布金 from Taganrog towards Gubkin.
古布金
一个工业重镇 An industrial town that sits on one of the most
坐落在全球纯度最高的铁矿之一之上 concentrated iron ore reserves in the world.
我好像正好碰上了 And I appear to have arrived
什么庆祝活动 in the midst of some sort of celebration.
看上去他们正在街上狂欢 There seems to be some sort of street party going on.
现在才早上九点 It's only nine o'clock in the morning
而他们已经出门摇旗呐喊了 and they're already out waving flags.
原来 这一天是古布金市的建城日 It turns out that this is Gubkin's day of the town...
不好意思 先生 Sorry, sir.
是它的74岁生日 ..And its 74th birthday.
对俄国城市来说 这样的日子里 For Russian towns, days like these are chances for everyone
人们可以出门上街 到处游行 to turn out and march around...
缔结连理 Get married...
亦或是直接开怀畅饮 Or simply just drink a lot.
这是什么 Oh, what is that?
给了我一杯伏特加 Giving me vodka.
现在喝这个对我来说太早了吧 It's too early for me.
[俄语]
月光酒Moonshine. Moonshine.
闻上去和脱漆剂一样 Phoar! Paint stripper.
现在是早上十一点 大家都在豪饮 It is 11 o'clock in the morning and everybody's boozing.
古布金的本土公司也出现在这里 Gubkin's local businesses are also here.
其中最重要的是 Most important of all,
本地矿山公司的金属投资集团 the local mine, Metalloinvest,
这是本地经济的命脉所在 which the whole town has come to rely on.
所有的人 所有这些蓝白红的气球 All these people, all these blue and white and red balloons,
他们为了金属投资集团而游行 they're marching for the company, for Metalloinvest.
我正试着想象英国人会不会做这样的事 I'm trying to imagine if anyone would do that back home.
既然我都来到这里了 Since I was in town,
我觉得不去参观一下实在是失礼 I thought it would be rude not to pay them a visit,
尤其是这里的铁矿藏丰富到 especially as the deposit of iron ore here is so colossal
甚至扭曲了地球的磁场 that it even distorts the Earth's magnetic field.
真是难以置信 Unbelievable.
我从没看过像这样的矿藏 I've never seen anything like it.
这就是金属投资集团的铁矿 This is Metalloinvest's mine.
矿坑宽逾五千米 More than three miles wide,
并储藏着世界上最丰富的铁矿 it has more iron ore reserves than anywhere else on the planet.
那是我这辈子看过的最大的车轮 That, just the biggest wheel I've ever seen in my life.
从上面俯瞰 它们看上去就一点点大 From up the top, they seem tiny,
就像是玩具卡车一样 they're just little Tonka trucks.
俄罗斯主要出口自然资源 Natural resources dominate Russian exports.
这里有巨大的矿藏 Vast mineral deposits.
全世界最大的天然气储量 The biggest reserve of natural gas on Earth.
俄国还是全球第二大煤炭出口国 The second largest of coal
和第一大石油出口国 and the top exporter of oil in the entire world.
这样的每一铲 Every single one of those scoops
都重达二十吨 weighs 20 tonnes.
这是真正的工业用重型机械 This is proper industrial heavy-duty machinery.
说到钢铁 In terms of steel,
全俄罗斯五分之一的 铁矿来源于此 a fifth of all Russia's iron ore comes from right here.
快点 你得和我一起 Come on, you've got to get in with me.
我完全不知道我在干什么 I don't know what I'm doing.
好 哪个是油门 Right, which is the accelerator?
别踩那个
别碰那个吗 好的我不碰 No, don't touch that? Don't touch that, OK.
这是油门 那是刹车 That's the accelerator, that's the brake.
[俄语]
好极了 我正开一辆180吨重的卡车 This is great. I'm driving a 180-tonne truck
而且他正在用俄语教我 and I'm getting lessons by someone in Russian.
我想说的就是 别挡道 Get out of the way, is all I'm saying.
-准备好了吗 -好了 - Are you ready? - OK.
我们出发啦 Here we go.
看看这家伙的块头 Look at the size of this thing!
我的天 我的后视镜上哪去了 Oh, my lord, where's my wing mirror?
走 走 走 Go, go, go, go.
我在往前走呢 I'm going, I'm going.
要转弯吗 Turn it?
莱纳德 你得告诉我该怎么做 Leonard, you have to tell me what to do, mate.
好 Ok.
帅呆了 我正开着一辆翻斗车 Yahoo! I'm driving a flipping truck.
天哪 这就和你想象的一样好玩 Oh, my God, this is as much fun as you think it is.
如今 俄罗斯的经济 Today, Russia is heavily reliant on
大部分依靠出口自然资源 the export of its natural resources.
铁矿石最后会变成什么样呢 就像这样 And how does it end up? Like this.
铁矿坯 这含有约90%的铁 Iron briquettes. This is about 90% iron
它会被运往世界各地 and this is how it gets shipped all around the world
最终变成桥梁 汽车 and it ends up as bridges, cars,
高速公路 烧水壶 冰箱冷冻室 bits of motorways, kettles, fridge freezers.
事实上 你家里肯定有几样东西的来源于此 In fact, there's almost definitely something in your house that started life here.
问题是 The problem is,
这些东西很可能并不是俄罗斯制造的 they probably weren't actually made in Russia.
从俄罗斯向美国输送的90%的出口产品是 90% of Russian exports to the United States
矿产或其他原材料 are minerals or other raw materials,
而且中国也是个迅速发展的市场 and China is a fast-growing market.
在我看来 这里充满机遇 It seems to me there's a great opportunity here.
如果这些出口原料中的一点点能被精炼 If even a tiny fraction of those exports were refined
并在俄罗斯被制成产品 and manufactured into products here in Russia,
他们就能拥有让全世界眼红的经济了 they'd have an economy that could be the envy of the world.
与此同时我继续深入古老的俄罗斯 Meanwhile I'm continuing my journey into old Russia.
从斯塔夫罗波尔向前近600公里 350 miles from Stavropol,
斯塔夫罗波尔
索契
我来到了波澜壮阔的伏尔加河 I've reached the vast Volga River.
伏尔加河
长度超过3200千米 Over 2,000 miles long,
它通向大城市伏尔加格勒 it leads to the great city of Volgograd.
伏尔加格勒
在某些地方 In places,
伏尔加河看起来同大海一样有力 the River Volga seems as powerful as the sea,
人们认为它搅动着 and it's known to stir the hearts
所有远见卓识的俄罗斯人的心脏 of all true-thinking Russians.
看 "Agronomi Volga" Look at that, the Agronomi Volga,
奔腾的伏尔加河 the mighty Volga River,
俄罗斯的母亲河 the mother river of Russia.
这是欧洲最大的河 不仅仅长度上是 It's the largest river in Europe, not just in length,
而且水量上也是 but also in terms of the sheer volume of water it carries,
它在俄罗斯文化中的地位也很重要 and it's got a powerful place in Russian culture,
是这个国家的主动脉 a crucial artery of the nation.
伏尔加格勒 The city of Volgograd
代表了俄罗斯的核心民族形象 stands at the heart of Russia's national identity
以及钢铁般的性格 and steely character.
它曾经叫作斯大林格勒 Formerly known as Stalingrad,
这是人类史上 this was the site of the bloodiest battle
发生过最为血腥的战斗的地点 in human history.
在一个可以俯瞰全城的山上 On a hill overlooking the city,
有一座纪念碑用来纪念 a monument commemorates the victory
苏联红军于1943年 of the Soviet Red Army
战胜了纳粹的战役 over Nazi forces in 1943.
看那里 那是世界上最大的雕塑之一 Look at that. One of the biggest statues in the world, that is.
名为"祖国母亲的召唤" It's called The Motherland Calls
召唤着俄罗斯人冲上战场 and is a call to battle for the people of Russia.
它仿佛在说 What it seems to be saying is,
"别跟俄罗斯捣乱" "You don't mess with Russia."
在这里希特勒军队的前进 This is where the advance of Hitler's army
遭到了阻止 was bought to a halt.
尽管困难重重 这座城奋力抵抗纳粹 Against all the odds, the city stood firm against the Nazis.
在英国 我们总喜欢纪念自己的战绩 In Britain we tend to remember our own battles,
但却是斯大林格勒的这一场胜利 but the Russian victory here at Stalingrad
真正扭转了二战的局势 turned the tide of the Second World War.
德国的败退从这里开始 The German retreat began here.
斯大林命令军队 Stalin ordered that his troops
在纳粹进攻下捍卫这座城市 defend the city against the Nazi advance
直到最后一滴鲜血流尽 to the last drop of blood.
他下令 要么胜利 要么灭亡 Victory or death, he demanded.
苏联军队服从了他的指挥 And the Soviet Army followed his orders.
死伤人数难以想象 The human cost was unimaginable.
一百五十万人死在这里 One and a half million people died here.
-阿纳托利 -我是阿纳托利 - Anatoly? - Anatoly.
你好 Zdravstvujte.
您是 弗拉基米尔 And, Vladimir?
弗拉基米尔 是的 Vladimir. Yeah.
非常感谢你的关注和铭记
阿纳托利·科兹洛夫和弗拉基米尔·特洛夫 Anatoly Kozlov and Vladimir Torov
都参加过斯大林格勒的那场战役 both fought in the battle of Stalingrad.
那场战争的残酷是无可比拟的
非常恐惧 到处都是烧焦的尸体
孩子和大人放声哭泣
在那样的情况下打仗一定很恐惧吧 But it must have been terrifying fighting under those conditions.
是的 但我们必须战斗
我们接到命令说 "不许后退"
曾为红军效力 Having fought for the Red Army
又经历了整个冷战 and lived through the Cold War,
我想知道共产主义统治下的生活 I wondered how life under communism
和当今俄罗斯人的生活对比有什么不同 compared with the Russia of today.
现在不会有人告密了
没人被逮捕
从前会有人在晚上抓人
有人被逮捕 扔进监狱 或是丢到集中营
你只是道听途说
看起来阿纳托利和弗拉基米尔 It seems Anatoly and Vladimir
所描述的苏联时期生活 have a slight difference of opinion
有些细微的出入 when it comes to life under the old Soviet regime.
没有人曾在夜间被逮捕
至少
不会无理由地被逮捕
我从未听说过任何告密者
一个也没有 从来没有
现在人们可以自由生活了
每个人都可以各抒己见
就连我俩的观点都是不一样的
他是共产党人 我是民主党人
不仅红军老兵 It isn't only Red Army veterans
在俄罗斯共产主义历史上观点不同 that differ in their views on Russia's Communist past.
如今 以城市光辉历史为傲的新一代 Today a new generation, proud of the city's history,
正在积极活动 is campaigning to change the city's name
试图将城市名改回斯大林格勒 back to Stalingrad.
我们想要将城市名改回斯大林格勒
那应该不错
很多人为了这座城市牺牲
现在却不用那个名字太可惜了
你觉得怎么样
我不感兴趣
-斯大林格勒 -不 - Stalingrad? - No.
不 伏尔加格勒 No. Volgograd.
我很惊讶 即使斯大林声名狼藉 I was surprised how many people supported their cause,
也有那么多人支持他们的活动 despite Stalin's notorious reputation.
在西方国家 斯大林的名声很差 In the West, Stalin has a terrible reputation.
难道你真的希望一个城市 I mean, do you really want a city that bears the name
用滥杀无辜的暴君命名吗 of a murderous tyrant?
不会 我觉得将斯大林看作暴君
主要来源于战后出现的一些谬谈
那确实是一段复杂的历史
很多人深受其害
但在斯大林时代之后
俄罗斯失去了很多优势
是在斯大林的统治下
我国才变成了超级大国
有意思 So this is interesting.
很明显他没有提到 He's not mentioning, obviously,
大清洗或农业集体化过程中 the purges or the millions of people
大清洗: 1930年代苏联爆发的一场政治镇压和迫害运动
丧生了数百万人 who died during the collectivisation of agriculture.
他认为应该纪念 What he's saying should be celebrated is
斯大林在二战中对胜利所作的贡献 Stalin's help winning the Second World War.
他讲到在那个时期的经济增长 He talks about the growth of the economy in that period.
他对于那个时期有着与我们全然不同的看法 So a very different picture of the world that he's got.
很有趣 安东 非常感谢 Fascinating. Anton, thank you very much.
七十年前 红军不惜一切 70 years ago, the Red Army gave everything
阻止德国进入俄罗斯 to keep Germany out of Russia.
但今天 有些地方 But today there are places
用减税政策欢迎德国进驻 where Germans have been invited in with tax breaks.
古布金
从古布金开始我继续前往卡卢加 From Gubkin I've continued my journey to Kaluga.
卡卢加
曾经是俄罗斯最贫穷的地区之一的核心 Once the heart of one of Russia's poorest regions,
现在完全大变样 it's now been utterly transformed.
全都要归功于外国汽车制造商 And all because foreign car manufacturers have been
在俄罗斯设立的基地 setting up Russian bases here.
最先来到卡卢加的是大众汽车 The very first to come to Kaluga was Volkswagen.
大众汽车
这些车全都是全新的大众汽车 All of these cars are brand-new Volkswagens
刚刚从生产线上下线准备销往全国 fresh off the production line ready to be sold to Russians.
这个工厂非常巨大 This plant is enormous.
在卡卢加镇雇佣了6000人 It employs 6,000 people here in the town of Kaluga
完全改变了这个城市 and it's really changed this city.
在2005年 当地政府 It was in 2005 that the local government here
有远见地邀请外国汽车制造商进驻 had the foresight to invite in foreign car producers,
并且给予他们非常优惠的减税政策 Volkswagen being the first,
大众汽车是第一批 and gave them quite generous tax breaks.
相应的 大众汽车带来了西方技术 In return, Volkswagen brought in Western technology
为当地提供了约6000个工作岗位 and provided employment to around 6,000 local workers.
德国的入侵并未止步于 And the German invasion hasn't stopped at the gates
102酒吧
大众汽车厂区之内 of the Volkswagen factory.
在过去的六年里 酒吧主人基里尔·欧库尼 In the last six years, bar owner Kirill Okunev
见证了酒吧翻天覆地的变化 has seen his bar change beyond all recognition.
自从大众汽车来了以后 Since Volkswagen came in,
众多工厂和车间在这里落户 there are so many plants and factories
吸引人们来到这里 building around who attract people.
很多外国人来到我们的城市 A lot of foreigners come to our city
许多变化也在发生 and a lot of things going on.
一项产业带动其它产业 不止我的酒吧 It's not just my bar, you know, business makes business,
其它的商业活动也如火如荼 so there is a lot of activity going on.
自从大众汽车来到卡卢加 Since Volkswagen came to Kaluga,
其它的汽车制造商如法国标致 other car manufacturers like Peugeot
也将目标瞄准了这里 have joined them.
这些商业影响 All part of the commercial forces
让俄罗斯与过去的共产主义社会渐行渐远 that are wrenching Russia away from its Communist past.
我和一群德国人开怀畅饮 I shared a drink with some Germans
他们在企业入驻初期就来到了这里 who'd been here pretty much from the start.
2008年你们来到这里时 这里什么样 So when you came here in 2008, how was it?
和现在一样吗 Was it like it is now?
不 简直是天壤之别 Oh, no. That's far away from this.
俄罗斯变化很大 The Russian very changed.
六年前这里还处于苏联时代 Six years ago it was Soviet time.
苏联时代 Soviet time.
但是现在已经迈入了全新的时代 And I think now it's a new time,
新的文化正在萌芽 the beginning of a new culture.
新文化 New culture?
德国人正在改变俄罗斯吗 Are the Germans changing Russia?
我认为不是这样的 I don't see it like that.
俄罗斯人自己改变了自己 The Russians changed by their own.
在短时间内 积少成多 In a small time, way by way or step by step.
现在 不仅汽车工业在这里安家 Now it's not only the car industry setting up here.
韩国三星和日本三菱也来到了这里 Korean Samsung and Japanese Mitsubishi have moved in too,
使卡卢加成为了万众瞩目的经济中心 making Kaluga an economic hotspot.
这一切都始于一家德国企业的入驻 All starting with one German corporate invasion.
当地人对于德国公司入驻并雇佣他们 How do the locals feel about all these German companies
有什么看法 being here employing them?
我们很爱它们 We love them.
我是说 I mean, hey.
-你喜欢德国人 -是的 我的意思是 - You love the Germans? - I love Germans, I mean, er...
德国人来这里投资 使俄罗斯发展 Why should we have a problem with Germans who come here
我们还能有什么意见呢 and invest in my country and they make my country grow?
没什么可抱怨的 I mean, why should they have complaints?
卡卢加的经济奇迹 Economic success here in Kaluga
使第二次世界大战 has helped push the Second World War
永远地成为了历史 firmly back into history.
今天的卡卢加对未来怀着无限憧憬 Now this city is very much looking towards its future.
把车修好 Fix the car!
与此同时 远在东方的我 Meanwhile, far to the east,
自娱自乐了起来 I was having a night out of my own.
我的乌阿斯汽车又一次抛锚了 My Communist UAZ had broken down again,
我们被困在了伏尔加格勒附近的 and we were stuck outside
一间关了门的停车场外面 a closed garage near Volgograd.
但我们绝对不会 But we were determined
让任何小挫折破坏了我们的兴致 not to let any of that dampen our spirits.
*我整夜不眠 等待好运降临* *I'm up all night to get lucky.*
伏尔加格勒火车站
早上好 我还在伏尔加格勒 Morning, and I was still in Volgograd.
我的车拿去修了 所以我决定乘火车 With my car needing repairs, I decided to take the train.
我的天 还有几分钟就要开了 Jeez, just minutes to go.
七号和八号车厢 Seven and eight, apparently.
天啊 太棒了 Oh, wow, this is fantastic.
简直是沙皇的生活 太奢华了 God, like a tsar. This is magnificent.
我的计划是乘火车 The plan was for this train
向北行驶644公里 to carry me 400 miles north,
伏尔加格勒
离开伏尔加格勒 out of Volgograd
前往萨马拉市 and on to the city of Samara
萨马拉
在那里和我的车会合 where I'd meet up with my car again,
然后驾车去陶里亚蒂 before driving on to Tolyatti,
陶里亚蒂
那里是俄罗斯汽车工业的心脏 the heart of the Russian car industry.
-车修好了吗 -修好了 - Hey. Is it fixed then? - Yeah.
看上去不错 你还把车洗了 Looking good. It looks good. You've washed it.
第二天 太阳第一次露出脸来 Next day, and for once the sun was peeking out.
车篷 对啊 我们把车篷敞开吧 Cabriolet. Yeah, let's get the cabriolet thing going.
我们决定利用下共产党人汽车 So we chose to take advantage of my Communist car's
时髦的敞蓬设计 stylish convertible option.
*我再次上路* *But I'm on the road again*
*再次上路* *I'm on the road again*
*厌倦了哭泣 我再次...* *Well, I'm so tired of crying, but I'm on...*
*再次上路 我再次上路* *On the road again. I'm on the road again.*
现在开始下雨了 Now it's started to rain.
敞篷车就这点不好 不是吗 That's the problem with the Cabriolet, isn't it?
刚到陶里亚蒂 我的炫酷敞篷车之旅 Unfortunately my cool cruising was brought to a halt
就由于俄罗斯的雨天 by the Russian weather,
不幸地画上了句号 just as I arrived in Tolyatti.
*我们再次上路* *We're on the road again.*
陶里亚蒂是 Tolyatti is the birthplace
一种俄罗斯小型车的诞生地 of a little Russian car
英国人将其当成笑柄 that in Britain is the butt of jokes.
但在这里 它却代表着 Out here, though, it is the object of affection
爱国主义和近乎执迷的忠诚 and almost obsessive loyalty.
拉达 拉达 还是拉达 Lada, Lada, Lada.
那里有一辆拉达 那里还有一辆 There's a Lada up there, and a Lada there.
拉达汽车随处可见 There are just Ladas everywhere.
这里是俄罗斯汽车工业的中心 This place is the centre of the Russian car industry.
这里是陶里亚蒂市 It's a city called Tolyatti
人们称之为俄罗斯的底特律 and they call it the Russian Detroit,
底特律: 美国汽车工业城市
这里是著名的拉达汽车的故乡 and it is the home of the famous Lada,
放眼望去 街上到处都是拉达车 and everywhere you look there are Ladas on the street.
又是一辆 Lada.
有钱的俄罗斯人可能更渴望时髦的西方汽车 Rich Russians might desire fancy Western cars,
但本土制造的拉达汽车 but the home-grown Lada
仍占据着这里大部分的市场份额 still boasts a dominant market share here,
销量超过其它品牌汽车的两倍 selling more than twice as many cars as any other brand.
这里实际上是世界上最大的工厂之一 This is actually one of the biggest factories in the world
也是整个东欧地区最大的汽车厂 and the biggest car plant in all of eastern Europe.
这里已经生产了2700万辆汽车 This place has made 27 million cars.
上世纪六十年代 拉达车面世 Lada was set up in the '60s
目的是成为共产主义世界 to make an affordable people's car
群众负担得起的汽车 for the Communist world.
可以说是苏联的大众汽车 The Volkswagen of the Soviet Union.
直到今天它仍在茁壮成长 Today it is still going strong.
这些汽车从生产线下来之后 When the cars come off the production line
马上就进行试驾 they immediately test drive them
他们说我可以跟着一起去 and they've told me that I can ride along.
走吧 Here we go.
拉达汽车是俄罗斯少数几家 Lada is one of the few major factories in Russia
挺过了苏联解体 that managed to survive the collapse of the Soviet Union
和2008年经济危机的大型企业之一 and the financial crisis of 2008.
好了 There we go.
这是第两千七百万零几辆 The 27 millionth and something Lada
从生产线上下来的拉达车 rolls off the production line.
就这么开走了 There he goes.
但是也有几十年的困难时期 It has been a tough couple of decades, though.
在最萧条的时期 During the bleakest times
拉达公司没有钱支付部分工人的薪水 Lada couldn't afford to pay some salaries,
但是大部分的员工就算没钱也继续工作 but most of its employees continued to work for nothing.
你觉得为什么员工们对拉达如此忠诚 Why do you think people were so loyal to Lada?
他们为什么如此忠诚
因为他们对这里难以割舍
一些人生下来就在这里
这里就好像他们的家一样
是什么让你对公司如此忠诚 So what made you stick by the company?
我是一个爱国主义者
爱国主义 Patriotism?
苏联时期就是
这里的每一个人 Everyone I met
体现出的对本公司的忠诚 showed a loyalty that rival car manufacturers
是其他汽车公司梦寐以求的 around the world would give their eye teeth for.
还不光是汽车工人 And it's not only the factory workers.
天啊 快看那里 Oh, my word. Look at this.
一些本国的发烧友把对拉达汽车的爱 Some local enthusiasts have taken their love of Lada
升华到一个崭新的境界 to whole new heights.
伙计们 我爱死你们的车了 Guys, I love your cars,
比这鬼天气强多了 but I don't like the weather.
[俄语]
这些车都是拉达吗 So all of these cars are Ladas, yeah?
这些都是经过深度改装的拉达汽车 These were some seriously pimped up people's cars.
太了不起了 That is fantastic.
就好像是拉达的兰博基尼款 It's like a kind of Lamborghini Lada.
这标志了在后共产主义时期的俄国 A sign that local loyalties
对本国品牌的忠诚和 are now being matched by individuality
对追求个性以及创意的完美契合 and creative expression in post-Communist Russia.
看看这个野小子 太有个性了 Look at this bad boy. It's amazing.
魔兽版的拉达 Monster Lada.
我认为俄国的汽车文化 I suppose it shows the car culture here in Russia
和世界其他各地都差不多 is similar to elsewhere in the word.
总有一些痴迷者不惜一切 You've got nutters who will do almost anything
要让自己的车鹤立鸡群 to make their car stand out.
但其他国家的改装车都不如这辆车疯狂 And it doesn't get much crazier than this beast.
斗式座椅 Bucket seats!
这应该是辆赛车款的拉达 This is proper boy-racer's Lada.?
听着像开枪一样 It's like a gun going off.
好像有人拿着枪扫射 It's like somebody firing a gun.
太棒了 It's fantastic.
他说他的拉达能飚到每小时320公里 He claims his Lada can do more than 200mph.
他迫不及待地要展示自己的甩尾技术 And he was keen to demonstrate his doughnuting prowess.
上帝啊 马克斯 Jesus, Max!
老天 Oh, my God.
-这真是拉达 -是的 拉达 - Lada, eh? - Lada.
谁能相信拉达能跑这么快 Who would've known that a Lada could do that?
一晃十天 Ten days
我的俄国现代之旅过了将近一半 and nearly halfway through my trip into new Russia.
开着我的奢华装甲车继续北上 My oligarch tank continued to glide north.
索契
在距离索契1900公里的地方 1,200 miles from Sochi,
塔甘罗格
我总算进入了 and at last I was entering the outskirts
古布金
首都的近郊 of the nation's capital.
卡拉齐夫
莫斯科
路上颠簸了十天 我终于抵达 After ten days on the road, I've finally arrived
俄罗斯的首府莫斯科 in the Russian capital of Moscow.
路面开始宽敞 The roads have opened up.
我们沿着一条五车道 We've got five-lane avenues
直奔莫斯科市中心 cutting through the centre of Moscow.
道两旁全是由混凝土搭建的苏联式建筑 Big concrete Soviet blocks of buildings on either side.
在苏联时期 During the Soviet era,
红场凭借五一节时宏大的阅兵式而闻名于世 Red Square was famous for its May Day parades,
苏联以此毫不吝啬地展示其军事力量 with lavish displays of military hardware.
然而今天 Today, though,
即使是红场也摒弃了其共产主义的过去 even Red Square has turned on its Communist past
而资本主义的气息已经无处不在 and fully embraced capitalism.
国家百货商场曾经因空荡荡的货架成为笑谈 Once the GUM Department Store was famous for having empty shelves.
如今它被琳琅满目的奢侈品牌所包裹 Today it's packed with every luxury brand imaginable.
象征了越来越多的富裕中产阶级 Signs of an expanding wealthy middle class.
莫斯科也是全球百万富翁 And Moscow also has more millionaires
人数最多的首都 than any other capital city.
这就是当代俄罗斯的特征 This is what modern Russia's all about.
奢华 富有 堕落 Its luxury, its opulence, its decadence.
因为这里聚集了一群 Because there's an elite group of people here
生财有道的精英群体 who've made a heck of a lot of money
而这些俄罗斯的富人 非常喜欢炫富 and if you've got it in Russia, you flaunt it.
艾丽莎·科莱洛娃是西伯利亚出身的模特 Alisa Krylova is a former model from Siberia
来到莫斯科后赢得了几次选美比赛 who came to Moscow and won a few beauty contests
然后进入了俄罗斯上流社会 before entering Russian high society.
我跟着她一起见识了她的每日血拼之旅 I joined up with her for an every day shopping trip.
[俄语]
我们来到一家皮草商店 So we're in a house of fur.
客户们也有自己的烦恼 Your client has the same worry,
达官贵人 rich people from government,
社会名流 from celebrities...so.
这样的人在俄罗斯有很多 And there's lots of people in Russia.
-很多吗 -是的 - A lot of. A lot. - Yeah.
太有趣了 我这辈子第一次体验这样的血拼 This is great fun. I'm having the time of my life.
但这其实是少数精英人群才有的特权 But this is the privilege of an elite few.
这种奢靡的生活和顶级的定制时装 This is the sort of life and the sort of haute couture
光是在俄罗斯富甲一方是不够的 that the wealthiest people, not just in Russia,
只有在全世界名列前茅才负担得起 but on the entire planet can afford.
如今巨富们的生活 Today the extreme rich
仍然是普罗大众可望而不可及的 still seem to exist in a world far removed from real life.
在这里 一旦你询问价格 A world in which, if you have to ask the price,
那多半说明你买不起 you probably can't afford it.
穿着感觉十分柔软 It feels very soft so I'm going to try it on.
-五百万卢布 -五百万卢布 - Five million roubles. - Five million roubles?
折合二百欧元...不对 It's about...200 euros or...
是十万英镑[约一百万人民币] It's about 100,000 pounds.
-十万英镑 -是的 - 100,000 pounds? - Yes.
很美吧 Nice, yes?
我的天 Oh, my God.
-走吧 走吧 -天啊 我们快走 - Leave, leave. - Oh, my God, let's go!
-我们直接穿走吧 -再见 - Let's just keep walking. - Bye.
别拍了 Stop shooting.
其实不光只有巨富愿意为了珠光宝气 It's not just the mega rich that like to splash out
而一掷千金 on a bit of bling.
消费资本主义在这里还是新鲜事物 Consumer capitalism is a relatively new thing here.
所以如果人们渴望炫耀他们的财富 So maybe it's not surprising that people
也并不是令人惊讶的事 are so keen to show off everything they've got.
由此向东深入 来到了俄罗斯地的老区 Far to the east, exploring old Russia,
我正驾车穿越 I was driving through
一个与莫斯科和俄国富有的精英们 a very different world
截然不同的世界 from that of Moscow and Russia's rich elite.
陶里亚蒂
从陶里亚蒂出发直奔位于 From Tolyatti I was heading towards the city of Perm
彼尔姆
乌拉尔山脉山脚下的彼尔姆市 in the foothills of the Ural Mountains
一个在苏联时期 and a place that struck terror
令许多思想自由的俄国人 into the hearts of many free-thinking Russians
不寒而栗的地方 during the Communist era.
越来越冷了 It's getting very cold now
我要去个让人毛骨悚然的地方 and I'm coming to a very sinister place.
到了 Oh, here it is.
彼尔姆36号是众多苏联劳改营之一 Perm-36 Gulag was one of a network of labour camps
位于这个国家最远的边疆 located in the most remote and extreme regions of the country.
彼尔姆36号劳改营纪念馆
这座劳改营直到1989年才关闭 This prison camp remained open until 1989.
现在它被当做博物馆保留下来 Now it is kept as a museum.
当年许多批评苏联政权的异议分子 Many dissidents, human rights activists and journalists
人权活动家和新闻记者 who criticised the Soviet state
都被送到这里进行改造 were sent here for correction.
疲惫 饥饿 胡子拉碴 Tired, hungry and a bit unshaven,
我觉得自己好像就是这里的囚犯 I felt a bit like an inmate myself.
这里曾是个残酷的世界 It was a really brutal regime here.
这里一张床有四张床板 There'd be four blokes on a bed like this.
每张床的规格是两平米 The regulation was two square metres each.
冬天 气温低至零下四十度 And in winter, and it gets down to about minus 40 here,
这里没窗户 there were no windows,
他们用木板把窗户钉死了 they'd just board the windows up with planks of wood.
日复一日 从不停歇 Every day, without fail,
劳动从清晨六点开始 started at 6am.
伙食简朴而单调 只有粥 The diet was simple and monotonous, just porridge,
大列巴 一种俄国面包 Kleb, russian bread,
寡淡的汤 走运的话还能有杯茶 maybe some thin soup and if you're lucky, a cup of tea.
早餐后 After breakfast
囚犯们要步行一个半小时到森林 the prisoners faced a one-and-a-half-hour march to the forest,
然后是九小时的伐木苦工 then nine hours of hard labour logging,
再跋涉回营 before the long march home.
维克多·派斯多夫于1978年 Viktor Pestov was sent to
被送入彼尔姆36号劳改营 Perm-36 Gulag in 1978.
他被判处五年劳动改造 He was sentenced to five years forced labour.
你在这时有人死在营地吗 Did people die while you were here at the camp?
有的 有的
有个上了年纪的囚犯
他受不了了 于是往禁区跑
禁区有瞭望塔和持冲锋枪的士兵
他跑到禁区就在我们眼前被击毙了
你为何被送进来 What did you do to be sent here?
我们1968年建立了一个叫自由俄国的反苏组织
四处分发传单
身在这里你有何感想 How do you feel walking in here?
你心里有何感觉 How does it make you feel in your heart
仅仅因为发了几张传单 about the five years of your life that you lost
就失去了五年的自由 for handing out a few leaflets?
每次来这我都有种感觉
一种怀念的感觉
在这我曾有很多朋友
一旦进入营地你便能畅所欲言
包括在外面说会招来牢狱之灾的话
反正已经被关进来了
进了这里 你是自由人
这真是奇特 维克多说 This is extraordinary because Viktor says, you know,
这里是当时苏联 it was one of the few places in the Soviet Union at the time
少数还有真正言论自由的地方 where there was genuine free expression because, you know,
因为你已身处集中营 you were already in a prison camp,
还能如何呢 how much worse could it get?
所以某种程度上 So in a sense, you know,
营地里反而有自由的气息 there was a sense that there was freedom within the camp,
真是有趣 which is really interesting.
劳改营制度反映了苏联领导 The Gulag system epitomised an instinct of Russia's leaders
压制任何反动言行的本能 to repress any challenge to their authoritarian rule.
弗拉基米尔·普京的统治 Vladimir Putin's presidency
常被称作管理民主 is often described as a managed democracy,
但俄罗斯社会依旧被置于严格管制下 but Russia still remains a strictly controlled society.
2012年 就在红场 In 2012, right here in Red Square,
一群女权主义艺术家 a group of feminist artists
发起了一场引起全球关注的抗议 staged a protest that drew global attention.
暴动小猫抗议国家强权压制 Pussy Riot was protesting about state suppression
并争取同性恋权利 and gay rights,
攻击矛头直指总统普京 directing their attack towards President Putin himself.
她们的歌微妙地取名为 Their song was rather delicately titled
普京尿裤子了 Putin's Pissed His Pants
这是一系列抗议活动的开端 and was the first of a number of protests
最终带来严重后果 which ultimately led to serious trouble.
全球目光 The world's eyes
都被俄罗斯人权问题吸引 were drawn to the issue of human rights in Russia
女子艺术团体 暴动小猫的三位成员 when three members of an all-female artist collective, Pussy Riot,
被捕入狱 were imprisoned
她们因和平抗议所遭到的判决 and given what seems to us like outrageous sentences
在我们看来粗暴离谱 for staging a peaceful protest,
我约到了其中一位成员 and I've managed to arrange a meeting with one of them
在这个咖啡厅见面 in this cafe.
-你好 卡佳 -你好 - Hi, Katya. - Hi.
很高兴见到你 谢谢你愿意与我见面 Lovely to see you. Thank you. Thank you for meeting me.
我想知道 I want you to tell me what is it
你们究竟反抗什么 that you're actually standing against.
我们反抗的是独裁政权
政府禁止人民对严重的社会问题发表看法
就是这场在莫斯科东正教大教堂的演出 It was this performance in Moscow's Orthodox Cathedral
使当局决定采取行动 that finally prompted the authorities to act.
俄罗斯社会宗教传统深厚 Russia is a deeply religious society
许多人觉得受到冒犯 and many people were offended.
演出只进行了30秒 我们很快被押走
三名乐队成员被捕 Three members of the band were arrested
并被判处"源于宗教仇恨的流氓行为罪" and convicted of hooliganism motivated by religious hatred.
经过上诉 卡佳的判决缓期执行 Katya's sentence was suspended on appeal.
你们的抗议将全球目光 Your protest drew the world's eyes to
吸引到俄罗斯人权问题上来 what's going on in terms of human rights in Russia.
但这改变了什么吗 But has any of it made any difference?
不可能在一日内改变世界
如果我袖手旁观生活会是怎样呢
在那样的情况下自由生活还不如入狱
旅行中 For the first time on my journey
我首次听到了异议 I'm hearing the voice of dissent
这是发自何人的声音啊 and what a voice to hear from, you know,
是全世界 one of the most famous
最著名的人权斗士之一发出的声音 human rights protestors on the planet today.
她的言语中 And the one thing that really
令我印象最深的是 has stuck in my mind from what she said
如果她们停止抗议 was that if they don't continue their protest,
整个国家便会不知不觉步入一座监狱 their country is sleepwalking into a jail.
我对此话的理解是 And from that, I take it she means that
这个国家不仅未朝民主方向前进 far from this country moving towards democracy,
更是反其道退回独裁 it's actually going back towards an autocracy
国家牢牢管控一切 where the state has a really tight grip on everything.
旅行了十一天 After 11 days on the road,
我想是时候和安妮塔叙叙旧了 I thought it was a good time to catch up with Anita.
-你好 安妮塔 -你好 贾斯汀 - Hi, Anita. - Hello, Justin.
-怎么样啊 -我很好啊 - How's it going? - I'm great.
正奢华地享受呢 I'm in the lap of luxury right now.
我面前摆着一杯气泡酒 I've got a glass of fizz in front of me,
和一块让人萌生罪恶感的诱人巧克力蛋糕 a slice of really, really dangerous chocolate cake.
我在一家非常国际化的奢靡商场里 Yeah. And I'm in one of the most decadent shopping arcades you'll find anywhere on the planet.
你那里呢 How about you?
天啊 听起来确实奢华 God, it sounds like the lap of luxury.
跟我所在的地方天差地别 I tell you what, it could not be more different from where I am.
我在一间劳改营的刑房里 I'm in a punishment cell in one of the Gulags, you know,
这里是从前苏联劳改营的遗址 the network of prison camps they used to have across Russia.
这里环境很恶劣啊 And it is a pretty nasty place, I tell you.
节目就是这样 贾斯汀 That's the way this show works, Justin.
一个人受苦 Someone's got to take the rough,
另一个享清福 someone's got to take the smooth, and it's, you know...
你好好享受吧 Well, you enjoy it, yeah.
我要去喝粥了 I've got some porridge waiting for me, yeah.
祝你好运 再见 Good luck. Do svidaniya.
和你聊天很愉快 再见 Good to speak to you. See you. Bye.
下一集 我将继续东行 Next time, I'll be heading even further east...
绵延数千公里的俄罗斯亚洲境内地域 Thousands and thousands of kilometres of Asian Russia.
与俄罗斯硬汉碰面 ..Meeting some tough Russians
玩玩他们的小玩具 and getting to play with their toys.
再看看大件儿的 Before getting up close to some even bigger ones.
他们今天把家伙都拿出来了 They've got all their toys out today.
而我将取道俄罗斯连接西方的大门 While I'll be heading to Russia's gateway to the West...
一 二 三 One, two, three.
开始了 桥升起来了 Here it goes. The bridge is going up.
再深入极寒的北方 And then heading into the freezing north...
走 走 走 走了 Mush, mush, mush! Here we go!
前往一个全新的经济前线 ..Towards a whole new economic frontier.
到了 塞奇 北极圈 There it is, Sergei! The Arctic Circle.