我们将踏上一段奇妙的旅程 We're going on an incredible journey.
驾车穿越世界上最广袤 Driving through the biggest
也最扑朔迷离的国家之一 and one of the most bewildering countries on Earth.
太危险了 This is so dangerous!
我们在高速公路中间抛锚了 We're in the middle of a motorway!
驾驶两辆截然不同的汽车 Taking two very different cars...
这是辆坦克 It's a tank!
苏维埃社会主义共和国联盟 CCCP.
共产党人制造 Built by Communists.
踏上两段截然不同的旅程 on two very different road trips.
朝哪开 这样要紧吗 Which way? Does it matter?
为期三周 长达数千公里的 Three weeks and thousands of miles
俄罗斯自驾之旅 on the roads of Russia.
看 就是那 Look! Now we're talking.
上集我们从2014年冬奥会的举办地索契出发 Last time we set off from Sochi, home to the 2014 Winter Olympics -
她是俄罗斯向世界展示自己的窗口 Russia's showcase to the world.
不 别过来 我会摔倒的 No! Seriously no, I'm going to fall! Oh, my God.
自出发以来 我已经驾车行驶1900公里 Since then, I've driven 1,200 miles
来到了莫斯科 to Moscow,
领略了一个欣欣向荣的俄罗斯 seeing a Russia that's very much on the move.
大众汽车
价格十万英镑左右 It's about 100,000 pounds.
柏林墙倒塌25年后 25 years since the fall of the Berlin Wall,
一个全新的俄罗斯正在成形 a whole new Russia is emerging.
而汽车则是它的核心 The car's right at the heart of it.
而我的旅行中 So far on my journey, though,
一路探访了一个更加传统的俄罗斯 I've been discovering a much older Russia.
拉达 拉达 还是拉达 Lada, Lada. Lada.
驾车深入一个充满光荣传统 Driving deep into a land of proud traditions
俄罗斯共产党
和共产主义历史的俄罗斯 and constant reminders of its Communist past.
这个曾经的军事强国 So can this former military super-power
能否成为新兴经济强国呢 ever become a new economic power?
如果答案是肯定的 And if it could,
那这对于俄罗斯乃至全球 what would that mean for Russia
又意味着什么呢 and the rest of the world?
驾
车
看
俄
国
原创翻译 双语字幕
■
本字幕由人人影视字幕组翻译 禁止用作任何商业盈利行为
翻译：喃喃 小花豆 jimmyflower Gabrielle 令狐伟
第十天 It's day ten
我的史诗之旅已经过去了一半 and I'm halfway through my epic journey,
翻译：木瓜一号 t1rry 树妖 Kerrychen0712
驾驶我的奢华装甲车 exploring new Russia
翻译：木瓜一号 t1rry 树妖 Kerrychen0712
探索一个全新的俄罗斯 in my oligarch tank.
校对：麦结 时间轴： 筒
莫斯科
校对：麦结 时间轴： 筒
我的计划是由莫斯科出发 My plan is to head northwest
莫斯科
北极圈
向西北驶向圣彼得堡 from Moscow to St Petersburg,
后期：蜡笔小新的眉毛 总监：麦结
圣彼得堡
再长途跋涉 越过北极圈 before a long drive beyond the Arctic Circle
后期：蜡笔小新的眉毛 总监：麦结
北极圈
来到一个新兴的经济前哨站 towards a brand-new economic frontier,
摩尔曼斯克
摩尔曼斯克 我的终点站 Murmansk - my ultimate destination.
但是首先 我得离开莫斯科 First, though, I've somehow got to get out of Moscow,
坐在我副驾上的塞奇给我指路 relying on my co-driver Sergei for directions.
朝哪开 这样要紧吗 Which way? Does it matter?
随便 Oh, any way.
我马上就要尝试一项全新的服务 I'm about to try a brand new service.
最近开通了一趟可运载汽车的专列 A car train that's recently opened
使前往圣彼得堡的驾驶员 to save drivers
免受644公里长途跋涉的煎熬 the 400-mile grind to St. Petersburg.
这车在前往圣彼得堡之前 The car is getting a good scrubbing
要好好清洗一番 before it goes to St Petersburg.
很显然 上火车前必须把车洗干净 Apparently, it can't get on the train unless it's had a wash.
今天 仅莫斯科就有超过四百万辆汽车 Today, there are more than 4 million vehicles in Moscow alone,
这个数字每年都在增长 a number that's growing every year.
这真实反映了俄罗斯新兴中产阶级的崛起 A real sign of the new middle-class Russia on the move.
让你们看看怎么把一辆四公吨重的装甲车 This is how to drive a four-tonne...
开进这么小的门洞里 ...tank into a very small hole.
一步一步来 You do it step by step
有几个俄罗斯人会引导你 and have a couple of Russian men guiding you in.
完美 干得好 干得好 Excellent! Job well done! Well done!
与此同时 在路上行驶了2900公里之后 Meanwhile, after nearly 1,800 miles on the road,
我继续深入俄罗斯的腹地 I'm rattling ever-deeper into the Russian heartland.
我正要离开彼尔姆市 奔向荒野 I'm leaving the city of Perm and heading into the wilderness,
彼尔姆市
穿越乌拉尔山脉的古老森林 进入亚洲 the ancient forests of the Ural mountains and Asia,
乌拉尔山脉
寻找那个古老又传统的俄罗斯 seeking out an old, traditional Russia
亚洲
它向东延伸 一望无际 that seems to stretch forever to the east.
我的旅程将会带我来到西伯利亚的边缘 My journey will take me into the fringes of Siberia
车里雅宾斯克
然后拜访车里雅宾斯克市 and on to the city of Chelyabinsk.
但是在经历了数次抛锚之后 But having already experienced several breakdowns
我想确保这辆37岁的乌阿斯汽车 in my 37-year-old Communist UAZ,
能够应付前方的漫漫长路 I want to be sure it's up to the trials ahead.
就是这里 我们要去乌阿斯医院 Aw, here we go. We're going to UAZ hospital.
在哪里呢 Now where's the place?
这里也有几辆乌阿斯汽车 There's some fellow UAZs here.
看上去它们似乎参加过战斗 Hey! They look like they've seen some action!
-你好呀 -你好 - Oh! Hey, how are you doing? - How are you?
很高兴见到你 我的乌阿斯汽车需要修理 Good to meet you. My UAZ needs treatment.
动力转向装置有些问题 We've got problems with the power steering.
发动机也有些毛病 急需修理 There have been problems with the generator. It needs help!
你能帮帮她吗 Can you help her?
当然了
棒极了 Excellent!
你这里的车都很漂亮嘛 So you have got some beautiful cars here.
修理厂主人阿列克谢从他十几岁 Garage owner Aleksei has been
得到第一辆乌阿斯时起 an obsessive collector and restorer
就成了痴迷的收藏家和维修工 ever since he got his first UAZ as a teenager.
趁着车拿去修的空当 And while mine was being fixed,
我非常想试一试他的爱车 I was keen to get a go in one of his favourites.
我能试试你的一辆乌阿斯车吗 So can I try out one of your UAZs?
当然可以
是吗 Yeah?
有地方让我开车吗 Have you got somewhere for me to drive?
我在外面专门铺了条渣土跑道
你可以在那里跑几圈
你有一条越野跑道 You've got an off-road track of your own?
不要把车开翻了就行
老苏联乌阿斯汽车仍然有力地证明了 The old Soviet UAZ remains a potent symbol
粗重的共产主义制造业 of rugged Communist engineering.
二战时德军军队的进攻 Joe Stalin first ordered production in World War II,
大有将苏联大部分工业据为己有的势头 when it looked like the advancing German army
斯大林因此首次下令大批生产乌阿斯汽车 would capture the bulk of Soviet industry.
我有一点紧张 因为阿列克谢说 I'm a bit nervous cos Aleksei said,
"这会让你受皮肉之苦的" "It will hurt."
我想我必须要开始加速了 I'm going to have to get some speed up, I think.
在乌阿斯汽车的帮助下 With help from the UAZ,
苏联红军成功抵挡住了德国人的进攻 the Red Army pushed the Germans back
而它在苏联历史上的地位就此被确立 and the Jeep lookalike's place in Soviet history was secured.
然而我是否能有和乌斯卡汽车一样的战斗血统 Whether I can match the UAZ's fighting pedigree, though,
还是有待验证的 is unclear.
我开不过去 我陷在这个泥潭里了 I can't do it! I'm stuck in the bloody mud!
松开点刹车 然后把加速踩到底
保持平衡 Just even.
不错 很好 停 停 停 Right, good. Stop. Stop! Stop!
我的天哪 Jesus Christ! Ah! Ah!
刚才是发生了什么 What happened?!
太棒了 我做到了 Yes, I did it!
虽然过程非常艰难 That was really hard, though.
我继续待在莫斯科 Still in Moscow,
而我闪闪发亮的凯佰赫 my shiny new Kombat
已经安全乘上了去圣彼得堡的汽车专列 is safely on board the car train for St Petersburg.
但在我的卧铺列车发车前这几个小时里 But with a few hours spare before my sleeper train leaves,
我想去一个狂热的车迷区看看 there's a petrolhead craze I want to check out.
我难以相信我亲眼所看到的 I can't quite believe this.
这里是莫斯科郊区的某个天桥下 We're under an overpass somewhere on the outskirts of Moscow.
这是个很宽的双线车道 It's a massive dual carriageway.
这里有着数以百计的汽车和车手 There's just hundreds and hundreds of cars, boy racers,
来参加赛车 turning up to race.
在很多方面 新俄罗斯 In many ways, new Russia
依然是一个受严格控制的社会 is still a very strictly controlled society.
但是年轻的车主们似乎并不怕和当局作对 But it seems that young car owners aren't frightened of kicking back against authority.
离赛道远点 离赛道远点 Get out the way. Get out the way.
每一周男人和一些女人 Every week, men, and a few women,
都会相约来到这里进行非法赛车 meet here with their cars for illegal drag races.
这在共产主义时期是 It's something that would have been unthinkable
想都不敢想的事情 during the Communist years,
但是如今很多年轻的莫斯科人有经济实力 but today many young Muscovites have money.
他们正在利用四个车轮 And they're using four wheels to push
将自己刚刚获得的自由和汽车推动至极限 their newly-gained freedom and their cars to the limits.
闻起来有一股橡胶轮胎的烧焦味 It smells of burning rubber.
很显然 警方很愿意睁一只眼闭一只眼 Apparently, the police are happy to turn a blind eye.
据说他们在我来之前就到了 I'm told they arrived just before I got here
看到一切井井有条就满意地离开了 and went away happy with the organisation.
非常有俄罗斯的风格 All very Russian.
这场比赛让人兴致盎然 This should be rather tasty,
[日产]GTR跑车和[保时捷]卡雷拉S之间的单挑 a GTR and a Carrera S.
GTR赢了 The GTR took it.
在看过了几场比赛之后 Having watched some races,
我也忍不住参与到了其中 I couldn't resist getting involved myself.
好的 好的 好的 我记住了 All right. All right. All right, I've got it!
要开始了 要开始了 Here we go. Here we go!
太爽啦 Woo-hoo!
但是没有多余时间闲逛了 But there was no more time to hang around.
我的火车马上要发车了 My train was about to leave,
我即将乘它离开莫斯科 ready to take me out of Moscow
进入下一段旅程 on the next leg of my journey.
我很喜欢乘火车旅行 I love a train journey.
看 我们有专门的卧铺 Look, we've got proper berths.
去圣彼得堡的慢车 The slow train to St Petersburg.
希望我的凯佰赫已经上路了 Hopefully, my Kombat will be on its way already.
这就是我的上铺啦 我很期待的 This is me, top bunk! Ah! I'm looking forward to this!
不过我觉得你是不能进来的 I don't think you're coming in, though.
太兴奋了 因为明天我将在圣彼得堡醒来 So excited, because tomorrow I wake up in St Petersburg,
一个我从小到大一直想要去的城市 a city I've wanted to visit my whole life.
我认为这是一个浪漫的城市 I think of it as a romantic city,
有着深厚的历史底蕴 full of history,
带着沙皇气息的城市 the city of the Tsars,
布尔什维克党就是在那里攻占了冬宫 the city where the Bolsheviks stormed the Winter Palace
由此拉开了共产主义运动的序幕 and Communism began.
养精蓄锐了一晚之后 After a restful night,
我和我的装甲四驱车 I've been reunited with my armoured four-by-four
在世界上最美丽的城市之一汇合了 in one of the world's most beautiful cities.
要说俄罗斯的西方化风貌 If ever there was an argument for Russia looking west,
这座城市是最好的例子 this is it.
圣彼得堡的城市规划很像一个欧洲城市 St Petersburg was designed to look like a European city.
这里的建筑简直美轮美奂 The buildings are incredible!
离波罗的海只有几公里的地方 Just a few miles from the Baltic Sea,
这里是俄罗斯通向西方国家的大门 this is Russia's gateway to the west,
负责俄罗斯西部进进出出的大量交易 carrying huge amounts of trade in and out of western Russia.
圣彼得堡曾经是欧洲沙俄的首都 St Petersburg was designed to be Russia's grand European capital.
城市中心是美丽的冬宫 At its heart, the beautiful Winter Palace
沙皇的宫殿 the home of the Tsars
也是俄国革命的爆发之地 and the birthplace of the Russian Revolution.
但是远离了宏伟建筑和旅游景点 But away from the grand buildings and the tourist spots,
这座现代都市也有着不为人知的一面 there's a hidden side to today's modern city.
圣彼得堡不但吸引来了遍及俄罗斯的工人 St Petersburg attracts workers from all over Russia,
同时还吸引了前苏联 but also economic migrants from s
最贫穷的几个独立国家的经济移民 ome of the poorest independent states of the former Soviet Union.
你好 法鲁克 很高兴认识你 Hello. Farrukh. Pleased to meet you.
-谢谢你来见我 -非常感谢 - Thank you for seeing me. - Thank you very much.
-所以我们往哪里走 -我们往这边走 - So which way are we going? - Let's go this way.
穿过 穿过铁链吗 好吧 Through the, through the chains? Yeah. Yes. OK.
我们刚从圣彼得堡的主干道拐进来 We're literally just off the main road in St Petersburg
就进入了一个完全不一样的世界 and we've entered a completely different world.
在这里居住和工作的大多数人都来自塔吉克斯坦 Many of the people living and working here are from Tajikistan
一个夹在中国和阿富汗之间贫穷的内陆国家 a poor, landlocked country wedged between China and Afghanistan.
离开家来到3220公里外的地方 More than 2,000 miles from home,
他们迫切需要一份工作来养活远在家乡的亲人 they come here desperate for work to support their distant families.
你为什么到这儿来 为什么住在这里 Why are you here? Why live here?
为了生存 因为这里有更好的生活条件 Ah. For living, because there are better conditions.
他需要养家糊口 所以才来到这里 He needs to feed his family, that why he's here.
你的家人在哪里 And where is your family?
在塔吉克斯坦 In Tajikistan.
你有什么家人 你有几个孩子 And who's in your family? How many children do you have?
四个孩子 Ah. There are four children.
和世界上很多地区的经济移民一样 Like economic migrants in many parts of the world,
工人的居住条件是非常恶劣的 living conditions for workers can be grim.
-小心点 -是 我很小心 - Be careful. - Yes, very careful.
这里真的 你可以看出这里的居住条件 It's really, well, you can see what it looks like,
非常长而又阴暗 很简单 it's quite long and dark, very basic.
还散发着一股强烈的臭味 It's got a really strong smell in here as well.
他们在睡觉 Yes. Oh, they're sleeping.
就是这儿了 很多男人都在这里睡觉 Oh, wow, here we go, there's lots of men sleeping in here.
我数了数 在这房间里睡了10个人 I counted ten men in this room
而就这家青旅里有二十多个房间 and there are more than 20 rooms in this one hostel alone.
很多移民在圣彼得堡打黑工 Many migrants work in St Petersburg illegally
其中许多人还面临着种族仇恨的威胁 and many also face racial resentment.
肯定有很多劳工是非法移民吧 There must be a lot of migrants living under the radar?
没错 Yeah.
显然不是每个人都有合法证件吧 法鲁克 Obviously, not everybody here, farrukh, has papers?
这里有许多非法劳工 There are many people who are illegal here.
这就是问题 This is the problem.
随着劳工数量的增多 And as the number of migrants rises,
由俄罗斯极右民族主义团体 so has the number of attacks
引发的袭击案件也屡见不鲜 by far-right Russian nationalist groups.
过去十年内 Hundreds of immigrants
已有数百位移民在俄罗斯被谋杀 have been murdered in Russia in the past decade
其中半数人来自中亚的共和国国家 and half of these have come from the Central Asian Republics
它们都曾是前苏联的一部分 previously part of the Soviet Union.
他们讨厌不同肤色 They don't like people with another skin,
不同瞳色或者不同发色的人 another eye or another hair.
他们觉得来自中亚的劳工 They think that people who come from Central Asia,
抢了他们的饭碗 they took their working place.
共产主义政权倒台已经过去了25年 25 years since the fall of Communism
但很显然现代俄罗斯 and it's clear modern Russia
仍在与前苏联的过往作斗争 is still grappling with its Soviet past.
经济移民和随之引起的社会紧张情绪 Economic migration and the social tensions it causes
提醒着我们 are reminders of
这个国家仍然处在转型期中 how this is a country that's still very much in transition.
我的乌阿斯已经修理好了 My UAZ has been fixed
现在我们一起向荒野进发 and together we're entering a wilderness
这片荒野似乎绵延数千里而不绝 that seems to stretch ahead for miles and miles.
我向更远的东方前进 I'm heading ever-further east
我感觉像是回到了过去 and it feels like I'm going back in time
索契
斯塔夫罗波尔
进入到一片古老土地 into an ancient landscape.
伏尔加格勒
乌拉尔山脉
置身于荒野之中 真的很难想象 Out here, it's hard to imagine
陶里亚蒂
索契和冬奥会的各种炫目浮华 that Sochi and all of its Olympic glitz
还仅仅是12天前的事 was only 12 days ago.
彼尔姆
我们现在到了乌拉尔山脉上 We're up in the...in the Urals, the Urals now.
这是一座伟大的山脉 A great spine of mountains
贯穿了俄罗斯的中心 that runs through the centre of Russia.
欧洲
这是我深入传统俄罗斯旅程中 For me, this is a very special moment on my journey
一个非常特殊的时刻 into old mother Russia.
欧洲
这里真是太陡了 Yeah, it's bloody steep!
乌拉尔山脉是一条至关重要的分界线 The Urals, the Urals, are a crucial dividing line.
看这里 这里刻着"欧洲" Look at this, this says Europe
然后看我的 and watch this...
人类的一小步 我们就到了这里 One small step for man and here we are,
亚洲
这边刻着"亚洲" this one says Asia,
因为在这一边 because over here is the Wild East -
绵延数千公里的东方荒野 thousands and thousands of kilometres
是俄罗斯的亚洲部分 of Asian Russia.
这里与莫斯科和圣彼得堡代表的新兴俄国 This feels a world away
几乎是两个世界 from the new Russia of Moscow or St Petersburg.
如果一个国家的乡村能定义这个国家 If countryside contains the identity of a nation,
那么这就是俄罗斯 then this is Russia -
广袤 强硬以及桀骜不驯 vast, tough and untamed.
天啊 前面是条河 Oh, my God, it's a river.
这一半的俄罗斯是硬汉的国度 This Russia is a country for strong men.
弗拉基米尔·普京总统 President Vladimir Putin
毫不掩饰他对户外运动的热爱 makes no secret of his love of the outdoors.
他很乐意被看做猎人普京 He's keen to be seen as Putin the hunter,
骑士普京或渔夫普京 the horseman, the fisherman.
稍等 我想我看到了一间狩猎屋 Oh, hold on, I think I see a hunting lodge.
普京的这一硬汉形象 It's an image designed
旨在塑造一个粗犷的男子气概的典范 to appeal to an ideal of rugged masculinity
并引起了许多俄罗斯人的共鸣 that resonates with many Russians,
其中就有猎人格奥尔基·戈德列夫 like hunters Georgiy Goldyrev
和尤里·兹维克夫 and Yuri Zvekov.
汤好了
尤里正在准备汤 So Yuri's getting the soup
这是什么 尤里 Hey, what's this, Yuri?
闻着真香 看那里 Ah, it smells delicious! Ah, look at that!
鸭肉炖蘑菇
我们能喝点伏特加
你们午餐的时候都喝伏特加吗 Would you normally have vodka with your lunch?
这个时间喝酒有点早啊 Bit early in the day for that.
我觉得没进过森林或是捕过鱼
整天待在家里不出门的不能算是真男人
该去打猎了
为了证明你的价值
-老兄 你们觉得怎么样 -不错 - So, guys, what do you reckon? - All right.
我够资格在俄罗斯打猎了吗 Am I ready to hunt in Russia?
在这里 能打猎才是真男人 Out here, to hunt is to be a man.
与原始的大自然做较量 To take on nature in the raw.
我们需要从这里开始静静穿过树丛 We need to walk from here just through the woods very quietly
如果你看到猎物 and if you see one...
这里 这里有一个爪印 And that's where, that's where its paw would be.
他说这是一匹狼的脚印 He says this is the footprints of a volk! Of a wolf.
这是头猛兽 有50公斤重 Big animals! 50 kilos!
幸好你带了枪 尤里 Whoa, I'm quite glad you've got the gun, Yuri.
这时候恰巧也是猎熊季 But this also happens to be bear hunting season
人们经常能在这附近见到熊 and sightings here are apparently quite common.
我对猎熊这件事感觉非常不舒服 I'm pretty uncomfortable about this whole idea of bear hunting.
我不觉得熊对人类来说是一个真正的威胁 You know, I don't believe that the bears are a real threat to people
猎杀它们感觉不太对 and, you know, it doesn't seem right to hunt them.
但是这里的人习惯了这么做 所以 But...I mean, the fact is, that's what people do, so...
尤里和格奥尔基很快发现了点什么 Yuri and Georgiy soon
不是熊 而是一头麋鹿 spot the tracks not of a bear, but of an elk.
如果我是一个人 只要一个小时就能逮到它
因为我们人太多 弄出的动静太大 Because there's so many of us, we're making too much noise,
他觉得我们今天应该没办法逮到什么 he thinks it's unlikely we'll get one.
你想开一枪试试吗
但他们建议我可以试试他们的猎枪 But they're suggesting that maybe I'd like to experience
看看打一枪是啥感觉 what it's like to fire one of their guns.
这是你的枪对吧 尤里 So this is yours, Yuri, yeah?
这是什么 这把枪是什么型号 What is this, what is this weapon?
老虎枪
看着像卡拉什 Looks like a Kalash...
没错 卡拉什尼科夫步枪
打开保险栓 推到一边 然后就好了
弄好了 所以现在 And there it goes. So now there is a...
保险栓已经打开 So now the safety catch is off...
枪管里有一枚子弹 枪已经解锁了 And there's a bullet in the barrel, so now this gun is live. OK.
这样吗 So like this?
天哪 好大的声音 God, that is noisy.
有一点后座力 但是噪音... There was a bit of recoil but it was the noise that really...wow,
我真的耳鸣了 my ears are really ringing.
你射击架势很正确 跟我们一样
老天爷 Jesus Christ.
真的好响啊 That is really loud!
虽然什么也没打到 Despite not bagging anything,
但我渐渐领略到了传统俄罗斯的风貌 I felt I was really getting a feel for old Russia.
在雪地中跋涉了整整一天后 And, after a hard day in the snow,
我准备享受下最后一项活动 I had one last treat in store...
一次被称为"班亚"的传统俄罗斯桑拿浴 A traditional Russian sauna called a banya.
打猎的生活方式跟男子气概相关 The hunting lifestyle is all about masculinity,
于是我想知道这些人 so I wanted to know what these guys
对于俄罗斯最近禁止同性恋宣传的法律 make of a new Russian law banning
是什么态度 gay propaganda.
英国以及西方国家 I mean, the big debate in Britain and in the West
最大的争论是关于政府通过的新同性恋法案 has been about this law, this gay law, that they've introduced,
就是禁止宣传同性恋的法案 you know the gay propaganda law.
你们怎样看待 What do you think of that?
我觉得这个法案很好 非常正确
这种事在俄罗斯是不被接受的
是吗 就没有什么不对吗 Really? Nothing wrong with it?
你能理解为什么西方国家的人 Can you understand why people in the West,
因为这事觉得生气和愤慨 they kind of, you know, get angry and upset,
认为人民受到了压迫吗 feel that people are being oppressed, you know?
我认为 要是我儿子看到了那种宣传
我会觉得很恶心
他不应该看到那种宣传
我觉得这是人的心理疾病
说说都觉得恶心
俄罗斯的文化非常大男子主义 Russia's such a macho culture.
但考虑下这种的桑拿浴 桦条抽打 But then you think of the kind of saunas, the birch whipping,
勾肩搭背 互相熊抱 the, I don't know, the backslapping and the hugging.
这都是很亲密的行为 And it's really kind of intimate
所以我想这也许就是 and I wonder whether that's not the kind of root
他们对同性恋深恶痛绝的原因 of this really profound homophobia that seems to be here.
如果你 That, you know, if you're...
如果你那样崇拜男子气概 if you celebrate manliness that much
那么同性恋就成为 then homosexuality becomes, I suppose,
一种真正的威胁 you know, a real threat.
传统俄罗斯也许不认可同性恋权益 Old Russia might have trouble with issues like gay rights,
但是新俄罗斯 在圣彼得堡这样的地方 but new Russia, in places like St Petersburg,
则有改变的迹象 there are signs of change.
在这里 俄罗斯同性恋人士反抗 Here, gay Russians are fighting back against old values
压迫人心的旧观念 that many see as repressive.
新的法律规定 So the new law states that
如果你被发现对未成年人进行 if you're found to be pushing gay propaganda towards minors
可能影响他们心理 生理及精神发育的 that could affect their mental, physical
同性恋宣传 or spiritual development,
你会被罚款50万卢布 约合1万英镑 you could be fined 500,000 roubles, which is about 10,000 pounds.
今晚 圣彼得堡刚好有一个节庆活动 Tonight, there happens to be a festival in St Petersburg
叫做同性恋节 这是个公开活动 called Queerfest, which is a public event,
并非地下活动 it's not happening underground,
所以我很好奇 想去一探究竟 so I'm intrigued to see what's going on!
在俄罗斯作为同性恋并不违法 It's not illegal to be gay in Russia,
但这里仍然是一个非常反同性恋的社会 but this is still a very homophobic society.
这在伦敦 曼彻斯特 This is quite normal for London, Manchester,
英国的任何地方都很常见 anywhere in Britain.
不同就在于 在这里 The difference is that here,
主流人士不希望它继续进行 the majority of people don't want it to go on.
尽管迎来冬奥会 With the Winter Olympics, though,
国内政治问题突然被推上国际舞台 domestic politics is suddenly being thrust onto a world stage.
关于西方国家的人们说的 What about people in the West who are saying
应该联合抵制冬奥会 that the Winter Olympics should be boycotted,
运动员不应该来这里比赛 people shouldn't come and perform here?
你怎样看待人们持有的立场 What do you think about the stance that people are taking?
这是个好问题 That's a great question.
我认为奥林匹克是一个非常好的平台 I think Olympics is going to be a great, wonderful platform
利用它来呼吁争取人权 for speaking out for human rights,
同性双性及变性者的人权 for LGBT rights,
呼吁多样化等等的平台 for diversity and so forth.
全世界都瞩目于此 The world will be watching.
而冬奥会是普金最得意的项目 And Olympics is Putin's pet project,
他希望它举办成功 he wants it to go well.
我会召集人们来这里 So I would call on people to come here,
比如赞助商 比赛参与者或运动员 sponsors, games participants, athletes,
我会大声呼吁 and speak out.
这样俄罗斯公众才会知道 That way the Russian public will hear
现在发生着很多侵犯 about the violations of LGBT rights
同性恋 双性恋和变性者权益的事 that are happening.
和塔吉克斯坦的经济移民一样 Just like the economic migrants from Tajikistan,
同性恋权益者让我意识到 gay rights activists reminded me
新俄罗斯仍然留有旧俄罗斯的影子 that new Russia is still only just emerging from its past.
然而有些事情永远都不会改变 Some things, though, never change.
在圣彼得堡有一个晚间仪式 In St Petersburg, there's an evening ritual
已经持续举行了数十年 that's been going on for decades.
晚上 船只和涅瓦河控制着这座城市 At night, ships and the River Neva take control of the city.
每座桥都要被升起 道路被截断 Every bridge has to be lifted, cutting off the roads.
还有一分钟 一分钟倒数 One minute. One minute to countdown.
-是这个按钮吗 -不是 - Is this the button? - No. No.
不是 那是哪个按钮 马克西姆 No. Which is the button, Maksim?
这个按钮是做什么的 What's this one?
这是紧急停止按钮
我要出去拦停桥上的交通 什么都别碰
好的 没问题 Yes. OK.
今晚 仅此一晚 我来当班 Tonight, for one night only, I'm in charge.
所有的人都出去拦停交通 So all the chaps that work here have left to stop the traffic
我被留在这里控制整块面板的按钮 and I've been put in control of a panel of buttons.
他们叫我不要碰任何东西 And I've been told not to press anything.
每年有6千万公吨的货物 60 million tonnes of trade moves through
要经过圣彼得堡的口岸 the port of St Petersburg every year.
到了晚上 汽车只能屈居次位 At night, cars take second place
而被堵在另一边岸上的人们 and anyone caught on the wrong side of the river
都要等上很久 can be in for a long wait.
看 没有车辆了 Look, the traffic's gone.
打开桥 我会闭上眼睛假装什么都没看见
还不行 还不能按 不 不 Not yet. Not yet. No, no, no, no, no, no.
还没好 我时刻准备着 Not yet. I'm poised and ready.
现在吗 Now?
-不行不行 一... -不行 - No. No. No. No. One... - No.
-快下桥 -按吧 - Get off the bridge! - Go.
按 一 二 三 Go! One, two, three.
好了 桥升起来了 And here it goes, the bridge is going up!
天哪 看看被堵在另一边的人们 Oh, dear, look at all the people trapped at the other end.
看看这里的人群 他们时间没算好啊 Look at this lot. They've timed it very badly
现在他们被堵在河这边了 and now they're trapped on this side of the river.
看这里堵的 Look at the traffic!
圣彼得堡也能堵的像高峰时的伦敦一样 This is like peak time London chaos in St Petersburg.
因为一旦涅瓦河全线通航 And that's because when the river's in full flow,
所有车辆行人必须原地等待 everything else comes to a standstill.
准备扬帆起航的货船中就有桑达尔号 One of the cargo ships waiting to set sail is the Sandal.
-你好 瓦莱里 -你好 - Hello, Valery. - Hello.
-船长大人 -是的 - Captain of the ship! - Yeah.
你来带路吧 Lead the way.
离开船还一个小时 我受邀上船逛逛 Just an hour before leaving, I was offered a brisk tour.
这里是我们的货舱 This is our hold, yeah.
你能闻到木屑的味道 真的 You can smell the woodchip, actually.
-很好闻 -这是货船 装木屑的 - It smells lovely. - Woodchip's here. This is the cargo.
-这就是木屑 -是的 - And this is it? - Yes, this is it.
-这是从... -木屑上掉下来的 - This is what comes from - Woodchips
从俄罗斯中部运过来的 From the centre of Russia
然后被发往芬兰用作生物燃料 and is taken to Finland to be used for biofuel.
是的 没错 生物燃料 Yeah, yeah, yeah, for biofuel, yes. Yeah.
这船1500吨的木屑和原木 In a few days, this hold will be full with 1,500 tonnes of woodchips and logs
在几天内就会运抵芬兰 destined for Finland
用作发电的燃料 to be used to generate electricity.
我该下船了 否则成了偷渡者了 I'd better get off cos I don't want to be a stowaway.
-不留你了 -我还有很多地方要去 - OK, yeah. - I've still got a long way to go
你们去哪儿我都不能跟着了 and I don't want to end up wherever it is you're going.
-就是来做个客 不要偷渡 -对的 - Want to make a guest here, not a stowaway, yeah. - Yes.
谢谢你船长 Thank you very much, sir.
-不客气 -一路顺风 - Thank you. - Bon voyage.
晚安 小哥们 Good night, fellas!
如果这座城市是俄罗斯通往西方的大门 If this city is Russia's gateway to the west,
那涅瓦河就是它的经济命脉 the River Neva is its economic artery.
上万吨的货船安静地顺流而下 Thousands of tonnes of cargo silently sail down the river
驶往欧洲甚至更远的地方 to be transported across Europe and beyond.
这是资本主义俄罗斯走向世界的又一个标志 Another reminder of capitalist Russia taking to the world stage.
♪我已厌倦哭泣♪ ♪Well, I'm so tired of crying♪
♪却只能再踏征程♪ ♪But I'm out on the road again♪
♪我已厌倦...♪ ♪Well, I'm so tired of...♪
随着我和安妮塔旅程的推进 As Anita and I continued our journeys,
我们越来越发现俄国是如此的广袤 we were both discovering just how incredibly vast Russia really is.
我们这一路开了很久了 We've been on the road for just so long.
我必须要喘口气 I've had to take a break from the driving
要我说 真是累人啊 because it is gruelling, let me tell you.
俄罗斯横跨十个时区 Ten time-zones wide,
是世界上最大的国家 Russia is the world's biggest country.
光凭这些把国土 Just building the roads
连接起来的四通八达的公路 that knit this continental-scale nation together
就是一项不朽的功绩 is a monumental achievement.
♪再踏征程♪ ♪Out on the road again.♪
过去的两周 我一直疾行赶路 Just over two weeks into my journey and I'm in a rush,
因为任何一个懂点军事知识的人 because anyone who's anyone in the military business
都不会错过下塔吉尔 is heading to the small industrial town of Nizhniy Tagil,
一座以坦克制造业闻名的工业重镇 famous for its tank-making prowess.
强大的军事力量是旧俄罗斯的象征 Military might epitomised old Russia
时至今日 在后共产主义的世界 and today, in a post-Communist world,
俄国的军火生意依然十分火爆 its arms business is still doing pretty well.
欢迎来到俄罗斯年度武器博览会
俄国也许不复当年之勇 Russia may have lost its super-power status,
但它仍然是世界上第二大的武器出口国 but it's still the second biggest weapons exporter on the planet.
如果你想买点大件 那这里再合适不过 If you're looking to buy big, this is the place to be -
俄罗斯武器年度博览会 Russia's annual arms expo,
在这里每台大型杀伤性武器 where it seems every machine capable of causing death and destruction
都是明码标价的 is available at a price.
难以置信的是 我们拿到了无限通行权 Unbelievably, we've been given an access-all-areas pass.
今天好东西都秀出来了 They've got all the toys out today.
两栖坦克 Swimming tanks.
2012年 俄罗斯的军火工业 In 2012, the Russian arms industry was worth
创造了超过八十亿英镑[约八百亿人民币]的出口额 more than 8 billion pounds in exports alone,
仅次于美国 second only to the United States.
壮观的场面能轻易震撼你的内心 It's really easy to get caught up in the spectacle
让你忘记了这些武器原本是 and forget that ultimately, these weapons are designed
用于杀戮和制造恐怖的 to wreak carnage and horror.
西方国家非常担忧俄罗斯军火业的一些主顾 We in the west are rather uneasy about some of Russia's customers.
包括阿尔及利亚和阿萨德统领的叙利亚 They include Algeria and Assad's Syria.
可以买一架无人机 Maybe a little drone.
非常好用 Always handy.
我想看看是谁在买什么样的武器 I was keen to find out who was here and what they were buying.
先生 您打哪儿来 Where are you from, sir?
访客们都很机警 The visitors, though, were a bit cagey.
-哪里 -这可不行 - Where? - Oh, no, no, no.
对不起 我没有被授权接受访问 I am not authorised to give you an interview, please.
还是谢谢你 没事的 我理解 Thank you. Oh, OK. No, no, no, fair enough.
打扰 请问您从哪儿来 Excuse me, where are you from?
法国 France.
您想...您想买点啥呢 What are you...what are you looking to buy, huh?
-无可奉告 -无可奉告 -是的 - I don't want to talk. - You don't want to talk? - No.
-就这么定了 -打扰了 先生 - Yeah. Ah, OK. - Excuse me, sir.
您从哪里来 Where are you from?
不好意思 Excuse us.
就聊几句 几句而已 No, he...just one short interview, a little chat!
看样子这人是个大主顾 Looks like he's spending the serious money.
他们对他毕恭毕敬 They're taking him very seriously.
为了突出这次会展的重要性 To underline the importance of this business,
坊间传言俄罗斯的二把手 the second most powerful man in Russia
将会莅临现场 was rumoured to be making a visit.
气氛开始紧张起来 因为俄罗斯总理 It's all a little bit on edge because the Russian prime minister
德米特里·梅德韦杰夫马上要来了 Dmitry Medvedev is supposed to be coming here.
一时间 我发觉自己和俄罗斯总理 For a brief moment, I found myself brushing shoulders
擦肩而过 with the Russian prime minister.
但貌似他把目光停留在 But it seemed he only had eyes
型号为MQ-9的无人战斗机上 for the MQ-9 unmanned aerial combat vehicle.
这就是生活 Such is life.
♪天啊 我简直不敢相信♪ ♪Oh, my God, I don't believe it♪
♪我从未如此的背井离乡♪ ♪I've never been this far away from home♪
♪天啊 我简直不敢相信♪ ♪Oh, my God, I don't believe it♪
♪我从未如此的背井离乡♪ ♪I've never been this far away from home...♪
当贾斯汀在玩打仗游戏时 While Justin was playing soldiers,
斯维亚托泽罗 彼得罗扎沃茨克 摩尔曼斯克
我继续北上 深入现代俄罗斯 I was continuing my journey north into new Russia.
圣彼得堡
北极圈
离开圣彼得堡 Leaving St Petersburg,
我正前往彼得罗扎沃茨克 I was heading towards the town of Petrozavodsk...
彼得罗扎沃茨克
圣彼得堡
北极圈
我的最终目的地是摩尔曼斯克 Before continuing to my ultimate destination of Murmansk
彼得罗扎沃茨克
北极圈最大的城市 the largest city within the Arctic Circle
摩尔曼斯克
也是俄罗斯新兴的经济前沿地 and Russia's new economic frontier.
窗外的风景在变化 气温也越来越低 The landscape was changing and getting much, much colder.
路边的风景越来越荒凉了 Now things are getting really wild now.
我们现在被高大的树林包围了 We're just surrounded by forests, high trees.
森林里都有什么 有狼吗 Who lives in the woods? There's wolves.
狼和一些动物 一些野兽 Wolves and some animals, wild animals.
野兽 有熊吗 Wild animals. Bears?
熊 Bears?
-我不会说每种动物的名字 -熊 好的 - I don't know each names of animals. - Bear. Oh, OK. OK.
我只会说狼 I know just wolf.
-熊呀 你肯定知道吧 -知道知道 -Bear? You must know bear? -Ah, yes, yes.
拼作B-E-E-R B, E, E, R.
-是B-E-A-R -是的 是A - B, E, A, R. - Ah, yes, it's an A.
-beer是啤酒 喝的啤酒 -是的 是AR - B, E, E, R is beer. - Yes, yes. A, R.
虽然我正在驶向新兴的经济前沿城市 I might be heading to a new economic frontier,
但随着向北深入 我忍不住停下车 but since I was going north, I couldn't resist stopping off
去尝试一种古老习俗 to experience one very old tradition.
马克西姆 很高兴见到你 Maksim, pleased to meet you.
-我是安妮塔 -我也很高兴 - Anita. - And you.
-你好吗 -我们挺好的 - How are you? How are you? - OK. We are pretty good.
瞧瞧这些美丽的小生物 它叫什么 Look at these beautiful creatures! So what's this one's name?
-伍基 -伍基 - Wookie. - Wookie?
-伍基 -伍基 伍基 - Wookie. - Wookie! Wookie.
俄罗斯人利用爱斯基摩犬有多长历史了 How many years have Russians used huskies?
在北方古时候
狗就用于捕熊
过去狗拉雪橇是唯一的交通工具
别怕 它们不咬人
这样对吗 This is OK?
我不怕 不怕 I'm not afraid. I'm not afraid.
我唯一了解狗狗的一点 Do you know what, the one thing I know about dogs
就是它们能嗅出你的恐惧 is they sniff fear.
是的 特瑞莎 特瑞莎 这边 Yes. Trisha! Trisha! This way! Oh!
来 把头钻进去 Come on, put your, put your face in there.
几周时间 In a few weeks' time,
这些狗狗就要开始拉雪橇了 these dogs will be pulling sleds through the snow,
但马克西姆必须保证 but Maksim needs to keep them fit and trained
它们全年都训练有素 all year round.
好的 安全第一 Yep, safety first.
你得戴头盔 健康又安全
戴好头盔 因为... Get the helmet on, cos this...
当然马克西姆 我也想保证安全 No problem, Maksim, I want to be safe.
好了 我该怎么做 Right, what do I do?
不会很难吧 肯定不会 This can't be that difficult, can it? Surely not.
-脚踩这 -好的 按这个 好了吗 - Your foot. - Yes, press that. Ready?
走起 Here we go.
别急 我们靠得很近啊 Oh! Yeah, steady on! We're very close here.
你准备好了吗 Are you ready? I'm...
-好了 -我也好了 走起 - Ready. - I'm ready! Let's do it!
好嘞 All right!
冲啊冲啊冲啊 Allez, allez, allez!
走起 冲啊狗狗们 冲啊冲 Here we go! Come on, doggies, mush, mush!
这是我坐过最快的 Whoa! This is the fastest I've gone yet!
向前冲 Go for it!
继续 冲啊冲啊 Go on, allez, allez, allez!
好嘞 All right!
♪上帝啊 赐我一辆奔驰车吧♪ ♪Oh, Lord, won't you buy me a Mercedes Benz?♪
♪我朋友都在开保时捷 我必须要跟上大流♪ ♪My friends all drive Porches, I must make amends♪
♪我一生都勤勤恳恳♪ ♪Worked hard all my lifetime♪
♪从不依靠朋友♪ ♪No help from my friends♪
♪上帝啊 赐我一辆奔驰车吧♪ ♪Oh, Lord, won't you buy me a Mercedes Benz?♪
军火交易结束 我继续深入传统的俄罗斯 Arms fair over and I'm heading ever further into old Russia.
下塔吉尔
离开下塔吉尔后 From Nizhniy Tagil,
我开着可靠的吉普车前往附近的叶卡捷琳堡 my trusty Jeep and I have made the short hop to Yekaterinburg,
叶卡捷琳堡
乌拉尔山脉中最大的城市 the biggest city in the Urals.
♪上帝啊 赐我一辆奔驰车吧♪ ♪Oh, Lord, won't you buy me a Mercedes Benz?♪
叶卡捷琳堡是个坚韧不拔的城市 Yekaterinburg is a tough city.
1918年 苏联红军为了巩固革命成果 In 1918, the Russian royal family was executed here
在此处死了俄罗斯皇室成员 by the Red Army as they fought to consolidate the revolution.
但这些墓碑是为了纪念稍晚些的流血事件 But these graves are monuments to a more recent bloodshed,
在处死皇室的70年之后 when powerful gangs emerged 70 years later
共产政府倒台 然后强大的黑帮逐渐出现 after the Communists had fallen.
我从没见过给著名罪犯立纪念碑的 I've never seen monuments like that to known criminals.
这三人是叶卡捷琳堡当地 These three guys were some of the leaders of a violent gang
一个暴力黑帮的头目 based here in Yekaterinburg
这个黑帮引发了一场残忍的战争 a gang that waged a murderous war
使这座城市在俄罗斯被暴力笼罩时 that made this city the most violent city in Russia
成了其中最为暴力的城市 at a time when Russia was consumed by violence.
90年代的的黑帮老大 The gang leaders of the 1990s
好像直到死后也喜欢前簇后拥 still seem to enjoy protection, even in death.
强大的瓦勒马斯帮老大亚历山大·赫巴罗夫 The boss of the powerful Uralmash gang, Alexander Khabarov,
也葬在此地 is buried here,
我们刚开始拍摄 and no sooner had we started filming
两个身材魁梧的男子从阴影中现身 than two burly men appeared from the shadows.
好像有人来了 I think we've got some company on...
什么 抱歉 我说英语 Huh? Sorry, I speak only... I speak English.
你们干什么要摄像
谁允许你们摄像了
抱歉 我听不懂 I'm sorry, I don't understand.
谁允许你拍摄赫巴罗夫了
我们不能拍这些墓碑吗 Are we not allowed to film these graves?
我是俄罗斯人 说俄语
我们能不能就拍点照片 Can we just stop and get some pictures?
就拍一点行吗 We just get some shots?
说了不准拍
不准拍
不能拍 给我看你们的证件
好好 他说不行 不准拍 OK, OK. He's saying no, don't film.
他说我们不能拍纪念碑 He's saying we can't film the monuments.
很显然 拍摄纪念碑有点敏感 Clearly there's a bit of sensitivity associated with filming them.
我完全不懂俄语 但很明显 Obviously I don't speak Russian but it's fairly clear
他们是要我们离开墓地 that he's telling us we have to leave the cemetery.
拍摄纪念碑会惹麻烦 That there was a issue with filming them.
我完全不懂你在说什么
如今的叶卡捷琳堡是个更平静的地方 Today, Yekaterinburg is a calmer place,
但骨子里仍有强烈的独立精神 but it still exerts a strongly independent spirit.
这里是叶卡捷琳堡市政厅 This place is the Yekaterinburg Town Hall.
而且我将有幸采访这里的市长 And with any luck, I've got an interview with the mayor!
好像摄像师允许进入 So the cameraman's allowed in
但我似乎得呆在外面 but I apparently have to stay out here.
去年 当地一位叫做叶夫根尼·罗伊兹曼的 Last year, an independent candidate,
无党派候选人 local man Yevgeny Roizman,
意外的战胜了 won a surprise victory
弗拉基米尔·普京的俄罗斯统一党 over Vladimir Putin's United Russia.
叶夫根尼 我是来自BBC的贾斯汀 Yevgeny, Justin from the BBC.
非常感谢你能接见我 Thank you very much for seeing me.
过去的几年中他不断的被问到 Over the past years he's continually being asked
他是否和九十年代的犯罪黑帮有关系 if he had links with the criminal gangs of the '90s,
这是他极力否认的一点 something he has always vigorously denied.
我私底下认识其中的很多人
我是在瓦勒马斯出生并且长大的
仅仅因为某个人不畏惧那些暴徒
不能就认定他们是一伙的 你明白吗
罗伊兹曼是当地人的英雄 Roizman is something of a local hero.
没有其他城市敢在选举上与首都意见对立 Few other cities have dared to vote against Moscow's wishes.
您认为您此次竞选成功是否意味着 To what extent do you think your victory kind of suggests
政府可以变得更加民主 that there is a possibility of a more kind of democratic form of government?
人们是这么认为的
我必须承认 我的当选是政府默许的
否则就算得票数第一也不可能赢得选举
莫斯科在当时并没有介入
他们允许我胜选
罗伊兹曼被视作俄罗斯新民主政权下 Roizman has been hailed as an independent voice
一种独立的声音 in a new democratic Russia.
不过这对于俄罗斯其他城市来说 But whether this really is the beginning of
是否真的是一个更加民主的时代的开端 a more democratic era for the rest of Russia
我们还得拭目以待 very much remains to be seen.
回到奢华的装甲车上 我继续向北 Back in my luxury oligarch tank, I'm still heading north,
一路向北 a long way north.
北极圈在哪 你看一下 Where is the Arctic Circle? Have a look on...
我不知道 I don't know.
-你不知道吗 -我不知道 - You don't know? - I don't know.
好吧 那怎么才能找到北极圈标志 Well, how are we gonna find it?
路上就能看见 We can see from the road.
我们得注意看外面的路牌 We just have to keep an eye out for a sign?
彼得罗扎沃茨克
距离彼得罗扎沃茨克450公里的地方 450 miles from Petrozavodsk,
彼得罗扎沃茨克
我将要去到波利亚尔内耶佐里 I was aiming to reach Polyarnye Zori
北极圈
并且去见一些极北地区的企业家 and some very northern entrepreneurs.
波利亚尔内耶佐里
但首先我们得穿越北极圈 But first we had to cross the Arctic Circle.
我非常高兴 塞奇 I'm excited, Sergei.
这将是我这辈子到过的最北边的地方了 This is gonna be the furthest north I've ever been in my life.
这么远...我兴奋极了 你知道吗 So far... I'm excited. Me. Excited.
-兴奋 -可不是嘛 - Excited... - Oh, yeah.
-因为我们要去到北极圈了 -开心 -Because we're going to the Arctic Circle. - Excited.
开心 我很开心 Excited. I am excited.
你看 我这么开心 因为 Look, excited, happy, because...
我要去北极圈啦 穿越北极圈 Ah. ..I'm going to the Arctic Circle, crossing the Arctic Circle.
我明白了 OK, I get.
我将要去到我人生中最北面的地方 I'm going further north than I've ever been in my life.
那是我到过最最最北的地方 The north, northernmost point I've ever been, yes?
-对 我也是 -你也是吗 - Yes, yes, me too. - You too?
你的兴奋太俄式了 懒洋洋的 Yes. I think you're Russian excited, laid back.
那里就是了 塞奇 北极圈 There it is, Sergei, the Arctic Circle!
这真是典型的俄国人反应 That's a Russian reaction.
北 极 圈
最终 深入到冰冷的郊区之后 At last, deep within the icy countryside
我抵达了我的目的地 I arrive at my destination -
用着现代的方法经营着传统的事业 a very modern take on a very traditional business.
这里有座热气腾腾湖并且里面充满了一种 Here was a steaming lake packed with fish that are normally
平常只在千里之外的南方才有的鱼 only found in waters thousands of miles to the south.
-先生您好 -你好 - Hello, sir! - Hello.
-安妮塔 -塞奇 - Anita. - Sergei.
很高兴见到你 塞奇 Pleased to meet you, Sergei.
我的天啊 这条鱼可真大 Oh, my Lord, that is one big fish.
我能看到水面在冒蒸汽 塞奇 I can see it steaming, Sergei.
这太神奇了 It's very mysterious.
这里水有多热 How warm is this water?
大概九或十 Nine, ten.
-有十摄氏度吗 -是的 - Ten degrees Centigrade? - Yeah.
非常暖和了 我们看到那边山上还积着雪 Pretty warm cos we've got snow on the mountains up there
而且你看这雾气 and you can see the fog.
原来是因为附近有一个当地的核电站 It turns out that there's a local nuclear power station nearby,
我们被严格禁止去那里拍摄 strictly off limits for our cameras.
这里水很热的原因是它被用来冷却反应堆 The water here is so warm because it's used to cool the reactors.
如果核电站没有启动的话 How cold would this water be
这里水温将会多低 if the power station wasn't here warming it up?
-无 -零吗 那就是零下咯 - Nil. - Zero to minus?
俄罗斯新一代企业家精神的另一种标志 It's another sign of Russia's new entrepreneurial spirit -
就是抓住任何地方的任何机会 taking advantage of any opportunity anywhere.
这个渔场养殖着鲟鱼 This fish farm breeds sturgeon,
一种珍贵的俄罗斯佳肴的来源 the source of a valuable Russian delicacy
鱼子酱 caviar.
食用这里的鱼出产的鱼子酱是否安全 Is it safe to eat the caviar from these fish?
这些鱼都是正常生长
我们每月都会进行检查
质量没有问题
鱼子是怎么取出来的 Where does the caviar come from?
看 这里有个小洞 Look. Oh, there's that little hole, look.
在这里
看 他们会将鱼子挤出来 There we go. And they milk it.
所以你只要给鲟鱼按摩 鱼子酱就出来了 So you massage the sturgeon and out comes the caviar.
随着对于鱼子酱这类奢侈品需求的增加 With demand for luxury goods like caviar increasing,
渔场主赚了不少钱并且计划扩张规模 the owners of the farm are doing well and are planning to expand.
核能鱼子酱 Nuclear caviar.
闻起来真棒 我能开动吗 Mmm, it smells great. It smells good. Shall we?
你是怎么吃的 让我们先尝一小口 How do you go for it? Shall we just taste a bit?
太美味了 It's delicious.
他们很小 They're like tiny,
有点像咸的小葡萄在我嘴中爆开 little grapes of saltiness just bursting in my mouth.
这就是他们的包装 And that's how they package it.
纳塔莉亚 这一罐多少钱 Natalya, how much would this cost? How much?
50美金 $50.
50美金 这么一点大概30英磅[300人民币] $50. About 30 pounds for that.
你知道吗 它值这个价因为太好吃了 And you know what, it's worth it because that is yummy.
真棒 Oh, yes, lovely!
我们终于到了 卡拉巴什 At last here we are, Karabash.
我觉得我好像永远都在开车 Ah, I feel like I've been driving forever!
当安妮塔前往探索俄罗斯新的经济前沿时 As Anita powers her way towards Russia's new economic frontier,
我这辆可靠的共产吉普还在继续行驶 my trusty Communist Jeep is still trundling on
穿过广袤的传统俄罗斯 through the vastness of old Russia -
这个资源丰富的中心地带 the resource-rich heartland
一直在推动着俄罗斯的经济发展 that has always fuelled so much of Russia's economy.
叶卡捷琳堡
从叶卡捷琳堡到卡拉巴什一共140公里 140 miles has taken me from Yekaterinburg to Karabash -
卡拉巴什
那里是俄罗斯众多环境严酷的工业城镇之一 one of Russia's many grim industrial towns.
天呐 太庞大了 Whoa! These are enormous!
这些肯定就是矿渣堆 Must be the slag heaps.
俄罗斯有着开采和处理 Russia has long mined and processed
其丰富的自然资源的悠久历史 its abundant natural resources.
此地区拥有丰富的石油 煤炭 铁矿 This area of the country is blessed with oil, coal and iron,
以及钻石和黄金资源 as well as diamonds and gold.
但这种富裕以牺牲俄罗斯环境为代价 But the riches have come at a price to Russia's environment.
这里就像在上演《疯狂麦克斯》 This is like Mad Max.
仿佛末日后一般的景象 It's, like, post-apocalyptic.
曾几何时 At one time,
这里被认为是 this was reckoned to be
整个地球上污染最严重的地区 the most polluted place on the entire planet.
我觉得现在看来污染也够严重的 It still looks pretty polluted to me.
卡拉巴什的炼铜厂 The copper plant here at Karabash
是典型的苏联旧工业时期遗产 is a typical legacy of old Soviet industry.
污染严重 效率低下 It is polluting and inefficient.
当时这样的战略性工业工厂 Back then, strategic industrial plants like this
都与世隔绝 were hidden from the world.
令人吃惊的是 他们竟然同意我们进去了 And astonishingly, they've agreed to let us in!
BBC电视台 BBC?
该戴上口罩了
戴上口罩 Put the mask on. Ah.
这是熔炉 Smelter.
-炼铜炉 -这是一个熔炉 - Copper smelter. - This is the smelter.
真的好臭 It really stinks!
对俄罗斯的资源导向型经济来说 Plants like this are still crucial
这类工厂仍然扮演着关键角色 to Russia's resource-based economy.
天呐 Whoa!
如今 为了把它们推销到全球市场 And today, in order to sell into world markets,
卡拉巴什的熔炼流程急需现代化 operations like the Karabash smelter need to modernise
说直白点 就是净化生产过程 and quite literally clean up their act.
但据工厂的总经理亚历山大·戈洛夫解释 But it's a slow process, as the plant's managing director
这将是个缓慢的过程 Aleksandr Golov explained.
看看这座工厂 I mean, looking at the plant,
我觉得它仍旧非常... it still looks pretty...
显得比较简陋 kind of pretty rough and ready.
有毒物质的排放量已经减少很多了
如今周边环境已经开始再生和修复
这是自然的复兴
亚历山大 你没开玩笑吧 Aleksandr, are you serious
这里已经开始自然再生了吗 there's a natural process of regeneration,
因为在我看来这里就像荒漠 because it looks like a desert?
你们拍摄的画面是以我们的工厂为背景的
其他方向就有森林了 而非荒漠
毋庸置疑 如今这类工厂的污染状况 Undoubtedly this factory is less polluting
比苏联时期减轻了许多 than it was in Soviet times,
但经历数十年遗留下来的污染物 but the legacy of decades of dirty production
需要很长时间才能完全治理 is going to take a long time to overcome.
我的任务是寻访俄罗斯的经济新前沿 As for me seeking out Russia's new economic frontier,
我就快到了 I'm nearly there.
我们马上就到了 最后几公里 We've nearly made it! The final few kilometres.
来个击掌 塞奇 摩尔曼斯克 Give me a high-five, Sergei. Murmansk!
索契
从索契出发经过三周时间 约4800公里路程 After three weeks and nearly 3,000 miles from Sochi,
塔甘罗格
我终于看到了最终目的地 I'm finally in sight of my ultimate destination -
莫斯科
圣彼得堡
北极圈内的城市 摩尔曼斯克 the Arctic city of Murmansk.
摩尔曼斯克
这个港口曾经是俄罗斯北方舰队的驻地 This port previously held strategic importance
具有重要的战略地位 as home to the Russian Northern Fleet,
但如今它正成为俄罗斯 but today it's becoming Russia's base
探索和开采更多自然资源的基地 to explore and exploit yet more natural resources.
这是最关键的因素 And this is what it's about.
摩尔曼斯克的地理位置就是关键所在 The location of this city, Murmansk, is crucial,
未来几个月里 6000吨的机械 because in a few months' time 6,000 tonnes of metal
将被运出海 开启搜索油气资源的旅程 will be taken from here out to sea to begin the search for gas and oil
这就是俄罗斯的下一个经济前沿 Russian's next frontier.
在这个仓库里 俄罗斯人正在进行 In this warehouse, the Russians are planning
他们颇受争议的北冰洋开采计划 their controversial assault on the Arctic.
在挪威人的帮助下 With Norwegian help,
他们正在制造钻井平台 these men are building drilling platforms
用以开采油气资源 for the oil and gas industry.
好大的烟雾 伊安 而且很热 是吧 Oh, it's so atmospheric in here, Jan! It's hot, isn't it?
是的 充满金属的气味 Yes, it's very metallic. Yeah.
外面某个地方蕴藏着石油和天然气 The oil and the gas that's out there, somewhere,
那些资源对挪威和俄罗斯意味着什么呢 what do those resources mean for Norway, for Russia?
对俄罗斯意义重大 因为它们储量庞大 For Russia it means a lot, because it's big resources
伊安·奥特·伦德 莱茵斯坦油业经理
可供应多年 满足约30年至40年 and it's going to last for many, many years, 30 or 40 years.
当然人们非常担心 Of course, people are very concerned about
开采工作会给这里的环境造成冲击 the impact all this drilling will have on the environment here.
我们是不是应该去别的地方寻找能源呢 Should we not be looking elsewhere for our energy?
我认为我们在未来很多年之内 In my opinion we need this oil and gas
需要这些油气资源 for many, many years
因为我们没有 because we don't have
足够的替代能源 因此... enough of this alternative energy, so that...
只要人们需要石油 As long as people need oil,
人们就会继续开采它 是吗 I guess people will keep drilling for it?
-正是如此 -是的 - That's how it is, yes. - Yeah. Yeah.
未来几年内 In the coming years,
北冰洋会为俄罗斯的经济 the Arctic could provide yet another boost
带来新一轮动力 to Russia's economy
而摩尔曼斯克本身 and Murmansk itself could be
会被推到21世纪新一轮采油潮的浪尖 on the brink of a new 21st century oil rush.
过去三周 我拜访了白手起家的地方企业家 Over the past three weeks, I've met local entrepreneurs starting businesses
以及对共产主义知之甚少的 and a whole new generation of Russians
新一代俄罗斯人 who have never known Communism.
我见到了未被开发的新财富所带来的希望 I've seen the promise of new, untapped wealth
见到了一个充满潜力的国家 and I've seen a country bursting with potential.
但对我而言 For me, though,
这次史诗般的自驾之旅已接近尾声 it's the end of my epic road trip.
结束了 我来到了旅程的尽头 That's it, I've gone as far as my road will take me
站在这里 我仿佛来到了一个新世界 and I've stopped here in what feels like a completely different world.
我完成这一路旅程 I've completed my leg of the journey,
很漫长的旅程 which was a very long journey,
但跟俄罗斯辽阔的版图相比 却很渺小 but in the grand scheme of this vast country, it was tiny.
远方是北冰洋和它丰富的油气资源所在 Out in that direction is the Arctic and its wealth of gas and oil
也是俄罗斯经济未来的潜力所在 and potentially the future of Russia's economy.
北冰洋的石油代表着俄罗斯的未来 Arctic oil might represent Russia's future,
但我要去的地方 将会勾起我们 but I'm travelling to a place that's a powerful reminder
对俄罗斯过去的无限回忆 that Russia's past is still very much alive.
我有点紧张 因为我们正驶向 I'm a bit nervous because we're headed towards a place
一个直到最近才在地图上标示出来的地方 that until recently, fairly recently, wasn't even... wasn't even on the maps.
它是众多隐秘城市中的一部分 It's one of the a network of closed cities
这些城市曾遍布俄罗斯 that used to... used to be across Russia
而这座城市是非常神秘 地位敏感 and this one was so secret and so sensitive
至今仍然对外封闭 that it remains closed to this day.
我现在正驶向奥焦尔斯克镇 I'm heading to the town of Ozyorsk.
几年前 外人只知道它的代号 Until a few years ago it was known only by its codename,
车里雅宾斯克65 Chelyabinsk-65.
只有手持有效证件的居民才允许进内 Only residents with the correct papers can get in.
外国人是禁止入内的 Foreigners like me are banned
因为这里曾是苏联原子武器计划的中枢 because this town was the heart of the Soviet atomic weapons programme.
这里就是检查点了 And here is the checkpoint.
也许我要下车去看一下 I might just get out and have a little look.
我要小心行事 I've got to be careful what I do
因为别人告诉我 because what I've been told is that if I...
如果我接近那些警卫 if I approach the guards
我有一半的可能性会被拘留 there's a 50/50 chance that they'll take me into custody.
也许要把我关上好几天才放出来 Then it could be days before they let me out.
在这里晃太久也许也不太好 Probably not wise to hang around too long.
我觉得逃过了一劫 I think I got away with that.
这里被防护得非常缜密的原因 The reason for such security
只有从河的对面才看得到 is only visible from across the lake.
秘密建造的马亚克核反应堆 The Mayak nuclear plant, built in total secrecy,
如今仍在运行着 is still in operation today.
虽然我无法入内一探究竟 While I can't go in,
但我和一名当地居民纳迪亚·库塔波娃 I've arranged to meet a local resident,
约定见面 Nadezhda Kutepova,
她毕生居住在这个小镇 who's lived in Chelyabinsk-65 all her life.
为什么他们封锁了这座城市 So what is the reason why they wanted the city to be closed,
在反应堆发生了什么 and what happens at the plant?
它建造于1948年 It was built in 1948
是苏联的第一颗原子弹的发源地 for creation of first Soviet atomic bomb.
用于核武器及用作核电站燃料的一种放射性元素
苏联第一颗原子弹所使用的钚 So the plutonium for Russia's first nuclear bomb
就是在这里生产的 was created here?
是的 Yeah.
"家庭成员都需要宣誓保密" 'Even family members were sworn to secrecy.'
那你爸爸告诉过你他是做什么的吗 So what did your father tell you that his job was?
当我问他的时候 他说 When I asked my father, he answered,
"我是做糖果包装纸的" 'I make paper for candies.'
-糖果包装纸 -是的 - Sweet wrappings? - Yeah. Mmm.
-他是这么告诉你的 -是的 - That's what he told you? - Yeah.
事实上 In fact,
他在为苏联的第一颗原子弹生产钚 he was making plutonium for Russia's first atomic bomb.
可是麻烦出现了 And there were problems.
这个反应堆的放射性事故劣迹斑斑 The plant has a grim history of radioactive accidents.
1957年 In 1957,
装着高辐射性放射废料的地下储存罐爆炸了 the underground tank with the high-level radioactive waste was exploded.
科学家们通常将这次事故 Usually, scientists compare this
和切尔诺贝利事故相提并论 with the Chernobyl Accident.
那这场事故发生时 So when the accident happened,
当局是否告诉了人们事故的真相 did the authorities tell people what had happened?
没有 很多人签了保护国家机密的文件 No. No. Many people signed papers about state secrets.
人们时至今日仍在担惊受怕着 People were afraid, and the people still are afraid.
此次之行让我感到 Coming to a place like this feels
我好像进入了俄罗斯的时间隧道 like I've entered a Russian time warp.
这里好像从冷战时期就什么都没有变过 It's as if nothing has changed since the Cold War days.
谁知道它究竟会不会改变呢 Who knows if it ever will?
伏尔加格勒
从索契一路走来6400公里 Nearly 4,000 miles from the town of Sochi,
陶里亚蒂
伏尔加格勒
我仍然想继续深入探索传统俄罗斯 I still wanted to explore deeper into old Russia.
彼尔姆
叶卡捷琳堡
车里雅宾斯克
但是我的时间快不够了 But my time was running out
而公路也走到了头 and so was the road.
三周过去了 After three weeks,
就算是苏联乌阿斯汽车也筋疲力尽了 even my Soviet UAZ was calling it a day.
走了这么远的路 After all these miles...
俄罗斯著名的泥土成为了我旅途的终结者 Russia's famous mud has seen to the end of my journey.
我本想爬到山顶眺望西伯利亚 I wanted to get up to that hilltop and look out across Siberia.
这次旅行我所经历的种种 After everything I've been through on this journey,
让我印象尤其深刻的是 my overwhelming impression of this country
旅途的艰难 is how difficult it is to travel
还有这片辽阔的土地 如此广袤的国家 and how vast it is. Such a big country.
也许这就是个恰当的结局 And...maybe this is a fitting end,
实话告诉你 cos I tell you what,
我现在真的真的很想回家 I really, really want to go home now.
这次漫长的三周旅行 It has been a very long three weeks
起点位于索契 since we left Sochi and the splendours of
那里举办了史上最昂贵的奥运会 the most expensive Olympics in history -
成为俄罗斯面向世界展示的橱窗 Russia's showcase to the world.
他们花了300亿英镑 合500亿美元 30 billion pounds. $50 billion they've spent.
从那时起 我们见证了这个神奇国度 Since then, we've seen two very different sides
截然不同的两面 to an incredible country.
正如奥运公园本身 Like the Olympic Park itself,
新兴的俄罗斯蓬勃散发着创造力和自信心 there's a new Russia out there exploding with inventiveness and confidence.
这是少数精英才有的特权 This is the privilege of an elite few.
这是现代的俄罗斯 This is modern Russia.
但真正的俄罗斯远比我们想象得广阔 But Russia is vast beyond comprehension
它背负着古旧的建筑和传统的态度 with an ageing infrastructure and attitudes
和国内回归过去独裁体制的倾向 that hark back to its old autocratic past.
显然 俄罗斯未来的路还有很长 It is clear it still has a long way to go.
对于我们来说 回家的时候到了 As for us, it was time to fly home.
你和这里都融为一体了 我都没认出来你 It's cos you blended in, I couldn't recognise you.
你都快成半个俄罗斯人了 You've gone native!
我简直脏死了 I'm absolutely filthy.
看看你 我是又脏又累 Look at you! I'm absolutely filthy and I am so knackered.
看看你 Oh, look at you!
你看上去真接地气 我是说好的那种 You look a real state. In the nicest way!
我有礼物给你 让你感受下我的旅程 I've got something for you. Give you a taste of my trip.
这是俄罗斯最好的鱼子酱之一 That is the finest, some of the finest Russian caviar.
这个礼物可真棒 That is genuinely a fantastic present.
核能鱼子酱 还是我自掏腰包给你买的 Nuclear caviar. I bought it with my own money as well.
-真的 -是啊 - Really? - Yeah.
-我告诉你我给你买什么了 -什么 - I'll tell you what I've got you. - Go on.
-啥都没买 -太难买了 是不 - Absolutely nothing. - It's been hard, hasn't it?
是啊 那里没什么可买的 Yeah, there was nothing there to buy!
-我们可以回家了吧 -快回去吧 - Shall we go home? - Let's go home now.
我们赶快离开这里吧 Please let's go home.